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Gary Mulkey

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Gary Mulkey last won the day on October 13

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About Gary Mulkey

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    http://www.mulkeyknives.com

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    Branson, Mo

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  1. James, I hope you don't mind a little constructive criticism. There are a couple of things that I would suggest. One: The tang should taper both ways from front to back. [Leave it a little wider & thicker in front.] This will aid in fitting a slotted guard to the tang. (I suggest getting a file guard to aid in establishing a good shoulder on the back of the ricasso.) Two: The choil or bottom of the ricasso needs to be parallel with the top of the blade. Most like the "Golden Mean" in relation to the length of the ricasso which means usually about 1/2"-5/8" front to back depending on the size of the blade.
  2. As I often do, I started a new project before finishing my last in order to have more than one going at a time. This one will be a mosaic dagger with an inlayed hilt. I don't know why but I started from both ends by turning out the pommel as well as starting to weld the Damascus. I'm going with a modified "W' mosaic pattern. The second pic here shows three layers of a 21 x 1 "W' sandwiched by multiple layers of 1080 & 15N20. This will get squared on the bias and then 4-wayed twice and tile cut (Ferry Flipped). The pommel here is a solid piece of 416 that I hollowed with a 5/8" drill bit and then turned on the lathe. I'm thinking of using a blackwood hilt with inlays but am still deciding on the style of inlay. I'm going to keep this one dark so I may blue or parkerize the handle fittings to an almost black finish with possibly some gold or silver inlay.
  3. That's where the fun begins.
  4. I got D-Guard No.2 rough forged. I still need to remove quite a bit of material but I like this one much better than my first. The 10" blade now has an overall length of 15". As you can see, I left room for adding a fileworked spacer in front of the ironwood. Probably a three pieced one. Once I have all of the guard ground to size, I will bend the top part 90 degrees to lay on top of the ironwood and grind off flush in order to butt up against the handle spacer. (The guard above the blade will be bent slightly forward after I get it ground to shape.)
  5. Sorry about the Chris. I'm not positive as to the name that it is sold under but the tool that I use is a 1/4" steel rod with a concave end that you chuck up in the drill press. You can get them for different sized pins.
  6. Chris, When I'm working with handle material like ivory I will either simply glue the pins (after grinding them with an 80 grit for extra glue surface) or use a head spinner depending on whether I want a flush surface or not.
  7. Tomorrow I'll cut this down to an appropriate size and then I'll have a pattern for forging a new guard.
  8. Change of direction. I got the integral D-guard shaped today and decided that it overpowered the blade so it's back to the drawing board. Hopefully I'll come up with another design tonight that will match the blade better.
  9. I didn't get much shop time today as I had several errands to take care of but did manage to get the guard rough forged. After it cools, I need to surface grind a portion of it to a flat surface before bending it. There's more material here than I need but I now have the lengths that I need so I'll probably grind the rest of it to size. (The soap stone lines on the anvil were my length gauges for various sections of the guard.)
  10. I drill the holes to leave a radius at the bottom of each cutout. It reduces the stress on the steel when you straighten. Rounding the tops helps blend the pattern. A canoe is simply a can that loads from one side rather than one end.
  11. I do it in a can or canoe. Is this the same for you?
  12. This guard is complicated enough that it's taking a good deal of engineering to go with the forging skills. I love it!
  13. I got a first look at the pattern in this one today. This is after a rough grind and quick etch. The blade is in the tempering oven as I post this. I started forging the D-Guard. I decided to use some stainless for the guard. I had a piece of 304 that had been laying around my shop for some time. This is the first time that I've tried forging it but it seemed to move easily enough. Hopefully I'll get the guard completed tomorrow:
  14. While you split it.
  15. Often a dark line that way indicates that it didn't weld all the way to the edge(s). The middle may be welded.