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Gary Mulkey

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Gary Mulkey last won the day on April 12

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About Gary Mulkey

  • Birthday 11/04/1947

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    Branson, Mo

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  1. Thanks, gentlemen. I'm still tweeking the process but for a first attempt, I feel satisfied. Chris--As you noticed, I didn't have much of a tang on this blade. The billet wasn't large enough to make much of an integral tang. Rather than shorten the blade I chose to weld additional tang material onto the stubby tang. This pattern has a lot of waste involved. I'm estimating that the finished blade is 10-20% of the original weight.
  2. I got the blade forged to profile and did the stock removal on the bevels. This will give you an idea of how the pattern changes by grinding into it:
  3. There are no suppliers of blade steel locally that I know of. I get mine from Kelly Cupples. http://www.hightemptools.com/steel.html
  4. It's a dreary, rainy day here today so I thought that I would just do some inside handle work. I'm waiting on the nickel silver for the fittings but got in some curly maple for the handle and thought why not get the inlay work done. The shield that you see laying on the handle is merely a steel template. The finish inlay material will be fine silver. (The blade was just H/T'ed & tempered.) I chose to do the inlay work for this one by hand. You can see one of my inlay chisels laying on top of the blade in the photo. It will be easier to chisel the inlay with the handle block being flat on two sides and then rounded. Should I have to deepen the inlay later that it won't be difficult. Once I get the handle completed, I plan on darkening the curly maple with some Aqua Fortis Reagent just to be traditional.
  5. If you are asking about handle material, I am going to use blackwood with 416 fittings.
  6. Thanks, Salem. I appreciate the insight & photos.
  7. Brian, I twisted at 13 layers after forging it to 1/2" x 1/2"
  8. Thanks, Dave. The twisting jig is a converted antique drill that I bought a while back.
  9. I didn't. I guess that not that many ever make either one and very few make both. I decided to give a Merovingian a try. This photo was after just a preliminary surface grind. I'll need to take a little more off the surface (you can still see some of the tack weld beads between layers), forge a blade profile and then do a stock removal of the bevels. Hopefully the best pattern is in the center of this billet.
  10. I probably have but that's another story. (grin)
  11. Every billet and every maker is unique but this was my inspiration: I can't say what mine will look like as this is my first attempt at a Merovingian pattern.
  12. 1080-15N20-1080-15N20-1080-15N20-15N20- 1080-1080- 15N20-15N20-1080-15N20-108015N20-1080
  13. Recently I've been interested in the difference between a Turkish Twist Damascus and a Merovingian. The difference is subtle but distinct. Here's some of my work on a Merovingian: What you see here is the initial billet with a minimum of surface grinding (If you look closely you can see part of the welding beads where I spot welded the layers together for forge welding). This is the pattern that you will see on the ricasso of the blade. I'm going to forge the profile of the blade and do a stock removal of the bevels which will show the beauty of the Merovingian. The pattern will change all the way down the bevel until it reaches the cutting edge. I started this with a 13 layer billet of 1080 & 15N20 with double layers of each in the center and single layers on the outside. abababbaabbababa.
  14. Pre- heat treat, rough ground & quick etch:
  15. I got in a good day of forging today while working on the Moran knife. Unfortunately my original Damascus billet developed a flaw. Though removable, it would have severely changed the pattern to do so. This being the case, I started on a new billet. I was a little dubious about the eventual carbon content of the first billet which had wrought iron layers so for this one I chose to use W2 & A36 (both steels that Moran was known to use in his Damascus). After a full day of forging I now have a 536 layer billet which is what Moran thought to be the ideal layer count. If I have calculated correctly, the billet will have no less than .75% carbon after migration which will work fine for me. Hopefully I'll get this one forged into a blade tomorrow.