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Gary Mulkey

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Everything posted by Gary Mulkey

  1. About a quarter of the tables were empty. Some because of covid, some for other reasons.
  2. Masks were required but not worn. Crowd size was minimal.
  3. After discussing it with a long time ABS Master I will be offering advanced classes where the student can pick the subject covered. If there is some part of your knifemaking skills that my 25 years of experience can help with then let me know. These will be one-on-one classes held at my home shop in Branson, MO and can be from 3 to 5 days in length.
  4. You may see a little Persian or even Egyptian influence in the blade profile. The hilt is all me. The steel is my latest cannister mosaic (1080 & 15N20). The handle is blackwood with ivory & 416 fittings. The overlay on the ivory butt cap is fine silver.
  5. Very nice. Congrats. The dagger shows a hamon. What is the steel and is the hamon planned? I use a lot of W series and have never h/t'ed one without a hamon forming.
  6. Yes. 416. Pommel is drilled & tapped.
  7. This is the first mono-steel Bowie that I've made in a while: Blade: W1 Handle: Stabilizing giraffe bone Fittings: 416
  8. Aug. 11, 2021 Gentry, AR Demonstrators: Lin Rhea MS Brion Tomberlin MS Steve Culver MS Ray Kirk MS Gary Mulkey Billy Helton JS Allen Newberry JS Paul Brown Phil Evans For more information on the demos or for a table at the knife show contact Allen Newberry.
  9. It's still early as I only have time for my one-on-one classes after Christmas. This year I will be offering three options: 1) intro--here you will complete a Damascus hunter. 3 days- $750 2) Journeyman-- Here you will learn what's needed to build the quillon dagger for master's testing-- $250/day 3) Advanced Damascus-- Here you'll learn some of my mosaic Damascus methods--$250/day Tuitions include basic materials. (Exotic materials like silver, ivory etc extra) To reserve a date in Jan/Feb/March requires a $100 nonr
  10. Those of you that know me, know that I love making the historical style of knife which usually means large. Recently however I accepted a commission to design & build a knife for a customer who has a collection of knives that are <5" OAL. For this I decided on a boot knife of random pattern damascus with a full tang which I left proud for some rope roll filework. The scales are blackwood with 416 bolsters. Not my typical post but I occasionally enjoy making something different. Let me know what you think.
  11. That's done in a cannister.
  12. It's been a while since I've posted anything so I thought that I'd show you one that I just finished for the Arkansas Show: The blade is a two pattern mosaic of 1080-15N20 & 1084 powder. The guard is a wheat twist made from four 1/4" round rods (hot blued). The handle is mastodon bark with 416 & damascus spacers.
  13. This one needs another 3-4 coats of finish on the wlnut scales and it will be ready to sharpen:
  14. I've now got all twenty domed pin heads made & in place. Next step is to file off any excess of the central 1/16" pin and to peen the remainderso as to attach the domed heads.
  15. Jaro, Bowie had the knife made for fighting/dueling and the offset handle kept his hand out of the way when slashing with the knife.
  16. The top & bottom of the tang are now silver plated and the scales & pins epoxied (AcraGlas) in place. Once I get the hollow handle pins cut to length and the scales sanded smooth the next step is the pommel wrap:
  17. This is number 3 but I have done other James Black knives as well. ( I'm getting very familiar with coffin handles.)
  18. I took another commission for this classic. Got the silver plating soldered to the blade: Silver plating the filework: The handle pins are 1/8" tubing. They will get a 1/16" pin to hold the domed pin heads. I will add the engraved escutcheons last so as not to scratch them. I got the handle scales attached tonight. I'll start with the silver pommel wrap tomorrow. Then it will be making the 20 domed pin heads.
  19. Sometime you need to reverse engineer things and design the knife around the steel. [I would guess that the bad weld resulted from too short of a soak time.]
  20. I've not had much success with rewelding. Were it me, I would use the larger piece for a blade and the smaller one for fittings.
  21. Since you're going to glue the pieces, something that can make it easier is to glue them to some heavy paper. This will hold them in place until you get them into the canoe and it burns off which will eliminate any oxygen inside the can as well.
  22. Geoff, I haven't spent much time here for a while and just saw this. I hope you don't mind me jumping in here. From what I see, you have nice tight joints with your pieces which is important. If you custom make a canoe to fit then the pieces can't move within the can and tack welding them won't be needed. With the arrangement that you have I would recommend that your first welding blows should be light hand blows on the edges. Once you are confident that all is welded then you can use heavier blows on the flat sides of the canoe. [One good tip is to use
  23. I am awaiting arrival of more steel before continuing with this project. This pattern wouldn't stand very well on it's own and needs to be alternated with another. I'll probably use some variation of a Crushed W. For the Fleur de Lis, I believe that I will need to make it from a W pattern rather than a simple layered damascus. Also, I will need to use a nickel steel powder for the background so as to show the profile of the Fleur better. I had hoped that the carbon steel powder that I used had enough difference in manganese content to do that but obviously I was mistaken.
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