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Gary Mulkey

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Everything posted by Gary Mulkey

  1. I started on the forge today but didn't last long as the summer heat & humidity convinced me to do other things. I opted for handle work and got my ivory handle cut out, slotted and one side checkered before calling it a day.
  2. The shop temperature was approaching 105 before I finished but I got the cannister welded today:
  3. All of the pieces are now in the canoe. I'll try to get the canoe capped (after a coat of white-out) and welded tomorrow.
  4. I didn't manage much shop time today but got the canoe started. Those of you who have taken my class will recognize what I'm doing here.
  5. Tiles cut and in annealing oven.
  6. Yes. It also added the wavy aspect to the lines.
  7. 4-way welded pattern (I'm still debating on whether or not to do another 4-way) Handle material
  8. The weather here was so hot & humid that I only managed a couple of hours of forge time today. This first photo shows three layers of 30 x 4 "W" pattern separated by multiple layers of both steels. This will give me two layers of 15N20 separated by one layer of 1080 between each of the three W layers. I didn't bother to trim them to length so you can see the back ends of them flaring out on the scrap end of the billet. Normally when preparing to square a billet on the bias I will forge it 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" square. This time in order to bend the added layers of the billet a little more just for effect I forged it 1" x 3" and then squeezed it on the bias in my squaring dies. [ I don't really know how much this will effect the pattern but should help.] Here's the billet squared on the bias (1" x 1") and ready to be cleaned up for a 4-way weld. I'm not positive and will etch the end after the 4-way weld to see what I have before making a decision, but I'm thinking that a second 4-way weld may be called for. Either way it will end up in a canoe for the final weld.
  9. As I'm waiting on a delivery before I can proceed with my rapier, I've started a new Bowie project. I'm needing something to place in the Best Bowie Knife competition at the AKA Show in Sept. so this hopefully will be my contribution to the competition. This is the start of a cannister mosaic which will eventually get a semi-checkered ivory hilt. I'm doing this one after work, a couple of hours at a time. Hope you enjoy the trip through it's progression.
  10. It seems that I've had so many different projects going now that I haven't had time to devote much to my rapier until today. I've finally gotten all of the wire basket bent & welded. It's still very rough and will require a lot of time grinding & polishing but I think that you can now call it a basket. While bending & welding the various round rods required for this basket hilt made me reflect back to a time when a glass blowing friend used to turn glass rods into pieces of art. This guard wasn't a whole lot different.
  11. Thanks, Joshua. I'm still amazed that I decided to take this on. Wish me luck as I'm not a swordsmth.
  12. I've had many other projects keeping me busy recently but finally found some time after work today to get started on the guard for this one. Getting this far shows me that I may need to shorten the ricasso some. Lots more wire to bend on this one.
  13. My classes for making mosaic damascus were so successful this year that I will be doing them again next winter. In addition to offering the two day/two student damascus classes, I have decided to make available some one-on-one classes as well. These will be advanced classes for experienced bladesmiths only. The main goal in these classes will be to instruct you in making knives like those of the famous 19th century makers. Since these classes will be personal tutelage type classes the length & subject matter can be varied to personal tastes. [Prices will be determined by the length of the class & cost of materials.] In each class you will complete (or at least close enough to complete at home by hand sanding) the 19th historic style knife of your choice. My schedule allows for up to 2 classes/month available in Jan, Feb, March & April. Possible classes to be offered for next winter include: 1) Making an authentic D-Guard Confederate Bowie-- 3 days 2) Making an authentic 19th century style straight guard Bowie (choice of different makers signature styles)--3 days 3) Making a quillon dagger with fluted & wire inlaid handle--5 days 4) Making a James Black style knife w/authentic hilt--5 days
  14. Blade--W1 Handle--Desert Ironwood Guard--300 layer Damascus w/ivory inlay & clam shell knuckle bow Fittings--416
  15. I thought some may be interested in my latest project so here's a look: 30" blade of 300 layer Damascus-- This is the heat treating jig that I used to help keep the blade straight during H/T. (It also works like the clay on a katana in that it keeps the spine from forming martensite in the quench.) Not shown here were several metal clips to hold the entire length tight against the middle of the blade. To give you an idea if where I'm going with this one, here's my first rough sketch of the hilt that I plan on making (I have already made several changes in it.) The fittings will be of 416 and the handle of blackwood.
  16. I've been wanting a better vice for my welding table for some time and just acquired this one yesterday. Love these old cast iron tools. I have no idea of the age of it but it is cast iron and has a grease zert which may tell you something. One side of the jaws shows some abuse but the worm is good and works very smoothly so I'm happy.
  17. There's still much to do yet on this one but all of the components are there now. I gave the blade a differential H/T which means there's a lot of etch & polish yet to do. As I've worked on this one the ivory has gotten soiled repeatedly. I've cleaned it many times and will need to again before giving it a final coat of polyurethane to insure a good surface.
  18. I think that you can now call it a dogbone. Now to make it a D-guard.
  19. Doug, I don't mean to hijack this thread but if you're needing an anvil, I have a 125 lb Trenton that I would part with.
  20. As I was asked how I make the domed pin heads hopefully this will show you. Please note that I am not recommending this method for everyone as it requires working very close to high speed moving parts. If you are not completely comfortable with doing this then I wouldn't recommend this method. tools needed: metal turning lathe (preferably a small one) tail stock with Jacob's chuck for lathe 1/16" drill bit small file (4" or 6" mill bastard) emery cloth jeweler's saw materials: 3/16" N/S round rod Center boring: Filing the end half round: Sand smooth and score the rod just behind the domed end with lathe tool just deep enough for the blade of the jeweler's saw to ride comfortably. Saw through with jeweler's saw. Always make extras as they are easy to lose and often some won't be perfectly center bored and you'll need to cull them.
  21. Once the polyurethane sealer coat dries this one will be ready to assemble. Next step is to make the 18 pin heads.
  22. Working the ivory: The pins that you see here are temporary & only there to hold everything in place while I shape the handle. The final assembly pins will be longer and will be peened over domed pin heads.
  23. I don't know if I'm experimenting more now. I am always trying to keep each one unique.
  24. I got the guard slotted & forged to shape this morning. It still needs to be tweeked a little but things are starting to take shape. My next step will be to start on the double beveled ivory scales and to make the domed pin heads.
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