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Gary Mulkey

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Everything posted by Gary Mulkey

  1. I haven't gotten in much shop time recently as I'm doing some one on one classes but I did manage to rough out the rest of the components:
  2. Thanks, Alan. I think that I like it better than the ivory/stag of the original.
  3. This project has been on the back burner for a while but I managed to get the ivory handle scales glued & pinned. I made a small change to the handle of this one as the spacer between the new & fossil ivory is now of both 416 & brass. Eventually it will get a fuller filed down the center of it (as will the oval guard). Everything is still very rough now as I decided to do all of the final shaping of the hilt on this one after being glued & pinned. I'll just need to be extra careful not to let the ivory get too hot when shaping it. [I've put off makin
  4. Looks good. Thanks for sharing.
  5. Starting on the hilt: (The stainless frame will get split to accept the tang after I get everything drilled to match.)
  6. It was a good day for making steel:
  7. Often when starting a new project I turn to the masters of the 19th century for inspiration. For my next I'm turning to the knives of John D. Chevalier of New York. As is often the case, I plan on making a few changes to the original design just to make it my own. With this one I plan on using damascus for the blade. I'm thinking about a wolf's tooth pattern (which is a variation of a ladder). For the two piece coffin shape handle scales I'm going to use some white ivory for the front. Instead of stag as on the back of the original, I'll use some mastodon bark. For the fittin
  8. Thanks, everyone for the kind words. I started this project with the idea of competing for "Best Fighter" at the Arkansas Show which has now been postponed until August. I'm trying to get a last minute table for The ICCE Show in Ft. Worth and am on the waiting list so we'll see. For those who followed the progress of this one, I hope you enjoyed the trip.
  9. First dry fit-up: There's still a full day of tweeking details but I'm getting close. By the time that I got here I had lost the good light for pictures so the quality is minimal. I'll get some better photos when it's completed.
  10. I've yet a good deal of sand & polish left to do on this guard but the knuckle bow is now ready for inlay. I decided to do a dimpled texture of either side of the inlay for effect. The ivory cabochon here will get a domed head pin in the center.
  11. My next step with this one is to do the final shaping, sand & polish of the guard in preparation for the ivory inlay. I'm still debating as to whether or not to add a little engraving/filework around the cabochon inlay.
  12. After spending a week teaching a class, I got enough shop time to get the silver wire inlaid in my ivory hilt. There's still a good bit of work left to do on the ivory as you can only do so much before the inlay. Once I get the final shaping done to the flutes I will sand & polish it before applying a gloss clear coat. This hilt has eight wire inlays which may seem like a high number but I wanted this handle so have a lot of silver for contrast.
  13. Thanks, Alan. I'm waiting on a different gauge silver wire for the handle inlay anyway so it's a good stopping point. I'll post more when I can.
  14. Though I spent much of my shop time getting ready for a class that I'm teaching tomorrow, I got the pommel made, drilled, and the knuckle bow bent to fit today. It's always a bit of a challenge to bend it exactly to fit and I heated & re-heated it several times before the end fit the hole in the pommel exactly right. As my class is reproducing "Bowie No. 1", it will be lengthy so I may not have the time to work more on this for a while.. I'll post more on this rapier when I can devote the time to it. If you
  15. Lot's of sand & polish left to do and I'm sure that I will need to bend it slightly to fit the hilt but the hilt now has a knuckle bow:
  16. I got the ivory fluted and slotted for a twisted wire inlay. I'm not satisfied with the first pommel that I made so I'll need to construct a new one. Then I'll need to forge a knuckle bow to shape and weld to one quillon of the guard. I'm planning on inlaying an ivory cabochon into the center of the knuckle bow but that will come later.
  17. It's been some time since I've posted here and I apologize for that. Since this isn't my normal project, I thought some here might be interested. I'm scheduled to do the Arkansas Knifemaker's Show next month and wanted something to enter into the "Best Fighter" competition so I'm making this to be my entry: This rapier blade is of a 336 layer damascus in a random pattern. The guard is of 416. The knuckle bow that you see here is also of 416 which will eventually get forged into a semi-circle, welded to one quillon and have an ivory cabochon inlaid into the center.
  18. I am going to make available some classes next winter. These will be 3 day (4 if needed) classes to construct a 19th century style Bowie with one-on-one instruction by me and held in my home shop in Branson, MO. During this class you will complete a historical Bowie to take home. Possible choices of knives would include Confederate D-guards, or recreations of some of the 19th century masters like William Butcher, Peter Rose or F.C. Goergen. I have possible dates available in January, February & March. Tuition runs $750 and includes all materials, supplies and
  19. Chris--this year's Central States has been called off due to Covid-19
  20. It was a little too hot to do any forging today but was a good day for checkering handles:
  21. I got my first real look at the pattern tonight. I decided to remove the ricasso from this one. I think it looks better without it. I'm still debating one what style of guard to give it. I have enough of the blade steel left to do either a guard or a butt cap. What do you think? Use it or make them from 416?
  22. Thanks, Alan. Hopefully it will turn out ok.
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