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Gary Mulkey

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Everything posted by Gary Mulkey

  1. Jon, Of the three steels mentioned 1075 would be the best for Damascus. I wouldn't recommend the other two. 1075 will not give you the contrast that you will get from 1080/1084 as it doesn't have as much Mn which is what gives you the dark etch. I would recommend doing a coffee soak (14oz instant coffee in 1 gal water) to give additional contrast.
  2. Unfortunately one of my students was unable to attend but that didn't keep Buddy & I from having a good time. If you recognize him it may be from the Forged in Fire TV Show on which he competed. For his choice of mosaic patterns, Buddy chose a 4-wayed "W" pattern combined with some powdered 1084 in a diamond array. Once welded, he will forge it into an Egyptian style dagger tomorrow.
  3. I will add some type of bulbous ends on the S guard. I'm not sure just what yet.
  4. Doing a little late night design work. I've been giving a lot of thought as to what style of guard to use on this one. I believe that the guard design for this one will be critical as to whether or not this knife is loved or just merely accepted. I think this rough concept should work well with the rest of the knife.
  5. Cocobolo may not have been the ideal choice for a carved handle as the grain somewhat obscures the carving but it still adds a little "bling" to the knife.
  6. For this Bowie I'm doing several things that I haven't done for some time. First I'm giving it a San Mai blade of 1080 & 15N20 which I haven't done in a long time. Next I'm using some cocobolo for the first time in years and am adding some hand carving to it which I do but rarely. As the temperature as well as the barometer are falling, I once again will start work on the hilt before the blade is finished just to give me some inside work to do while it's nasty outside.
  7. Following the lead of one of my early role models, Daryl Meier, I found a new use for my Damascus drop offs. These two came from a cannister that I made earlier this year:
  8. First dry fit-up: As you can see, I opted for a bold pattern in this blade.
  9. I used some years ago and would recommend stabilizing.
  10. Here are all of the components. The blade (second) is H/T'ed & tempered, ready for hand sanding & etch.
  11. If you want a strong system for attaching scales to a full tang check out corby bolts.
  12. I think that will be plenty strong. Eventually I'm confident that you will want to find other methods as tapping the holes is a PITA. lol
  13. I'm going to disagree to a point with the others here. A pin only adds a mechanical bond in one direction, either horizontally or vertically but not both (unless they are peened). So if you are thinking of pins going through the tang and only partially through the scales then they're not as strong. I prefer to have both a mechanical as well as a chemical bond on my handles. Just my $.02.
  14. While doing the final grind on this blade I ran into an unacceptable flaw in the steel. This morning I managed to get another billet welded and forged into a blade. This one has a "W" pattern with a Wolf's Tooth grind.
  15. Thanks, Brian. How are you coming with your mosaic knife?
  16. I got the guard sanded, polished & heat blued today. I stopped the bluing short of a dark blue. (determined by temperature) I like a little purple mixed in with the blue.
  17. I would recommend using either 416 stainless or bronze for your fittings.
  18. Chris, I think for your second knife you should be very proud. Remember that when you ask for opinions that they are just that and everyone's will be different. The main things that are not subjective are blade geometry and handle comfort. If I were to really get picky I would find only small things to change on your next. One would be to be sparing with the use of brass. Many customers baulk at it. Some have already been brought up like pin placement and ricasso size. If in doubt use the golden mean which Alan mentioned---1 to 1.618. It makes things more pleasing to the eye. Also, one of the best tips that I can give you is to occasionally make a knife and test it to destruction so you know what your knives can and cannot do. All in all I'd say that you've got a winner. Nice job.
  19. Thanks, Alan. I enjoy adding some old blacksmithing stuff to modern bladesmithing. We could all learn a lot from the old time smiths.
  20. No apologies needed. It's all a matter of taste. That's why I try to make each one unique as none will please everyone.
  21. It's still very rough but can now be called a d-guard.
  22. Glad to. This an old blacksmith's technique called a wheat twist. It's made with two pair of round rods. With the ends welded together, one is twisted clockwise and the other counter-clockwise. It's important to regulate the heat and that is done best with an oxy/acet torch. (Remember that they will twist most where they are the hottest.) They are then paired side by side and welded together. I then welded some wrought iron to each end.
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