Jump to content

Gary Mulkey

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by Gary Mulkey

  1. That's impressive! Curious. Do you use lost wax for the bronze fittings? Gary
  2. I've made very few "hog" knives as I usually try to talk the client out of hunting them with a knife. I've heard too many horror stories of an ear tearing off and the dog (or man) getting laid open. I have a 45/70 that works very well for such things. Those I have made were an Arkansas Toothpick style w/9-10" blade. To me the primary function of it should be to puncture while making as clean of a cut as possible for maximum bleeding. LOL! I believe if it were mine, I would like a 10' handle.
  3. Thanks. I have a regular customer who collects push daggers so I built this one with him in mind. Gary
  4. I don't make many this small especially w/ a clay coated blade but once in a while it's nice to do something different. Blade is 1095. Handle is walnut w/ gold lipped pearl inlet. Gary
  5. I know that this may sound a little vague but probably the best steel to use is the one that you know the best. Your H/T and blade geometry will add more to the usefulness of the knife than the type of steel. Gary
  6. If you find it at Radio Shack then it is an old bottle (not a problem) as they haven't restocked it in some time. One reason I've found for cutting it is that if you are etching damascus, the full strength has a tendency to etch both steels where a 3/4:1 solution won't etch the second steel as much giving a better contrast. I haven't tried cutting with alcohol. Gary
  7. I appreciate the kind words. D guards are always a bit of a pain. The giraffe scales on this one dictated a full tang which makes the D guard even more of a pain. No matter how much of the handle work I do before assembly, it seems that there is always something that will require a certain amount of hand work to finish and a D guard just increases it. Glad you liked it. Gary
  8. One thing to consider as well was that only the wealthy could afford armour and to them it was often a statement of that wealth. Thusly, one would have to think that they would want it in good repair for a better statement. Gary
  9. This one off fighter has an 8 3/4"blade with distal taper. The handle is giraffe bone w/sterling inlets. After I got to the handle work, I remembered why I don't like building D-guards. Gary
  10. Kevin, There are two types of moisture in a "green" piece of wood. One is the moisture trapped within all wood cells (which are hollow). The other is the moisture absorbed by the cellulose fiber. It is a good idea to air dry the green wood initially to remove the first type. In removing the absorbed moisture you should remember that all wood shrinks as it dries and if the wood on the surface is allowed to dry faster than that in the center then the result will be cracking. Also, remember that most wood dries 8-10 faster through the end grain than the side grain so you should retard this with wax or an oil based paint. An inexpensive drying kiln can be made from a sealed plywood box with a room dehumidifier and a light bulb inside. Ideal conditions inside the kiln would be 110 degrees farenheit with the wood stickered and a drain hose plumbed outside from the dehumidifier. Good luck, Gary
  11. This is one that I had to look at multiple times. Fascinating! Beyond me how it was welded without distortion. Gary
  12. Jake, I'm a bit slow but thanks for the filework reply. Gary
  13. Very nice! I have just taken an order for a traditional dirk and this will be my first time carving Celtic Knots. You've inspired me. Wish me luck. I would like to add some filework to the back of the blade but so far haven't found anything suggesting patterns that were commonly used. Any suggestions? Thanks, Gary
  14. I have a customer that is interested in a Scottish Dirk. He didn't specify a period for it and they morphed quite a bit over the centuries. Out of curiousity, what ingredients would you consider essential for all dirks? Gary
  15. If I'm not mistaken, Beau Randall built the first which was dubbed "bird & trout". It was simply a small clip point which could be used for small game. Like Bowie's, you will now see as many types of bird & trout knives as there are makers. Gary
  16. Sorry about the quality of the photo. This one went to Minnesota (surprise) this week so I can't get any more photos. One of these days I need to upgrade my photography equipment. Glad you liked the concept. Gary
  17. This piece isn't historically accurate but I wanted to build a dagger/small sword with a Viking flavor. It has a 10" blade & 15" OAL (the largest I could get in my H/T oven). The handle is African blackwood. The hull of the ship inlet is of interior mastadon with mastadon bark for the sail. The mast is sterling with mosaic pins for the shields. Gary Mulkey
  18. You're right. It's Missouri. Just an oversight on my part. Gary
  19. The dates for the 2009 Branson Hammer-In / Knife Show have been set for June 27 / 28, 2009. It will be held at The Shepherd of the Hills Farm in Branson. The demo. area will have three forges going (two gas & one coal) with a knife show in the adjacent building. List of demonstrators: Jerry Fisk, John Fitch, Harvey King, Ray Kirk, Jim Krause, Bill Miller, Mike Miller, Jody Muller, Rusty Polk, Jerry Rados, Kyle Royer, Shawn Shropshire, Perry Stanford, & Brion Tomberlin. For more information contact: Gary Mulkey (417) 335-0123 (417) 348-0123 gary@mulkeyknives.com
  • Create New...