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KPeacock

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About KPeacock

  • Birthday 03/20/1982

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Minneapolis, MN
  • Interests
    Outdoor activities including: Hunting, fishing, hikingm, canoeing, SCUBA diving, logging, etc.
  1. I haven;t used kydex much, but i have used it enough to know that rivets seem to work best for me. I have also saddle stitched it in once instance. I didn;t account for a very thick blade well enough and the rivets would have rubbed on the cutting edge, so I stitched the entire edge. This particular sheath is for a machete style camp knife. it's far too heavy for daily use, but works well for camping trips to split small wood pieces for fires, and what not. I drilled the blade to lighten it a bit, but it's still rather heavy. I ground this out (pure stock removal) while heat trating a sw
  2. rebuilding electric motors isn't very difficult if you understand how "things" works. on most cases, a simple disassembly an cleaning is all that is needed. while you have the case apart, it is a good idea to light sand the armature contacts (where the brushed ride) with some emery cloth, or some sand paper. 320grit is plenty aggressive for this. make it all shint and pretty and then reassemble. If the brushes are worn down significantly, replace them. This is usually not necessary on the first disassembly. I learned this on starters and alternators for vehicles, but it;s the same for a
  3. My path to bladesmithing started a few years ago with a quest to make a very good friend of mine a damascus hunting knife. After building a few forges, some tools, finding an anvil, and all of the other stuff that goes into learning to be a beginner I made a few knives. they were more test pieces than decent knives, but that got me a point where i was confident in my welds and I made my first damascus hunting knife. I gave that knife to my friend on his wedding day and he was very appreciative. A year later his brother, also a very dear friend, was to be married. When discussing the weddi
  4. I keep a few spray bottles of water around the forge and anvil to keep parts "cool" and to spray down the face of the anvil. It does break up and remove some of the scale while forging. I didn't have this piece laying in the puddle of flux that now resides in the bottom of my forge, but i did manage to get some the black glass like stuff on the blade in a few spots. It didn't come off as easily as the scale did, but it did come off. I'm guessing that a grinder would make faster work of it, but then you have the course scratches to file out. What I like about the media blasting is that
  5. I'm not sure if any of you have ever tried this, but I've found that sand blasting works darn well at removing scale. I'm working on a project for a friend that involved a hammered finish. I have usually ground, sanded...etc the scale layer off of a piece when I was done with the forge. This isn't a great option in this case since it would remove some of the concave "defect" left from the ball peen hammer. I went at it with a soda blaster and was very disappointed with the result, but when I sand blasted it I was happy to see a nice dull finish free of scale. I'm not sure how well this wo
  6. I just saw this on Craigslist. not sure if anyone is interested or not, but firgured I'd pass it along http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/wsh/zip/1522564640.html
  7. Glad to hear you're building a new set-up. I'm in the process of building a new forge as well. My Horizontal has 2" of insulation and satanite al lthe way around. it gets plenty hot enough to burn steel and can easily weld, but it takes a while to get to that heat and I'm limited with only 12" if usable pace inside. I've also got a wicked hot spot in the center that makes larger blades difficult. I've decided to do a Vertical forge with a pass through design so my length is unlimited. I'm using a a propane tank as a body (fork lift style, not BBQ). I've got it cut up with a removable
  8. let folks say what they want about it, I think it looks pretty darn good. Though pink is not my favorite color, i really do like the marbled/pearl-like appearance. good work.
  9. Kelly Cupples had it as of a couple of months ago when I ordered some 1095 poweder from him. Great guy to deal with.
  10. Matt makes a great point. most welding rods have a very low carbon content and make foor knives that do not hold an edge well. I too tried something like this when i first started in the knife making. it was a neat looking knife, but it was more or less useless for all but opening letters. Hardfacing rod has much more carbon in it and can make for a good knife i suppose. i've never made a knife out of it, but I do use it to build up the wear bars on some of the older smowmobiles. it resists wear much better than normal 6011,6013, or 7018 rod. I suspect that it would hold an edge much be
  11. As always, an impressive knife. I'm partial to the look of maple on most knives and this is no exception. Once again....great work!
  12. Very clean looking knife. great job matching the leather and the wood. the colors work well together
  13. I also own one of these welders (http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200332691_200332691) and I am very happy with it. I wanted a new MIG welder as my previous wirefeed only did flux cored. I figured this way I could haev one for flux cored welding and one for MIG welding. This is almost identical to a lincoln. most of teh parts are interchangeable actually. Apparently there was some sort of legal issue brought up by lincoln regarding patent infringement or something. I"m not sure if its true or not, but I know the welder works well. it is fan cooeld and I
  14. I'm not sure where exactly these welders are in relation to you (I just searched LA) but they are out there. if you looks for a few weeks you ought to be able to get one of these for $100-150. These arc welders have no moving parts in them so they are very long lived and don't break easily. You can get an auto darkening helmet from Harbor freight for about $30. It isn't pretty, but it works just fine. The best thing about doing it this way is that you have a welder....everyone should have a welder. A word of advice, don't waste money on the harbor freight arc welder. it's a POS. I'v
  15. I use a bandsaw to cut cold billets, and a chisel to cut hot billets. Both work pretty well. I tried a sawzall and it works marginally if you keep the blade cool. I used a bucket of water for this. saw for a bit then dunk it in water....repeat. I've used chopsaws to do the same thing. its loud, messy and wastes steel, but it works. Aside from a hot cutter, the fastest thing I've used was a cut-off wheel on a 7" or 4.5" grinder. Harbor freight sells 4.5" grinders for about $15. they arent great, but I've beat the heck out of one of them fro the last 5 years or so and it's still
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