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KPeacock

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Everything posted by KPeacock

  1. it sounds like you didn't have the fabric soaked well enough in the resin. I mix my fiberglass in a shallow plastic container and then push each piece of fabric into the goo. it slip between my fingers to ring off the excess resin and tehn set onto a sheet of wax paper. I repeat this with as many layers as I think are necessary. When clamping the stack of epoxy coated fabric, I don't tighten the clamps too much. The tighter you clampe them, the finer the "grain" of the pattern will be. I prefer a little more of a bold look to them. this is personal preference only.
  2. Jim, congrats on getting the wife involved. My wife will have nothing to do with it. She saw some pictures online of my forge burners when I finally got them built and thought it was dangerous. She steers quite clear of "my" garage, and I stem lightly in "her" house. It wasn;t until she saw my last knife that I finished for a friend that she thought what i am doing is neat. Her reaction was "YOU made this? How did you make it pretty?" I explained to her how its done and she asked when I was going to make her a knife. I'll make her one, but I'm not sure when she'll ever use it. Paerhaps one day she'll try her hand at forging, but I won;t be holding my breath.
  3. well, "good" is relative. Without knowing what steel it is, my guess is that its a low carbon steel. this is typically found in structural elements because it can deform without cracking. This isn't to say you can't make a knife out of it. it just won't harden like a higher carbon steel will. If nothing else, it's a frugal way to practice forging the shape you want and trry finishing techniques.
  4. thanks for the info, John. I'll give it a shot once i get a chance to make my little steel hockey pucks into something a bit more pointy.
  5. Mine is a mini H-frame style press modled after the one seen i nthe tools section. Although it's not quite as fast as the full-sized presses, it certainly works better than a hammer and the anvil. It wouldn't suit the needs of someone doing this for a living, but it is effective for a hobbyist like myself. I'm excited to get to work on Don's W2. I had to sit on it for a while as I didn't have a great way to cut through the stock. I've got a chop saw, but I prefer to do it a bit quieter and with less sparks. I've now got my metal cutting bandsaw in the shop and cut one of the bars into smaller pieces. Now it's just a matter of having the free time to dabble with it. I'd like to get a decent fillet knife made first. my wife and I go salmon fishing in Michigan a few times a year on my step father-in-law's 30' Persuit boat. He loves salmon fishing and bought the boat just for it. He never accepts any form of payment for the cost of fuel, tackle, food,...etc. I figure a nice fillet knife that will hold an edge is something that he can't refuse. Stopping to sharpen a knife part way through the filleting is frustrating to say the least.
  6. Don, Obviously this steel can produce quite a hamon. I'll be forging out a knife from this steel in the next couple of weeks and want to try my hand at obtaining a hamon. What type of quench are you using and how do you temper your blades? Thanks, Kris
  7. You've got to be kidding me. I saw that a month or so ago. I had no idea it was JPH. That's two of our board members that I've seen on TV as experts. That says quite a bit about the level of experience of some of the folks in here.
  8. I too worked one down a little bit. It's about 2X as thich as I want it right now....yet it's already thinner than anything I've quenched before. I had to stop before I had it where I wanted it. Apparently I missed the memo that I was required to fold laundry instead of "Plying with that silly forge." I corrected the Mrs. by letting her know that the forge was not running. This may not have been the best tactic. At any rate, It'll be a week or two before I can get all of my test knives where I want them to get them all quenched and tempered and check the results. I'm taking a bit of a break from damascus for a while. I got a box of Don Hansons W2 and I want to see what I can get by way of a hamon. I appreciate the offer to use the press. 've got a homemade air/hydraulic press that works well enough, but clearly has it's downsides to it.
  9. Well, if tyhats what you were aiming for, you certainly hit your target. This is why it's difficult to criticise the work of others. The steel itself can be criticized is it's heat treated poorly, or cracked...etc, but the overall look of a knife is something that some folks will like and others may not. There are plenty of knives shown on here that I admire for their attention to detail, and the time invested, but I personally might not care for them and would never carry them or use them. Others I see are not so "pretty" but appear to be the right sizze and feel for carrying and using everyday. There is no "right" and "wrong" knife....as far as I can tell. What you've done so far looks pretty darn good to me. Keep at it.
  10. Tate, You're quite close to me indeed. I live in Prior lake righ off of CR-42. I'm about 2 blocks from the big PL water tower at CR-42 and CR-18. you can;t be more than a couple of miles from me. please do let me know how it goes for you. Thanks, Kris
  11. I think they look plenty usable as is. some folks like the look of that. I personally make knifes for utility, but try to make them a bit "pretty" as well. A couple things that strike me as a bit "off" on the skinner is the size of the guarsd and the alignment of the handle with the knife. This is just personal opinion, but I like the looks better when the handle is a bit more aligned with the spine of the blade. It's different strokes for different folks though. I find that the handle making is the hardest part of making knives. working the steel is the fun part for me. I've got a pile of blades laying around with no handles. many of them were expiraments that went wrong, or test pieces just to learn what would happen if i did this or that. Here are a couple of examples of what I mean. My first knife finished to completion and my third knife finished to completion. It's certainly a lerning process, but the more you do it, the more you'll see what looks good and what doesn't...but then again, "looks good" is very subjective.
  12. thanks for the link. Last night I cut a few strips of steel and hammered them out to thin the stock down a bit. I'm going to make a few test pieces to get an idea of what the end product will be and then take an educated guess at what I need to do for the real knife. I've got quite a few other projects going on right now, but I'd like to get the forge fired up at least once a week so I can make saome sort of progress. Thanks again, Kris
  13. Rod, Welcome aboard. spend a bit of time clicking through the archives for a wealth of information. On slow days I can easily spend hour upon hour looking through the old posts. A lot of the questions you'll have are answered in there somewhere. As far as cutting out a blank, I think a plasma cutter would work just fine. you would be well served to cut the blank a wee bit oversized and file off a bit around the edges just in case you have a carbon loss issue, but I think the carbon will migrate enough that there wont be any trouble here. I've filed all of my bevels in by hand. it isn;t as slow as you might imagine. to keep things even I use a magic marker to color in the blade and then use a compass to scratch in where I want the bevel to start. this as worked pretty well for me to keep things pretty close to even on both sides. I stumbled along a link a few weeks ago that illustrated how to grind the bevels with a 4.5" angle grinder. I have not made one yet, but it should be easy to duplicate. http://myhome.mweb.co.za/~20022586/jig.htm
  14. Well, my pattern welded hnuting knife was a huge success. I'm happy the groom was pleased with it, but even more happy that quite a few folks that saw it want me to make them similar knives. I've got "orders" for 11 of them. One gentleman asked if I could make him a fillet knife that he wont have to sharpen after every other salmon he cuts up. I have little doubt that I can make a sarvicible knife, but I'm unsure of the best way to heat treat the steel. I've got 1095 and W2 from known sources, and a whole lot of leaf springs which I presume to be 5160. My guess is that the leaf springs are going to be the better of the three for a fillet knife, but I don't know the best way to heat treat it. I'd like the steel to be a bit flexy so it will be easier to use. Any thoughts on the best way to temper the steel? With such a thin blade, I'll obviously normalize a few times before the quench to decrese the potential for cracking and warping.
  15. simple solution... What if you were to plumb in some globe valves...the 90° type with the lever to turn them on/off. if you made a small stop on this, you could easily turn it "off" which would cut fuel flow to whatever you had the stop set at. This could be the minimum flow for sustained burn. I have one of these valves on my set-up, but I use it only as an emergency shut-off. I use a small 1/4" valve from oxy/acetylene torches to dial back the fuel when needed.
  16. I've got a few of them for various chores. in the 4,5" size I've got three. I've got an older makitia that I really like, but I don;t use al lthat often. The two I use most are a DeWalt and a Harbor freight. I've abused the HF model for 4 years now and it still runs great. a little bit sloppier than the other two, but an angle grinder is not exactly a precision device. I bought the DeWalt for cutting some tile two years ago. I use it, but the HF grinder does most of the work. I leave a grinding disc on the HF, a cut-off wheel on the DeWalt, and either wire wheel, or a sanding disc on the Makita. It saves a bit of time not having to switch discs as often. Considering the cost of them, I'd happily buy a few more of the HF cheepies. Just today I bought a Hf multi-tool. I had been considering getting either a dremel version or getting the original Fein version. At $40, i figured I'd try the HF version to see if it will even do what I want it to do. If it works, I'll use it until it breaks and then replace with a higher quality model.
  17. nice work. I really like the look of the burl woods.
  18. All this sword stuff is making me a bit itchy to make something long, sharp and, pointy. Thanks for taking the time to share your pics.
  19. Chris, Thanks for the kind words. Although this particular knife is what prompted me to start making "decent" knives, this is definately not the first knife I produced. I spent a fair bit of time hammering out RR spike to practice form and try to get the steel to do what I wanted, as opposed to letting it do as it wished. The forge welding eluded me for a while until I went down and visited Mike Blue. He was kind enough to let me hand around the forge and watch the process. I was hitting the steel far too hard and at too cold a temperature. After a bit of practive on Spikes and files, I gave it a go with steel cable. I made a couple of decent blades out of them, but the fit and finish of the handles was less than impressive. I got to try a few things and see what worked and what didn't. Fortunately they were intended to be used as not displayed. One of them has butchered three deer so far and has not needed resharpening. My goad was to make a usable knife that wouldn;t go dull, and it seems as though I have accomplished that. Trial and error can be frusterating, but every broken blade teaches a lesson. Good luck on all of your projects. Kris
  20. I've got a couple more small knife projects that I want to get finished/started, but seeing all of these swords certainly has me looking foreward to future projects. Nice work.
  21. This is my first pattern welded blade, first full tang knife, first attempt at a sheath that looks decent, and first time I knew what the outcome would be before I started. I welcome all criticisms you might have, thats the only real way to learn. Thanks to everyone that is a part of this board. I've learned quite a bit here and without that knowledge, this knife would still be a block of layered steel. A special thanks to Mike Blue for allowing me to come down and see some forge welding first hand. Descriptions online are great, but seeing it in person works much better for me.
  22. Thank you, Sir. I pass one on teh way home every day. I'll stop in and grab some. Thanks, Kris
  23. Serge, Do you purchase your rivets online or locally? If online, would you mind sharing your source. I have some Kydex in the mail heading my way, and at some point I'll need to get my hands on some rivets. Thanks, Kris
  24. That reminds me of a castle I used to live in over in the netherlands. I was there for only a couple of months, but it was really cool to live in a castle. The one you (The colelctive "you") have picked looks like a great spot for a wedding.
  25. I"m quite impressed with the symetry in the handle. My skill level is a bit lower than snake feces in wagon tracks compared to that. Good work!
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