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      IMPORTANT Registration rules   02/12/2017

      Use your real name or you will NOT get in.  No aliases or nicknames, no numerals in your name. Do not use the words knives, blades, swords, forge, smith (unless that is your name of course) etc. We are all bladesmiths and knifemakers here.  If you feel you need an exception or are having difficulty registering, send a personal email to the forum registrar here.  

C Craft

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C Craft last won the day on August 16 2017

C Craft had the most liked content!

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About C Craft

  • Birthday 07/07/1957

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    N W Florida
  • Interests
    Family and especially my grandson! Building knives is becoming a passion with me. Outdoors in general, hunting fishing.

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  1. We Have LANDED

    Welcome to Fl. JPH!!
  2. Renaissance Sidesword WIP

    OK no one has mentioned this set-up. So I guess I got to say something. Did you to build this??? It appears to have been part of something else but, Wow what a machine!!! The ability for micro adjustment appears to be totally built into the machine!! Impressive, is the first word to come to mind! Now to move on to the work you are doing, it is very impressive. The attention to detail is what makes one like this impressive and so far this one has all the markings for absolute greatness. I can't wait to see the next photos!!
  3. Stainless San mai

    OK, now I am learning. The press is probably very much key, (most likely) in this process. I don't tig I am old school ( I arc weld) but, will tell you with stick you will create more heat, (more than likely IMO)! While I am typing this Jeremy posted and that is true as well about the rod material. You can probably overcome the process of adding in other material by watching what rod you are using (stick welding) but, from what little I do know about Tig, the heat build up from the stick process is going to be far greater. Unless you weld in short runs, which in itself could be problematic! Tom said; Posted 8 hours ago Mr. Misch, thanks for the nice comment. Much of what I know about this process came from Ed Caffery. He was very kind to answer my questions and gave me lots of help. I will try to answer the questions. If I leave yours out, ask again and I will try to answer 1. I think it would be hard to make this San Mai with out a press. I would say try it and see what happens. A press welds everything together all at once. Also a press will keep the 1095 in the center of the billet where you want it. 2. After I have used my 100lb power hammer to draw out the billet, I bring it up to heat and then go back to the press and with large round dies I put a sort of ladder pattern in. Then instead of grinding off the ridges like you would for a Damascus ladder pattern, I just go back to the power hammer with flat dies and flatten the billet. I hammer on both sides of the billet to keep the 1095 in the center. I have had no problem with the billet separating after the press sets the weld. Using the power hammer I do hammer the edges to help draw the billet out. I don't try to forge the point or bevels because that might get the 1095 out of the center of the billet. I do forge in the tang on hidden tang knives. So for the files on new insight. One reason I think the press is so key, is just natural thinking it through but, two is I know Ed. He is good people and if tells you this is the best way, it's because he has already tried the other way and it don't work or work well at all! He starts something new and he takes his process thru several tests before any of it ever leaves his shop!!! Gonna have to put this info in my for the future ideas folder but, I still think the press may be more key than most would think, and definitely so given the look of the hamon. Thanks for the info guys, at 60 I am still learning new things! Like I am not as fast as I use to be or it hurts more to take a tumble, and ,..............LOL
  4. Stainless San mai

    So must ask another question the look or pattern as you referred to it. Is that a hamon or is it something achieved by the marriage of the two steels. I suddenly find myself wanting to learn more about this process! One more thing is this a possible process without a press, can it be done on an anvil, after welding the edges????
  5. Stainless San mai

    So, I got to ask. When it comes to forging period I am still a virgin. Most all of my knives are high carbon steel and made through reduction. However I just had a run in with a knife my son brought to me to re-point and sharpen. I tried this knife on water stones and from the roughest oil stone to the finest I had and it turned out to be nearly impossible to get a good edge on. Finally I put it on a diamond stone and I got an acceptable edge. Turns out this was a production knife made by Spyderco, the steel is marked as CPMS30V . I had several makers comment that they did not like these types of steel for the same reason clients could not get a good edge and were constantly bringing them back! So I read the post by Tom Lewis Now here is the question I got to ask! So you are making a knife that has the best of both worlds, You are making a piece of 1095 sandwiched between 410SS. You get the SS resistance to outside of the blade and yet the core is high carbon 1095. Making it easier to sharpen, Is that what you are achieving or am I missing something?????
  6. Dragon Seax

    Hoy, you pulled out all the stops on that one. You left no inch without the wealth of your touch! There is so much eye candy there, I find myself going back another time to drink at the well!! Two thumbs up!!!
  7. Hammers

    Has anyone ever made one of the railroad spike hammers into a successful hammer. Everytime I see one of these my brain says, cut it off above the handle area and flare the other end and make a dog hammer of it!! Something like this! Then sensibility sets in and I think, that would be a hard task without a power hammer!!
  8. Biggish Hunter

    Richard, you done yourself proud on that one. Love the pics too!!!
  9. That time

    Vern, i like an eternal optimist! Right back at y'all, HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!
  10. From Katana to Cutlass

    Rob, when I clicked on this thread, I am on page 3 and trying to figure where we are and how we got there. So after feasting my eyes on this one I had to go back and look at page 1 and how this progressed. I discovered a comment from myself that I had forgotten about. Wow, this one has come full circle and it turned out to be an awesome piece of work! Let me pat you on the back on this one mate, cause I am afraid you are too humble to do it, and you damn sure deserve it on this one!! You rocked this one!!!!!!!!
  11. Seven King Sword

    Seriously, you hope the next one comes out better. Oh my God man, I don't think you left anything to shoot for with this one, short of transporting back into time to see it used!! The way you have the photos put together show the work at various stages and some of the "how" but, I can't imagine the hours of work that went into this one. The scabbard is an absolute work of art! The only thing left is a dragon embedded in the sword itself!! OK now I was only joking about the dragon but,........................ This kind of work shows anyone out there what is possible, however how many of us will actually achieve this level, remains to be seen.
  12. 3/4” mild steel

    Got a local welding shop??? Steel has gone up, (even mild steel) and the young man makes more money on the road than at his shop. However I got a local that has a shop and If I drive by and he's at the shop I stop to see him. If I am in need I will ask him if I can scrounge through his drops. There is always a pile of steel various, thicknesses and sizes. A few bucks will get you in and out with what you need. This fellar don't drink but if you got one who does a cold beer will sometimes get you what you need and if not it will at least grease the wheels for the next trip. That is the problem with a teetotaller is he ain't interested in a good drink, be some smooth shine to a cold beer. Your just out of luck in that respect!!
  13. Thanks Gary, for explaining, and Alan for highlighting the difference!! I think I will try the ATP-641!!
  14. OK, so I went to the Brownells site and now I got a question. What is the difference between the two of these products?? Has anyone tried both of them and if so what do you think about one Vs the other???? https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/metal-prep-coloring/heat-treating-accessories/anti-scale-coating-prod23076.aspx https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/metal-prep-coloring/heat-treating-accessories/non-scaling-compound-sku083015100-1122-4011.aspx?rrec=true
  15. Starting a New WIP

    Gary, you amaze me. You make all this look so easy and we all know it is not! You sir, are a true master at your craft!!
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