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C Craft

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C Craft last won the day on September 6 2018

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About C Craft

  • Birthday 07/07/1957

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    N W Florida
  • Interests
    Family and especially my grandson! Building knives is becoming a passion with me. Outdoors in general, hunting fishing.

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  1. Thanks for chiming in Jerrod. I am beginning to understand that there are other factors beside the notch itself! It is kind of like welding a piece of the rod to to a section of flat bar!! I made a connector for a mower like I said, by welding a piece of rod to piece of flat bar. I broke it twice but not at the weld but right along side of the weld. In other words the weld didn't fail but the heat of the weld caused a stress factor to the metal along side the weld. By controlling the heat of the weld the third time the rod/flat bar was still in use 3 yrs after the last time I weld
  2. Explains a lot I have been facing True South when doing my quench!
  3. Perhaps Jerrod Miller our resident metallurgist has some thoughts on this subject! I am interested greatly in stress areas created by inside corners. It may be one of those urban legends but it is something I have heard about since I started knife making!
  4. Thanks guys! I have purposely stayed away from the discussion because I wanted to see what everyone had to say. I have cut a similar notch to lock in a guard. Using a cut off wheel to start the notch and a round file to finish out the cut. Much like an upside down U. After all it just needs to be deep enough to give the guard that locking point! When soldered in the solder will fill the inside corners between the metal and the upside down U and it can't be seen after soldering! I felt by doing the upside down U, there was less of a chance of making a stress point! I hav
  5. If this is in the wrong place please feel free to move it! I was looking on the net for information about installing guards. So I ran across this video. If you watch the video in its entirety, it is very informative. However my first question came at the beginning of the video! About minute 120 - 128 he shows the blade he is about to solder the guard onto. So the first question the notch for the guard to lock into. I was always told that a notch like that is great place for a stress point to show up! So is that notch a problem??
  6. You know Gary, I always expect your work to be impeccable and yet you continue to impress me!!! I am tuned in for this one!
  7. How do you know you have a good one?? Is it just a matter of plugging it in and if it comes on it is winner??
  8. I have thought about this before using a salvage pump but I have questions!! Most of the time you have an old AC or refrigerator go bad it is the compressor. So how do you know if you have a good one?? So I have to ask how do you salvage old compressor pumps to use as a vacuum pump?? Anyone have a tutorial on salvaging an old compressor pump??
  9. So got to ask what is the black material. Is it just black spacer material?? The reason I ask is it occurred to me the heat build up between the two materials could be problematic when grinding down to shape!! Or is that what you are talking about all the filing! Filing to finish to avoid the heat issue in doing the final finish!!!
  10. When I first got started making. I made a few blades from an old two man saw. My mentor told that the steel was probably as hard as it would ever get no matter the heat treat. Also told me if I was careful and did not overheat the steel I would not have to heat treat. I never had one of them tested for hardness but they had enough carbon content to hold a good edge and when dull re-sharpened with just a few passes on a stone! I found out there was enough carbon in the steel I could not hardly drill it! Full carbide blades would cut until they got hot and then they were done. Disco
  11. C Craft

    Old Axe

    Check this out. https://www.thehenryford.org/docs/default-source/default-document-library/the-henry-ford-iron-conservation.pdf/?sfvrsn=2 http://www.metaldetectingworld.com/electrolysis_rust_removal.shtml
  12. +1 Brian says! I use rasps, files and the sander to rough shape, but remember David you can always take more off but you can't add it back! Stop and look often. I will dry fit many times till I get the basic shape of what I am liking for that particular knife! Comparing side to side to make sure I don't have one different from the other!! Also when you have the rough shape you like. Start trying to use less and less tools that cut deep. Just like the blade you have to sand all the marks out down to the finish handle. I really do use an oscillating sander to shape when
  13. Here is a quick and dirty drawing of how lines can help you with your shaping! If you are looking for a coke bottle shape of a knife handle! You can start with the two blocks. Measuring out the point as too where you want to take your lines to, gives you a basic idea of where to start and stop with the shaping! Looking at my quick drawing. The top view shows that the roll at the ricasso is not exactly matching in my drawing. So I would have to work at this when shaping. Also I am not crazy about the initial shape itself! So would probably do some freehand on the shape
  14. The quick short answer VERY CAREFULLY! I am assuming these are already glued up the way you are talking. So this is the best advice I can give at this point!! Look I have had to go back and work on the front of a set of scales. Cover the ricasso with a thin material, such as sheet metal, brass or similar! Make sure that that the cover material is taped off well, so it can't move while you work on the reshaping! You will have to do the reshape with hand tools such as a file or similar. I have used a file before and then you have to do the finish sanding with an oscillating sander
  15. Make sure you drill press drills square! If your drill press is not drilling a square to the material you will never get them to line up! When you work the scales and the front edge use the same pins you will use during final assembly! This keeps both sides of the scales square too each other, while working them. Dry assemble to see if you like the fit. You can leave them slightly long till you get the front or the shape like you want them to look and finish out! Once you like the dry fit then use the same pins to assemble. The finish work at the front of th
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