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C Craft

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Everything posted by C Craft

  1. Gary, your work is always superb and it makes so jealous. You make it like child's play to get that level of workmanship and we both know it isn't! You are indeed a master at your craft!
  2. I am so impressed, I feel lowly!
  3. So glad to see he is still frequenting the forum! It was his work that initially prompted to me to get started in making knives. I first meant him on a Traditional Muzzleloading Forum. It was his ability to make a new knife and sheath and make it look like someone had gone back in time and brought it to the present! Now I am not talking about some of the stuff I see where someone attempted to make a piece look old by gouging it with a grinder stuff! But he had a way of aging his knives to show the period! It was Wick's style of help, as well as how he imparted that help, that makes him timeless. He would answer any question I came up with and take the time to explain why it was this way and why what you were thinking did not work. He did all of this with out once ever saying, how dumb the newbies question was! And I came up with some really stupid ones!! He would divulge how to. That is something many makers won't do. He did that with confidence because, he knew it would take most of us years to perfect what for him was every day! Wick and Chuck Burrows both have true knowledge of knife making. Both could rattle of the history of knife making like it being quoted from an encyclopedia! Ok so I dated myself with that one! I am so glad to see that he has come back to the forum. I always called him my adopted mentor. Not that he adopted me, I adopted him and his knowledge that he imparts to all who ask will make you a better knife maker if you listen to what he is telling you! He is a true master at his craft and I am glad to call him friend, even though I have never meant him in person!!
  4. Wick, it has been a coon's age since I last saw anything from you! I lost touch after the muzzleloading forum got sold! My sign on didn't want to work anymore and then all the adds were a PITA. Good to hear from you! I didn't know you weren't making anymore. I still send folks to your site to see how a real maker does it! I learned more from talking with you than probably anyone I ever talked to about making! The one thing that always struck me was no matter how dumb my question might have been you never treated me that way!!
  5. Here is a trick I picked up a long time ago! Use a coffee stir stick the kind that is like a small straw! Place it down in the cavity, the straw/stir stick allows the air to escape while filling. Then you can puddle it down in the epoxy mix at the end of the process. It is often that air pocket that keeps the handle from filling!! I think I got these from McDonald's. I can't remember but it was one of the fast food places that sells coffee!
  6. Stephen I appreciate the offer! You don't know how much. Folks on the forum are good people. I found out what happened to the mill that used be in a machine shop I used till it closed after Covid hit. Talked with the guy and turns out he needs a little repair work done on a bathroom at his house. You know one of those you scratch my back, I'll scratch yours deals! Works for me!!
  7. Very nice! I have to say I like it!
  8. Jacob what kind of blade did you use. I checked on a recommended blade for cutting thick aluminum like the Diablo but, can't seem to find one! Not sure I am going to like the price when I see it! Also were you cutting to depth in one pass??
  9. Thanks Jacob. I still haven't given up on this idea! Charles, I checked some more on those door locks and they do not work without the supplied armature plate. The following is from the troubleshooting list on one of those type of locks! So that kills that idea. It really looked if it was a good one! Check to see that armature plate is correctly aligned with the electromagnetic lock. If there is improper alignment, make a 1/4 turn of the armature plate mounting bolt and check for alignment.
  10. Hmmm, will have to look at this!! OK did a quick search and will have to set down and do some more research but Charles this may be just what I am needing!!
  11. Wow, I am in love with that pattern, not to mention the workmanship you put into that one! The serpent pattern is outstanding!! I have had to go back to the top and look again, and again, and again!!
  12. Don, you know what John Wayne use to say, "if you gonna be stupid you gotta be tough" that also works for poor as well!! This router I have has the ability to set to three repeatable depths. So definitely would have to be done in small passes! The one attempt I remember making in routing a piece of aluminum did not end well!! It had only high speed operation. Of course I think I tried that with a carbide wood router bit. It slung a chunk of the carbide tooth went into a window and, oh well you get the idea, it did not turn out as planned! Alan the magnetic chuck would be better in that you can turn it on and off! I run across one of those U-tube videos of a guy scavenging the magnetic from a microwave and turning into a magnetic chuck. But that almost scared me as much as the thought of the aluminum going airborne! You have to work around the adds and the paid endorsement but it does bring up possibilities!
  13. I am working on surface grinder attachment for my KMG clone! So here is a mock up I borrowed from the net! To try and explain what I am up against! So you can refer to the concept drawing. So if you notice the magnetic strip up against the wheel the belt will run on. That is what I am about to attempt to cut the slots for the magnets. There is not a machine shop in my town and most of the ones the next town don't want to mess with this small a project and if the do they want an arm and a leg. Since I don't one of either I want to give up, (arm or leg) this is what I am about to do! I am going to set up my 2 1/4 HP variable speed plunge router to cut those slots for the rare earth magnets. So here is where I am looking for some advice. (I know from my woodworking experience that a 1/8" deep cut is probably maximum for depth per pass on the cuts!) So I am going to guess this would be true for aluminum as well! Which is going to be the best end mill router bit for cutting slots in 3/4" aluminum bar stock?? My understanding a two flute bit is probably the best! They also say running the end mill bit at: Instead, any milling process run at around 15,000 rpm or higher is likely to offer some optimum spindle speed, a "sweet spot," where the cut is significantly more stable than it is at both higher and lower speed settings. This sweet spot rpm value may permit double the depth of cut compared to other speeds! Any advice on this set up will be considered and appreciated!! This is virgin territory as far as cutting aluminum. I have used routers for years but always on wood or formica! So I am open to any advice on cutting these slots. Type of bit, speed and depth of cut!
  14. One thing to think of when folks talk about knives made by old blacksmiths. It wasn't an everyday experience because the knowledge, that a smith was a highly sought after! In other words a knife being something that was done during his down time! As a smith in a small town, that smith if he was any good he had more work than he keep up with making the tools that others used to tame the land and raise their crops. As the mechanical age begin to progress, those items that were being shipped westward from back east. Their was no supply store for parts and parts that were shipped westward. Well that took time and effort all of which contributed to a high price for a repair point! The smith was the man of the hour! To say this and then say a smith did not build knives full time. Well that means many are left believing I am wrong and that smiths just threw something together and sold it as as a knife, is as far from the truth as possible. When a smith set out to build a knife it was a labor of love. After all he wanted the client to come back and that knife would have been used well. Not a mantle piece but, something that would be admired by all that seen it. The owner would brag on the smith for as long as he carried. It would become the best source of word of mouth advertising that any smith could ask for. So to say an old knife would not have been top shelf work. Well that just is not soo!! Maybe that might be true of a knife, a man made for himself at home. But not so for a knife that a trained smith would have made!! It would have been made using all the knowledge that he had with his knowledge he had attained as a smith!! One thing that most overlook in the age of westward expansion most knives that folks carried were what I like to call "use what you brung"! Most were knives from the table or butcher knives from the barn. The majority of knives used in this period were production knives being shipped over the ocean, from places like Sheffield. If you go back and read the journals of the trappers and the folks who were suppling those Rendezvous. They were ordering in bulk from the eastern markets who were in turn getting the goods from providers overseas. I remember on quote from a Rendezous supplier ordering from his supplier. He wanted 40 of those tomahawks with the curly spike on it. "The Iroquois Indians loved them. but for the life of me I can't see why"! The why was that the Iroquois Indians waged war with them against the neighboring tribes and the knew exactly what that curly spike was used for!! You make a knife to a standard as good as you can possibly do. That doesn't always mean you can't use modern tools. You have to make it old when it comes to aging the blade, the handle, the sheath that it goes into. You want to end up with something that by using the time machine was transported thru time today's world! So don't come back with one of those less than stellar knives. Remember even then a knife was something that whoever carried took pride in that knife. It would be used to do their everyday chores or to show off with when the folks all got together. It is said in an old trappers journal, about one of the Rendezvous. The man rode in on his horse much like an Indian warrior at full gallop the horse had scarcely stopped when his feet hit the ground! The first thing that struck me was his size as he was well over six foot but, moved with the grace of deer. His highly colored and ornate buckskins were adorned with bead and needle work had obviously been made by a full blood Blackfoot. He wielded a 58 caliber Hawken as if it were a small stick! As he stood there, I realized everyone else was doing exactly as myself. They were looking at every full inch of this man. The next thing that commanded my gaze was a large knife which he swept from a full rawhide sheath! He raised his knife and with one effortless toss stuck it in an Oak tree dead center of a possibles bag that hung from the branch of that tree. The knife was the most beautiful piece of work I had seen. Not like any of the knives I was seeing being traded at the Rendezvous. Later I found out that he had paid a large amount of money to a smith who was a personal friend in St Louis!! I could not take my eyes off of that knife!! The entry in this mans journal went on to talk for another several pages about this man and his knife and the skirmishes he was engaged in during the week and a half that he stayed at the Rendezvous! The long and short of it was that his knife made an impression on the man's mind!! Ok enough of my rambling!!
  15. Aiden sorry I took your thread in a different direction with my first post. Sometimes you see something and you have to run with it before you have a brain fart and it is gone!! When I first got into knife making I had an adopted mentor. I adopted him not the other way around. He makes pretty much traditional knives. And he knows the history behind them better than anyone I know! His name is Wick Ellerbe, http://www.wickellerbe.com/gallery/index.php?action=showfull&vpic=200&gll=1&tpic=66&maxp=71 Sadly due to me doing less and less in knifemaking these days due to my wife's health. As said he is a traditionalist. He will tell you right quick that brass, copper and fancy pins were not used in the time period that he creates from. It is not that they weren't being used just not in America. He will also tell you that it is hard sometimes to sell reality, and therefore. Knife makers sometimes have to take liberties! I learned a lot from this man. Probably forgot more than I retained!! Another maker that was a traditional knife builder was, Chuck Borrows. When I first meant him we got off on the wrong foot. I was a greenhorn and asked a question that should not have been asked till I got to know him more. Back in the day, most makers held there secrets close to the vest, so too speak!! Chuck has several books out on the subjects of what you are speaking of! This is a Google screenshot and most of these are made by Chuck. https://www.google.com/search?sa=X&rlz=1C1JZAP_enUS930US930&sxsrf=ALeKk02mhVvpUdD39PWBeq1AXFOYor_M7A:1616877535455&source=univ&tbm=isch&q=traditional+knife+makers+in+the+US+Chuck+Burrows&ved=2ahUKEwjblJWZqtHvAhVTG80KHYwBCboQjJkEegQIBRAB&biw=1920&bih=880 Oh, by the way before Chuck died from cancer me and him made amends and he shared some of his ways with me!! He would tell you that think of your knife and your sheath as being old, carried and heavily used. There are always friction areas and if your were to pick up an old sheath and knife where would you expect to see those wear areas. Distress those areas slightly, not only would those areas be worn but they would have generally changed color. Leather begins to bleed and change color. Not like a streak but in a way that shows the wear. He was a master at that in my opinion. Another maker that I spoke extensively with back then was, Stuart Willis. Sadly he passed in his sleep one night in his early 40's! He was a maker of traditional tomahawks and a master at his craft! They showed the period and a great amount of effort was put into his work. I am going to include a few links from that time. I used to be known as Dixieblade57 when I first started. Sadly this forum seemed to get all about money and who could bash who! So I walked away and came to this forum and one more! Anyway here are those links! As well as a couple of other tomahawk makers! https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/green-river-knife.873053/ https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/traditional-spike-tomahawk.625147/ https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/spike-tomahawk.665290/#post-7166445 https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/tomahawk-1018-1095fg-and-sheath-spf.822243/#post-9302629 https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/spike-hawk-forged-spf.827450/#post-9366194 Look closely at the pictures and maybe you can glean some ideas on "how to age" a knife. Of the makers mentioned above only Wick Ellerbe is still alive. At least I don't know of him passing! He would be in his 80's know and I imagine still making knives. Use to really love talking with that man. He was not a secret hider and would share with me. Answer many and I mean many questions. You know the kind the dumb newbies ask!! Never once told me how dumb I was, only encouragement!
  16. Oh my ! I like,.............. I like!! Superb workmanship!!
  17. So while looking at his stuff, I ran across this folder! This folder is by Templehound. This is a little off subject but how does that type of liner lock work? Or is that a true liner lock?? The second picture shows the release. However I can't see in my mind exactly how that works. Can anyone shed a bit of light on the anatomy of such a release?? Does the button press sideways or downward! I have been trying to find more about this kind of lock and either I am not using the right terminology or something because I can't seem to Goggle up anything on it!!
  18. Years ago I was on the beach road at Panama City, Fl. spring break. I damn ran a dude down in the cross walk cause I was intent on a 80CRV2 crossing the street in one of them little crochet bikinis that was in style in the 70's. Problem was my 1084, who I loved very much, reached over and slapped the sh@7 out of me. It was real hard to deny where my eyes were. So I tried the truth angle. I told her baby you are the only one I love but, until the good Lord takes my sight I am gonna look. With that she hauled off and hit me again! Should have went with the deny, deny, deny angle!!!
  19. Along these same lines of quality old files and rasps. Can anyone tell me about the quality of old horse rasps by Save Edge Rasp or Bellota Farrier Rasps. Are either of them of any quality steel??
  20. That is an old one. My dad used to have some Disston triangle files for sharpening hand saws! I am not sure when Disston quit the files, but I haven't seen a Disston in years! That is too good a find to make a knife out of!! I'd use it till it wouldn't cut anymore and then send it out for new teeth! Like Alan said, https://boggstool.com/ When you were asking about how large old files were made. My FIL had one that had been cut down to make a cold chisel. It was close to 2" wide and 3/8" - 1/2" thick, as for length I don't know how long it originally was because some one had cut it down to about 6"! He used it for cutting the tops out of 50 gal. drums. I used it one time by hand to cut out a drum and missed the chisel by the time I got three fourths of the way around the barrel. Hit my hand with a two pound sledge. I had to use vice grips to hold it after that. I just couldn't make my hand stay there and take a chance on hitting it again!
  21. I remember seeing some real old ones that were wider and thicker. 17" is about max length. What brand is the file? If it is a good file they can recut the file. I can't remember the name of the company but if you want I can look for it!!
  22. Well this is above my pay grade but here is my O2 on the subject! You heard from some of the experts. This is knowledge I have picked up over the years of fabricating, construction work, (some of that on the beaches, where you can say a product has a ten year life span, you can automatically cut that in half) and the result of years of welding and a bit of actual forging! To try and explain this you need to examine a few things! This first one is a simple breakdown of most laundry soaps! As we all know Borax or what a large number of smiths use 20 Mule Team Borax (a laundry soap)! Most laundry soaps: Alkalies, a major component in most laundry detergents, are soluble salts and a base that reacts with an acid to neutralize it. ... Today they are chemically produced by running electricity through salt water to produce sodium hydroxide (NaOH) or caustic soda and potassium hydroxide (KOH) or caustic potash. https://www.20muleteamlaundry.com/about/ingredients/ What’s in Borax? Borax is a naturally occurring compound that is found in arid regions similar to salt plains in Utah or Nevada. The mineral itself is made up of Sodium, Oxygen and Boron to create Sodium Tetraborate (Na2B4O7 • 10H2O) and is mined in Central and Southern California. The compound is considered a salt and actually shares many chemical properties with average table salt. 20 Mule Team™ simply refines the raw Borax that is mined from the ground and converts it to a powder for your easy use. If you notice both most laundry soaps and 20Mule Team Borax contain sodium or salt. It is the elements that are tied to that salt or sodium that increases their caustic action, and/or helps to create the bonding process in forging! Define caustic: adjective 1. able to burn or corrode organic tissue by chemical action. "a caustic cleaner" Or here is another definition that I feel even defines why smiths use Borax: What is the meaning of caustic? 1 : capable of destroying or eating away by chemical action : corrosive The chemical was so caustic that it ate through the pipe. 2 : marked by incisive sarcasm a caustic film review caustic humor. Now at this point I should say my grades in chemistry were less than stellar! But salts are corrosive however when heated as in forging what is between two pieces of metal creates a chemical reaction. It is this reaction coupled with the heat and the force bonds the metal together while forging. However that Borax that ends up on the surface will remain only partially broken down and the salts in it. Can and will continue to work on the surface of the metal! Cleaning and neutralizing is the only way to get it off! In my opinion! Next time you experience these cracks. Sacrifice that blade. Carefully and safely put it in your vice at the position of one of those cracks and snap the blade. I would be willing to bet you are seeing stress cracks that are already in the metal. If you see one end of the crack has already beginning to rust that is a crack that was in the metal before you ever started forging! The caustic action of the Borax is bringing those cracks out so that you can see them. As too creating the cracks NO. Like I mentioned earlier the Borax. When the surface has been cleaned and at the right temp, and the right pressure, (IE your forge hammer or a press) it will bond or forge the two pieces of metal together as one! Done correctly you will not see any Borax trapped inside the metal at the bond point, it is consumed by the weld/forging! If that happens something happened in the forging process. Not clean, not a good surface fit, or to hard of blows, distorting the two metals against each other instead of bonding and thus getting the failure Alan spoke of!! Most mild steel nowadays is a Volkswagen or two a couple of pieces of scrap from an old tractor, some leftover beams, etc., etc. In other words they melt down what is on hand and while it is still in the molten stage a test is ran to see what they need to add to the mix to get it too the standards they are trying to achieve. In other words, mild or low carbon it just a mix! And often that mix may less that quality steel. I have seen rebar fail in a high rise and when tested the steel quality of the rebar was less than it was represented to be. What happened the contractor was cutting corners and he did not ask to look inside the gift horses mouth to find out why he was getting this load of rebar $10,000 cheaper than it should have sold for! Rebar at best is a crap shoot. However when it has to meet specifications they throw in Harley or two!! Another possibility is forging at too hot of temp or too cold can cause cracks like you are speaking of! Mild or low carbon steel does not forge well at the wrong temp. If you don't believe that take a piece of flat bar (low carbon steel) and bend it 908 degrees in the vice. It is going to crack all around at that bend. However you heat that same piece of flat bar (low carbon steel) and heat it cherry red you can probably make that same 90* turn and without cracking or checking! Too hot and you will have problems as well. It is all about controlling the temps! Now like I said, this is like the Redneck version of an explanation. So hopefully the experts won't pick it apart too much! Or as my old Chemistry teacher asked me at the end of the first year. "Are you planning on taking Chemistry 2" I had to hesitate for a second and before I could say anything else he says, "don't I will fail you in the first week"! Needles to say I did not sign up for Chemistry 2!!
  23. Geoff, I haven't tried any canaster Damascus but, a thought just popped into my mind! It looks like the heat of welding the final piece to the canister would destroy the release agent by cooking it! How do you keep from cooking the release agent when welding the canister closed??
  24. Gary, that was one gator who didn't mind giving up his pants for such a great piece!
  25. OK thanks for the info guys. Once again I have champagne taste on a beer budget! So has anyone ever used on the mills with a belt and step pullies? There more in my price range! I swear it is hard in this area to find mechanical stuff at a decent price!!
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