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C Craft

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Everything posted by C Craft

  1. When working on knives the hardware takes great amounts of time to make and fit! I can't help but think what an advantage a small mill would be!! Is there a decent table top gear driven (not belt) driven that won't break the bank? I have been told belt driven is a problem when milling. Or if I am looking for a used one, is there a model available that is worth brining home? Something like this but for less money! $3,543.75 That's on sale but............. I still can't afford to spend that much now!! And yes I know you get what your pay for. I just can't afford to pay that for one!! I am looking for something that won't break the bank but is a good working machine!! Any advice anyone?? Does anyone know of any good auction sites that might be worth looking into??
  2. Gary your work is always impressive and this one is as impressive as I have come to expect from your work!
  3. Geoff, that thing is awesome! Chopper on one side and meat tenderizer on the other!! Some of my first knives were made from the steel of a two man saw! My mentor at the time told me that the steel was probably as hard as could get. He suggested that if I was careful with the grind and not let it overheat that it would not benefit from a HT. I made several knives from the steel and they would sharpen to shaving stage. The steel takes an edge and holds that edge fairly well and when it starts to dull a couple of passes on a good stone and the edge comes right back up!! Drilling for handles was not an easy! I had to wrap the blade in a wet rag and spot heat the area and drill. A regular cobalt bit would dull after a hole or two. I bought some cheap masonry bits. By reshaping the the grind on the small carbides to a 135* on the tip they cut pretty good for five or six holes and the heat from spot heating would burn the carbides off of them!! I still use one of those knives and one I sold to a friend. He still brags about it possibly being the sharpest knife he ever saw. He bought it for his Grandson and upon delivery I warned him if the Grandson was not careful he could cut himself very easily!! He still talks about how quickly you can bring the edge back up to razor sharp!!
  4. Thanks for chiming in Jerrod. I am beginning to understand that there are other factors beside the notch itself! It is kind of like welding a piece of the rod to to a section of flat bar!! I made a connector for a mower like I said, by welding a piece of rod to piece of flat bar. I broke it twice but not at the weld but right along side of the weld. In other words the weld didn't fail but the heat of the weld caused a stress factor to the metal along side the weld. By controlling the heat of the weld the third time the rod/flat bar was still in use 3 yrs after the last time I welded it! I get what you are saying! Thanks again Jerrod1
  5. Explains a lot I have been facing True South when doing my quench!
  6. Perhaps Jerrod Miller our resident metallurgist has some thoughts on this subject! I am interested greatly in stress areas created by inside corners. It may be one of those urban legends but it is something I have heard about since I started knife making!
  7. Thanks guys! I have purposely stayed away from the discussion because I wanted to see what everyone had to say. I have cut a similar notch to lock in a guard. Using a cut off wheel to start the notch and a round file to finish out the cut. Much like an upside down U. After all it just needs to be deep enough to give the guard that locking point! When soldered in the solder will fill the inside corners between the metal and the upside down U and it can't be seen after soldering! I felt by doing the upside down U, there was less of a chance of making a stress point! I have also pinned the guard but again that method has its pitfalls! You almost have to make the pins from the same material as the guard was cut from. A slight difference in the make-up of the guard material and the pins, and the pins stand out like a sore thumb!! So I guess I was looking for more ideas on doing a guard. Always looking for the end of the rainbow, so to speak!!
  8. If this is in the wrong place please feel free to move it! I was looking on the net for information about installing guards. So I ran across this video. If you watch the video in its entirety, it is very informative. However my first question came at the beginning of the video! About minute 120 - 128 he shows the blade he is about to solder the guard onto. So the first question the notch for the guard to lock into. I was always told that a notch like that is great place for a stress point to show up! So is that notch a problem??
  9. You know Gary, I always expect your work to be impeccable and yet you continue to impress me!!! I am tuned in for this one!
  10. How do you know you have a good one?? Is it just a matter of plugging it in and if it comes on it is winner??
  11. I have thought about this before using a salvage pump but I have questions!! Most of the time you have an old AC or refrigerator go bad it is the compressor. So how do you know if you have a good one?? So I have to ask how do you salvage old compressor pumps to use as a vacuum pump?? Anyone have a tutorial on salvaging an old compressor pump??
  12. So got to ask what is the black material. Is it just black spacer material?? The reason I ask is it occurred to me the heat build up between the two materials could be problematic when grinding down to shape!! Or is that what you are talking about all the filing! Filing to finish to avoid the heat issue in doing the final finish!!!
  13. When I first got started making. I made a few blades from an old two man saw. My mentor told that the steel was probably as hard as it would ever get no matter the heat treat. Also told me if I was careful and did not overheat the steel I would not have to heat treat. I never had one of them tested for hardness but they had enough carbon content to hold a good edge and when dull re-sharpened with just a few passes on a stone! I found out there was enough carbon in the steel I could not hardly drill it! Full carbide blades would cut until they got hot and then they were done. Discouraged by the luck I was having I set out to find a way to cut the holes for handles!! I finally come up with spot heating and drilling while hot. Spot heating a regular carbide drill bit would burn out in about one or two holes. I went the local box store and bought a dozen 1/8" masonry bits. An old machinist had cued me into using an old masonry bit. He reground them to a 135* which is good for cutting steel. The time I used the bit he reground he told me fast speed and as much pressure as I could put on it! He has since passed and I could not talk to him about the problems I was having. I reground the carbides on the masonry bits to 135* Using the reground bit in the drill press it cut like hot butter for about two holes. However the carbide point on a masonry bit is small and once reground, even smaller. I then tried spot heating the handles with the blade wrapped in a wet rag to avoid heat transfer and I could punch about 4-5 holes before the bit got too hot and I spun the small carbides. If you just have to get through a piece of hard steel it will work! However your only going to get a few holes thru, with each bit! The heat will build on the carbides and they will spin the point off! From my experiences with a full carbide bit, the heat will dull it and you will snap it shortly because, of the pressure you will have to put on it too make it cut. Snapping fully carbide bits got real expensive, real quick!! That is why I switched to the cheap masonry bits. Now all of this experience was gained with 1/8" bits! So not sure how larger diameter bits will react!!
  14. C Craft

    Old Axe

    Check this out. https://www.thehenryford.org/docs/default-source/default-document-library/the-henry-ford-iron-conservation.pdf/?sfvrsn=2 http://www.metaldetectingworld.com/electrolysis_rust_removal.shtml
  15. +1 Brian says! I use rasps, files and the sander to rough shape, but remember David you can always take more off but you can't add it back! Stop and look often. I will dry fit many times till I get the basic shape of what I am liking for that particular knife! Comparing side to side to make sure I don't have one different from the other!! Also when you have the rough shape you like. Start trying to use less and less tools that cut deep. Just like the blade you have to sand all the marks out down to the finish handle. I really do use an oscillating sander to shape when I am trying to get rid of rasp and file marks on a handle I find the round headed ones will flex and get down into the rolls you may create!! By tipping and rocking the base. I have also use an oscillating saw with sanding attachments. basically it is what ever you can use to get the shape you want! Then in the final shape it hand sand, hand sand, ........ well you get the ideas hand sand, and going to finer and finer grits! My handles are usually 75% to finish shape when they go on for glue up! They may be an 1/8" proud on the final size but I always finish 100% up against the ricasso. Or that is always the plan!! Sometimes with the best laid plans you will still get that WTH went wrong!! That is when you have to think on the fly!! Or as they say a do over!!
  16. Here is a quick and dirty drawing of how lines can help you with your shaping! If you are looking for a coke bottle shape of a knife handle! You can start with the two blocks. Measuring out the point as too where you want to take your lines to, gives you a basic idea of where to start and stop with the shaping! Looking at my quick drawing. The top view shows that the roll at the ricasso is not exactly matching in my drawing. So I would have to work at this when shaping. Also I am not crazy about the initial shape itself! So would probably do some freehand on the shape itself. But those lines give me a point to shoot for and use as reference when trying to get both sides to look right!! The fact that your drill press is drilling square into the knife blank is the most important factor! Drill square thru the blank, then take your handle material and put a drop of super glue front and back and align one side of the handle material. Now drill thru the holes in the knife blank and into one side of the handle material! Then take the other side of your handle material align it put a drop of super glue front and back! Drill down thru the first side of the handle material, thru the blank and out the other side of the handle material!! This is why the drill press has to be drilling square. If it is not you will not go thru all that material and come out the other side and that hole be square!! Lessening the pressure on the bit as it is coming out of the handle material will keep it from blowing out the material!! When using something other than a flat block for handle material you have to get creative about keeping the blade square to the drill press table but it can be done!! One way is to use a block under the knife blank that is the thickness of the highest point of the handle material will keep the blank square to the table. However you are also going to have to support the low side of the handle material so to speak!! Now make a reference line from one side of the handle material to the other side! I often use the center of the length. I will draw this line all the way around the handle! This gives me a reference point to go back to if I grind the line out on one side and I can freshen that line around the handle while shaping! That line means I can match the handle material by that reference line at any point in the shaping!! Now put a blanket or towel on your bench and hit the handle material with a dead blow hammer. Since it had only a drop at front and back of the handle material should pop loose from the knife blank! When shaping I use the pins that I will use in the final glue to keep the two side lined up so I can look at the handle without the blade and make adjustments to the shaping as necessary. When getting a handle shaped I do most of the shaping by checking the look on the knife blank. I will dry assemble a dozen times or more. But you always want to finish the handle material at the riccaso before final glue up or you will regret it! The reason I refer to the knife blade itself as a blank is because it the easiest way to reference to the part I am speaking of!! You could be using a blank or stock removal, a forged blade! What ever you use it will need to ground to a flat surface. Or at least it makes it easier to do such! I hope some of this helps some with your shaping woes!
  17. The quick short answer VERY CAREFULLY! I am assuming these are already glued up the way you are talking. So this is the best advice I can give at this point!! Look I have had to go back and work on the front of a set of scales. Cover the ricasso with a thin material, such as sheet metal, brass or similar! Make sure that that the cover material is taped off well, so it can't move while you work on the reshaping! You will have to do the reshape with hand tools such as a file or similar. I have used a file before and then you have to do the finish sanding with an oscillating sander. Whether it be a air model, or an electric model, it will allow you to do the shaping and finishing. It will leave you a thin line where the ricasso and scales meet. You will more than likely have to do some hand sanding but this method will save knocking the scales off and throwing away! You will cuss and discuss,with your self why you did not do this when dry fitting before you get through! Anyway it should allow you to do that finish against the ricasso without grinding into the knife. By the time you are done you will appreciate the valuable lesson you just learned!!
  18. Make sure you drill press drills square! If your drill press is not drilling a square to the material you will never get them to line up! When you work the scales and the front edge use the same pins you will use during final assembly! This keeps both sides of the scales square too each other, while working them. Dry assemble to see if you like the fit. You can leave them slightly long till you get the front or the shape like you want them to look and finish out! Once you like the dry fit then use the same pins to assemble. The finish work at the front of the scales, should be done at the point of assembly because it is almost impossible to do anything against the ricasso without screwing up the blade! From the picture it's not the length as much the problem as it is the shaping. That comes with practice. Sometimes marking lines as to where you want the roll to start and end helps to get the shape more uniform from side to side! Then practice, on the cheap materials till it gets to be second nature! We all have a box, a drawer, a bucket that contains the rejects!! Sometimes it just helps to breathe deep!!! SOMETIMES NOT!!!
  19. To me the picture tells the story, Dave. The rubber looks gooey as you said it was. Something in the environment of your shop caused that! I had some tools that I had put into a bucket while working on my truck! When I went to get them to put them up in their proper place. I was shocked. They were all rusting. I was working on the brakes of my truck and although brake fluid is very caustic. They were rusting even the chrome parts. It finally dawned on me that the bucket I placed the tools in was an old pool chlorine bucket! I chose the bucket because it had a screw on lid! Even though the bucket had been rinsed well, the smell of chlorine was there when I unscrewed the lid. The screw on lid kept the chlorine contained and each tool began to react to it! Being from Florida you understand about the constant humidity! I had a buddy that I was over at his house recently and he was complaining about how all his tools were rusting up! The way he talked it was a recent problem! Walking around his shop I caught the unmistakable smell of Muriatic acid! It wasn't strong but it was there. When I asked what was in that bottle up on the shelf. He replied Muriatic acid. How long has it been sitting there without the cap on it!! To make a long story short the Muriatic acid was what was causing his rust problem!! Another quick story! I once had a shotgun that was laying on a shelf in a cardboard box it came in. A container of gun solvent on the same shelf got spilled. It had ran over to the box that the shotgun was in! The cardboard held the gun solvent to that area of the shotgun and it ate through the bluing and actually etched the metal! This was in an area I was in every day but I never smelled the gun solvent till I opened the cabinet door! Start looking for an open container of acetone or something like methyl ethyl, or some rags you used to clean with and you never disposed of them! I would almost put money on it that the rubber was deteriorated because of exposure to some strong chemical!
  20. Well other than you used my initial's!!! All funnies aside that is a great first knife sheath! You tackled many things on your first that most won't try down the road! The important thing about making a mistake, is learning from it! Also it is only an oh oh, ""if you can't make it look like an intentional"! Again great first sheath!!
  21. Kid when I saw your post on Rob's post of ......... possibly a hobbit sword. My whole day lit up. I haven't seen anything from you in a coon's age!


    I thought you may have passed over the great divide, I haven't seen anything from you in long time. 

    Glad to hear you are still "kickin"!!! Please don't take this the wrong way. I remember talking to you on the phone and it was like talking to an old friend!



    1. Show previous comments  1 more
    2. C Craft

      C Craft

      Kid I am sure sorry to hear about the health. Don't worry about me ever forgetting you! There is some knife makers I can look at a knife and tell right off who the maker was without ever seeing the makers mark! 


      It's that way with your leather work. I saw one of your holsters a while back and I had to ask the guy if "Kid Terico" made that one. He was surprised that I knew the maker!! I told him he has a distinctive style and it's not hard to know who made it if you know his work!! 

      Terry, I will say a prayer for you and yours!!



    3. kidterico


      Thank u for the answer. I am pretty much house bound due to bad health. Can only get around with help. Dont post hardly ever. but like to look at all the great work people are showing. Really miss not being able to do my leather work. My wife is typing this for me. Its such a great feeling to see that some one still remembers me. THANk YOU Cliff. KT   Terry

    4. kidterico


      Thank you. Stay safe. Your friend KT  Terry

  22. Rob I am with you on this one. I have always liked your work and you have my interest on this one!!
  23. Real nice work John. You have got those puukko knives down pat!
  24. I have one I have been using and it has always run and cut true! I bought some new blades a while back. Every since I got the five blades I have had trouble when your tension the blade it immediately makes the blade turn to the left. I had become convinced that something was wrong with the say so I disassembled the thing and spend tow days working on with little success! I did discover that since the blades have run in that catawopased left hand turn it has caused premature wear on the lower blade guides. So now I need to replace them! However today I put the last one of them blades on and even though I had improved the turn. It was still there!! Then it hit me, I never had any problem with the saw at all until I started running that order of blades. I now believe that all of them are a tiny bit undersized! The blades are supposed to be 32 7/8". Lets say they are 32 3/4" or less. You would be able to put the blade on but when tensioned the blade the tensioner would not be over come the short length of the blade!! Has anyone ever run into a bad batch of blades???????
  25. Not a lot of shop time but, boy you sure have the points for,............Honey I need a new hammer, tongs, compressor, er a ....................... Think hard Geoff you don't want to waste those points on a dud! Oh, I need a new power hammer! Isn't funny how your points take a lot longer to earn than they do to spend!!
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