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C Craft

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Everything posted by C Craft

  1. Here is a link for 10" wheel that is for your grizzly. That is what I use on my KMG clone. They have gone up since I bought mine. But when using on a KMG clone sit-up I took it to machine shop and had them cut pockets for bearings. They cut the pockets and pressed them in and balanced the wheel for about $30.00 but then again I new them and I kind of shamed him into! http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-Aluminum-Rubber-Wheel-For-G1015/G9242 Even with having to pay to have the bearing pockets in it, if you get the machine work at a decent price you will still come out cheaper in the long run! The pictures were taken before I got the bushing length right against the wheel, ( thus the space in the pic). A word of caution if you do have bearings pockets cut into the wheel and use bearings. You have to learn just tight is tight enough!!!!!! I burnt up the first bearings by overtighening the wheel!
  2. I highlighted the one sentence in red from your post so I can clarify something. Most dedicated buffers run a slower RPM than a grinder motor. The reason I said I had modified my guard so that I can buff from behind is the direction of travel if the knife is snatched from my hand and believe me sooner of later it will happen. Standing in front of like I would when grinding will flip it up toward my face. Standing behind it will throw it at my feet. Neither is an ideal situation but given the choice I woudl rather have it throw it at my feet! Buffing can be dangerous but most accidents happen when you try to force the piece or are working at an odd angle! Also sometimes holding an old puddy knife against the wheel will break loose the crud. They can become plugged with old bits of metal and that can cause scratchs as well Dedicating each wheel and keeping them clean by bagging when not in use is the best way to handle the problem!
  3. Like mentioned deeping the slots may be a good fix. It actually looks as if the belt is running fairly straight from wheel to wheel. The best way to check the adjustment is a straight ege from wheel to wheel and laying across the platen! To quote what you said, "but i'm still worried there's constant contact" basically there is going to be constant contact is should be as light as possible but the smooth surface of the platen will wear pretty much evenly, especially if you don't hold to one spot and try to move back and forth across the surface. The ceramic cracked because of too much pressure you applied or basically uneven pressure I had to replace one already as I tried to move it slightly as the epoxy was drying and it had already set enough the pressure cracked it. I found the a good bed of epoxy and a board on top of the glass allowed for even pressure, also make sure there is no way it can move sideways as that is what happened with my first one. It was perfect but the pressure somehow made it want to slide sideways as it was drying and once it set. Well lets just say it better be right! Got to go as the race is about to start but will check back on this thread!
  4. Thanks for the info dragoncutlery! I need to do a little more research on this.
  5. Buffing wheels should be basically used with only one kind of buffing. In short if this one is already plugged with something it is best to toss it. As you may or may not know buffing compounds are usually color coded from a light buff to a heavy grit buff. Most knife makers will dedicate a buffing wheel to one kind of compund and when they change to another compound the take that particular buffing wheel off and store it in a plactic baggy. Then grab the next grit out the other bag. When you start mixing different buffing grits on the same wheel you are asking for trouble. Also there are several different types of buffing wheels. Cushion sewn, loose sewn, spiral sewn, specialty buffing wheels, polishing wheels, etc. Take a look at this site from Enco and you will begin to get a feel for what I am talking about. http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRAR?PMSECT=0000000134 Also there are other companies like MSC, Granger, etc. Sometimes buying in bulk saves money on the wheels. A word of caution a buffer can be a very useful tool but in my opinion it can also be one of the most dangerous tools in the shop. A buffer can and will snatch a knife from your hands so fast you won't have time to think. Part of the key is to let the wheel do the work as soon as you start trying to force the wheel you are asking for trouble. Most grinders tend to be moving at too fast a speed and the direction of the rotatiion will send the kickback into you. I have one that I use strictly for that purpose and I modified the guard so I actually buff from the rear of the grinder. If the buffing wheel snags the knife from my hand it will toss it too the floor, instead into my chest of face.! Personally I lke the spiral sewn they seem to last longer, and their isn't as much edge exposed to grab the material from your hands. As they wear down it will wear through the nexrt sewn area and the next layer of buffing fringe is released so to speak. Check out these links to learn more about buffing wheels. http://www.sculpt.com/technotes/buffingtips.htm http://www.caswellplating.com/buffman.htm http://www.doityourself.com/stry/choosing-the-right-buffing-wheel-for-the-job
  6. Pics might be very helpful in coming up with a solution. This is my KMG clone and the platen is my design. The picture doesn't really show it but if you look closely on the backside of the platen mount you can see four screws that can be used to adjust the height of the platen for alignment between the rollers and the belt itself. Perhaps you can take a file and slowly dress down the metal lip. It is common for some wear between the face of the platen and the back of the belt, however undue friction will cause excessive wear and heat! That is where the built in adjustment on my platen come in to play! OK I went back and looked again and I have a pic from the other side of the platen and you can actually see the adjustmeng slots built into my homemade platen! To me this is proper adjustment the platen should lay in contact with the back side of the belt and in line with the rollers. If you can post some good pics of your platen set up maybe some of can suggest a fix!
  7. Dragoncutlery I went back and read evrything I could on the site and it is very informative. You say you made your own stabalization chamber. So I am assuming the jar method didn't work. Is their a danger with a glass jar? Or can a glass jar be used succesfully?
  8. OK I have some quetions, so this is to anyone that can answer! Anyone that has a Cactus Juice stabilization chamber may be able to answer this question. In the video from Cactus Juice, there stabalization chamber appears to be a plexiglass tank with a wooden top that just sits on it. So I am assuming that the top has a rubber gasket and as the vacuum being pulled on it is what creates the seal! Would that be a correct assumption? Next question. Can the Cactus Juice be reused over and over? The video from the Cactus juice says part1 is there more video or is there more to the process!
  9. I don't know how relevant this is but I cleaned some turkey wing bones to make turkey calls from them. Or should I say I attempted to do this. The first time I tried bleach and it weakened the bone to the point where I couldn't use them. Turkey wing bones are small and fragile anyway. Although you would never think it if you had ever watch a turkey come in and land in a tree to roost at night. while graceful in flight they seem to just crash into the tree when they go to land! The second time I tried it I used a diluted hyrogen peroxide mix. I thought it was a success. I dyed the bone using rit dye and made my calls. I guess the good point here is the calls sounded OK. However the end would leave a bad taste in your mouth. Using a wingbone call to produce sound like a hen clucking is accomplished by doing almost like a reverse kiss or light sucking motion on the call is what produces that sound. Any way thebone had a nasty taste, slightly burny taste to it. Even though I had neutralized the peroxide with baking soda, it did not seem to stop the peroxide mix I used. Unsatisfied once again I tossed them aside and after a few days the dyed color began to flake away leaving the a chalky apperance to the bone! I think this was a direct result from the peroxide mix. So to sum this up I have not had any luck with whitening bone with either bleach or peroxide! If you have time to wait you can hang the antlers outside in the most direct sunlight available and they will eventually whiten up. A word of caution if you do this you may need to enclose them in cage of some sort as the little critters love to knaw on them and squirrels and birds will do damage to them! I wish I could give you more but that is all I know from my experiences!
  10. OK, I should have looked at the meausrements a little closer. Your measurements are metric and my brain doesn't function in metric unfortunately so I have to give it a little more thought and I failed to that this time. We began the change over to metric in this country years ago and have never completeled it so my mind was taught the Standard measurement system and have to do conversion to metric when necessary and didn't even think about what those measurement actually meant! As for the blades. You say one had a chunk out of that tell me that it may be fairly good steel. That tells me it was hard enough to snap and not bend. As for the mix of the steel or the lines I really don't know what to tell you. You might go back to the source and see if they can tell you why the lines appear. They should have an idea of what was in the blades, as they were using the blades You say it hardens like glass. Are you saying its brittle, or do you mean that it looks smooth after hardening? It sounds like you may have made a few blades from it! Have you done any testing in them?
  11. Pictures of the blade and the knife you have cut from it might help! Since you don't state what kind of steel the blades were made from I would guess what you have is a mystery steel as far as the blades are concerned! Sence you have not included any pictures. I am kind of assuming here that you are talking a circular type blade Vs a bandsaw type blade. Depending on how modern it it the blade may be a composite material and may not be good for knife blade steel! So until I get a little more info there isn't much help I can give you! Mystery steel sometimes is great if you know what kind of steel you are looking at. Without knowing it is just a shot in the dark as how to handle the making of a knife from it. You may end up with a knife shaped object that won't make a knife no matter what you do to it. It may not harden or it may get brittle, etc., etc.. If you have a great amount of the mystery steel it may pay to have it tested and then you will know for sure how to handle the process of making a knife out of it. But then again that is what makes mystery steel, mystery steel!
  12. My wife had a credit card that has been paid off for a number of years. I was only the co-applicant on the card so I couldn't close it when we paid it off and the closeing of the account fell through the cracks with my wife. Nothing had been charged on it about three years. We however would get statements quarterly saying that we owe nothing. I would open them, and tell the wife you need to close this account and tear up the statement. Till one month one comes with a $300.00 charge to a company I had never heard of. After doing some research I found out it was a TV- evanglist out of Texas. I immediately called the credit card company and once again they would not let me do anything because I was only the co-applicant. After the wife got on the phone they said they would put the charge on hold and do an investigation. About a week later we get a letter stating that the charge had been removed and that is was only a mistake caused by submitting the wrong number by the TV-evanglist. Sure it was! I wonder what the odds are that they accidentally used the wrong number in their submission, (the same exact number as my wife's card)! I know the compay had troubles from a lost computer that one of their employees had but, they said no this wasn't caused by that! It's real funny the account had not even been used in over three years! Do yourself a favor look over ever statement you get from your bank and on any credit cards you have, or you may find yourself paying for some one else funny bussines!
  13. Definitely overkill for a forge but would make one helluva shop heater. I bought one that was nothing but sheet metal and lined it with firebrick on the bottom and a layer of sand. I could get a fire started in it and in a few minutes it would get too cooking and the draft would make the lid bang up and down. Once it reached heat it would glow red because of the thin metal but I guarntee I could heat my 12x28 ft. shop in a short time. Then again here in Fl. it don't take much to knock the chill off a frigid morning! Oh and by the way if it is anything like that sheet metal heater there won't be any charcoal. It burnt so completely it just left ashes!
  14. While it is true that leaving a knife long term in any sheath long term is not recommended. The use of chrome tanned leather as a sheath is no good at all! Wikipedia defination: Chrome-tanned leather, invented in 1858, is tanned using chromium sulfate and other salts of chromium. I have seen knives rust overnight when using chrome tanned leather as a sheath, the salts they use to achive the tanning, react against the metal even with as little moisture as what is in the air. Use the chrome tanned stuff for other leather projects. The rust factor has to be taken into consideration there as well. I had a friend that used chrome tanned leather to make him a possibles bag for his muzzle loader. He put away his rifle after a careful cleaning only to find sometime later that his rifle had badly rusted where the possibles bag had lain against the rifle where it had been stored in the closet! Defination Possibles Bag: The leather bag in which the mountain man carried his possibles. everything from his pipe and tobacco to his patches and balls. What could not be carried in the bag were hung on the bags shoulder strap. Shooting needs were given first priority, kept where they could be found with ease and speed. He also found that any metal items in his possibles bag were either coroded if they were brass or rusted if they were metal! So most definitely the rust factor has to be considered when using chrome tanned leather. Using it as a strop should be OK but I think even then I would clean and oil the blade after using the chrome tanned strop, if not using immediately. Carefully mind you, as if the strop is doing it's job the blade will have a razors edge
  15. I'll bet that gator don't have anything left to say!!!!!! Sorry I couldn't resist that one! Wade, that one turned out sweet and I see you got a jaw bone under it ready for the next one!
  16. One thing to consider if you do have a flame out is that in cold weather propane does not disapate well. It will lay right there in the forge unless there is a breeze to move it. So be careful about relighting the forge if it goes out. If you don't have a wind to move the fumes out throw a fan on for a few minutes, before relighting! Did you see the recent piece on the ESPN reporter who had her barbacue grill blow up on her in cold weather, it is the same principal with a forge!
  17. Absolutely great photo's! Love that country out there! Although I don't think I could stand the winters anymore! Sounds strange since I grew up in Nebraska but I've been a Floridian now for the past 35 years!
  18. Wow that is impressive and I am sure it will mean more to her than anything store bought would have. She will cherish those for the rest of her life!
  19. I really like that Sam! What is the ferule made of? I really like the copper look w/texture!!!! Is it copper? I would love to learn a little more about it!
  20. I use to have a link to a spark chart if I can find it I will post it. Most of the time you will find that files and rasps are fairly high carbon. As for telling what kind of steel that is from the sparks, I don't think no one can tell you that. I will say from the sparks the long sparks with the sparkly explosions at the end indicate it is fairly high in carbon. As for what kind of steel it is I don't know I would take a chance and treat as somewhere in the 1080 to 1090 range and use and oil quench on it. That is the problem with mystery steel you never know for sure how to handle the quench and hardening process!
  21. If you wanting to do coal forge you are headed in the wrong direction! A mailbox makes a good propane forge not so good for coal! IMO This idea with a washtub makes a better coal forge. The washtubs can be bought at Wallyworld or a lot of hardware stores. Check out this link and this u-tube video for a better direction fo a coal forge. http://www.iforgeiron.com/gallery/image/17595-tim-livley-style-washtub-forge/ http://rockymtncollege.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=tutorials&action=display&thread=331 Here are some for a propane forge using a mailbox! http://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?showtopic=23858
  22. Along with what Alan said, I walk with a cane often because of my back injuries and every time I go thru any kind of security they always x-ray my cane or run a scanner over it! The first time I was told I would have to run my cane thru the x-ray machine I looked at the guy and said REALLY! I told the guy he had been watching too many James Bond movies, I don't think he really saw the humor in what I said from the look he gave me!
  23. Well I really don't have a lot of knowledge (as in none,I have never made one) in this field but I am thinking if you use a pressure fit it will be one of those just right situations. The (cane)being of some kind of wood will come and go with the weather will make the pressure fit tedious work. If you use some sort of a spring mechanism it will make a rub mark where it contacts the blade. Embedding a couple of small rare earth magnets at the top of the cane might work. You could embed them just deep enough that they don't actually contact the blade and therefore not making any marks on the blade! Any way there are a few thoughts that immediately came too mind. There are probably some who have more experience than I in this endeavor and perhaps one of them will chime in!
  24. My 02 on the subject. Buy you some 1075 or 1080 from a good supplier and start there. The reason I recommend those steels to start off with, pretty much everyone has the ability to do the work on these steels at home and if push comes to shove you can always send it out for your HT. The procedures for the handling of the steel are known, IE working temps, HT, etc, etc. When I first started I was right there but using unknown steel at best is a crap shoot. You may or may not be able to get it too harden and if you do you do get it too harden, you don't know if it is too the full potential of the steel! The best you can really learn from steel like that is learning about profiling and grinding blade angles. Paint stir sticks are easier to do that kind of learning on! The old saw blades were of better steel but the newer ones with carbide teeth the blades are mostly junk steel. If you have ever run a carbide blade until it got dull and kept working it the body of the saw blade will warp something terrible. It's because the cheap steel can't handle the heat it is being put through. Free steel is one on the hardest lessons to learn. Unless you know what that steel is or you pay the money to have it analyzed you truly don't now the best process for using it, if it is useable for knives at all. A friend once told me you don't know how much that free steel is going to cost you till you make a knife with it! It took me a while at this to really realize how true what he was saying was!
  25. Not sure what the actual make-up of the steel in the old two man saws but by them selves they will make some good knives. The steel is high enough in carbon to take an edge. It doesn't dull down quickly, and and with occasional touch ups will keep a good edge. However I can't answer truly answer your question as too what the technical make-up is! I was told by an old maker that if I didn't get it too hot while working the steel that it would not probably not need a HT. The reasoning of that is this, their is enough carbon too take a good edge but not enough carbon that a HT would to a lot to increase the hardness of the blade! I know from the knives I made from it drilling is almost impossible with out at least spot annealing. I would wrap a wet rag around the blade portion of the knife and take a torch and create a spot cherry. While it was red hot I could drill it! Not real good on the bits but do-able! They would take a scary sharp edge but needed occasional touch ups to keep that good edge when using long term like skinning a large animal!
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