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C Craft

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Everything posted by C Craft

  1. Sid, I didn't look at your profile so did not realize you lived in Spain. I understand now why you may have a problem with obtaining steel specially formulated for knife making. Files made by Nicholson are of quality steel! I don't know if they are available in Spain or not. Springs of an older auto mobile or truck spring steel can make good knives but sometimes they tend to have problems because they are subjected to stress, and may all ready have minute cracks in them. They can also vary wildly in there make-up, which can make the process for finishing to a good knife problematic! If you were getting good results when you were doing stock removal it may very well be the forging! You may be overheating or possibly working it too cold. Often I have seen newcomers to a forge keep working the steel after it has cooled too much. That can cause cracking as only certain metals work well cold with out subjecting the metal to too much stress. Those metals you can work cold that do usually are not good for making knives as they won't harden. Good luck to you ans sorry I couldn't be of more help!
  2. That is why they call it mystery steel! If you would like to finish a blade, buy some good knife steel. For a minimal investment you can buy some 1075, 1080, 1084. They are all good carbon steels and are good to start out on as the type of treatments they need to turn out a decent knife, can be preformed by most anyone. If you don't have a good quality quench oil they can be quenched in Canola oil. If you don't know for sure what the steel is you are guessing at how to treat it. Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't! Look at it this way for the time and effort you have expended on "mystery steel" you could have invested in a bar of good steel and already produced a few good knives! I hear you mystery steel is free but it's kind of like the old saying, "just how much is free going to cost me"! Bite the bullet and make a small order of good steel. For $50.00 to $75.00 dollars you can buy two or three approx. 3' bars of good steel, in the dimensions (thickness and width) you need! Enough to make a couple of dozen knives depending on the size you are wanting to make. Look at this price chart if you don't believe me! http://stores.njsteelbaron.com/-strse-High-Carbon-Steel-cln-1084/Categories.bok?active=leftpanel Once you know the steel it is pretty much a given that there is a step by step process for making a knife from it! Then from there you are learning and refining for the best knife you can make from that! Go here and this fellar will talk to you on the phone and give you a lot of info as well as the will help you out even with a small order! http://stores.njsteelbaron.com/StoreFront.bok His 1084 is good steel and you will know from the beginning what you are getting and the process needed to successfully finish a knife made from it!
  3. OK the first thing you got to figure they may just not have fliped anyone's skirt! Sometimes I look at a thread and I choose not to post as I don't want to say anything to deter someone from attempting another piece. That doesn't mean the knife was bad though, maybe just not my cup of tea! My first knife was terrible and without knowing it I showed it to a MS. He said it looked like a good user! Not knowing better I thought that was good. I was probably the nicest thing he could say. After I saw some of his work I was embarrassed that I had eve shown it. Embarrassed but not deterred! learn from each and every piece. When you hit a home run they will tell you about it! Wayne Goddard's books have started a lot of folks down this path. However I feel they are very rudimentary IMO when it comes to information. There is heck of lot to learn and it doesn't happen over night! So don't get discouraged and learn from the last piece and strive with each new one to make it better than the last. Too many get hung up on free steel. For a minimal investment you can buy good blade steel and it has a chance of becoming a good knife. Every time I change my lawnmower blades or have to pull them off to sharpen them, I laugh to think there are fellars out there trying to make a knife of this China reject steel, when for a little money they could buy steel that they could actually make a real knife out of, given the proper procedures!
  4. This has been an informative thread. Sometimes I look at others work and say that can't be that hard.................till you try it!
  5. one good basic to work on when forging is learning how the metal moves/ steel control. In other words observe what a particular type of hammer action does to the move the metal in a certain direction. The banana effect of hammering out a blade can cause the blade to draw in a banana shape. There are a couple of ways in dealing with that. Onis to do a reverse bend or the other is too keep chasing/correcting as you continue to forge. But doing a little of the first, makes for less of the second. These first few attempts should be more about shape/hammer control than actually making a knife! Who knows you may end up with something that has nothing to with knives but you will come away from the experience with gaining new knowledge of hammer technique!
  6. I will have to let Eric answer for himself but I suspect that may not be a railroad spike but, rather an early nail. I discovered one in the wall of a old house I was working on a few years ago. Unsure of what exactly it was I hung on to it. A couple of years ago I attended a historical event at a local town. There was a small museum about the local economy that was once based on the timber wood business and the local ship building business that went on here at that time, in the early 1800's. In one of the cases that contained several artifacts were some nails used in the building of ships, they varied in materials as well as as lengths and sizes. They look just like the one I found and like the one Eric has there! So Eric is it a railroad spike or in fact something else? As for the knife it reminds me of an Early trade knife made by Sheffield. Check out this site, http://www.waynezurl.com/cat/images/2sheffield.jpg Although most of them had a solid tang! The Germans had one that looked almost identical too that design. As for names I think we all get too hung up on the names of knives sometimes!
  7. I think you are going to find that is way overpowered. The average leaf blower is like a 200mph wind or kind of like facing a hurricane! Think smaller and I think when you finished you will be spent a lot less and be much happier with the end result!
  8. I got this email this morning when I opened my email and I was in a hurry when I posted this, I stand corrected. That is a quote for per. gallon price. My bad!!!! It still hurts the pocketbook! Update: OK, no more playing games I ordered a 5 gallon bucket of Parks 50 Today from Maxim oil. Delivered to my door by Fed Ex $129.39. I figure with oil prices its only going to go up. Ask for Lee or carla 1-817-293-40il. Lee was out but Carla quoted me and then took my order about an hour later, when I got back to my PC and read the email. Great people to work with! That beats the price I have been quoted by everyone else, even my local supplier for another quench oil! On a side note they are out at the moment but will take an order and ship as soon as they receive. She also said that some posts on a forum had generated a great amount of business is why they are out for the first time ever! So guess it does help to discuss all the variables!
  9. ludicrousness : definition: The state or quality of being ludicrous. I am posting this on several sites as I am truly looking for a solution to this madness. I want to have the best product I can produce for my customer but I am not sure I can pass these kinds of pricing on to the consumer. Please read the following! I know you have seen posts by me recently on the forums before about quench oil. I have been on a serious quest to find a quality reasonably fast quench oil. I have considered everything within reason while on this search. I am looking for about 10 gallons of good quality quench oil and I don't really care who makes it, whether it is Parks, Houghton, or some other company. But in my opinion between $ 400.00 - $500.00 dollars for 10 gallons is out of this world! The price of quench oil is through the roof! Here is a quote with the pertinent information removed for privacy reasons for the company making the quote. Note that the actual quench oil is only $40.51 but, the total is $202.50. The rest is fees, hazmat, and delivery. Almost $162.00 in fees. This quote is from a company 25 minutes from me. Look I don't mind a fellar making a profit but a killing is a bit ridiculous! Has anyone got any leads on real quench oil for a decent price? I can't afford this stuff. Please if you do have current leads please either give me a link or names and numbers. I have been emailing the companies for weeks and most won't even bother to return an email! I guess business is so profitable they don't care who they wizz off! Quote Date: 3/3/12 8:56 AM Quote Valid: 30 days Quote #: Quote Rev. TOLL FREE CUSTOMER: C CRAFT CUSTOMS CONTACT: ADDRESS: CITY & STATE: CUSTOMER FAX: ZIP CODE: AMC SALES REP: DELIVERY METHOD DELIVERY ADDRESS UPS NDA CUSTOMER PICKUP SAME UPS 2ND DAY LTL UPS GROUND OTHER ORDER DETAILS : ITEM QTY DESCRIPTION PRICE EA TOTAL DEL 1 5 GAL HOU 341010 HOUGHTON-QUENCH K $40.51 $202.50 1 WK So you can delivery in a week, is that supposed to be a good point when getting ripped off! Anyone got a solution?
  10. Hey now that is way cool! From the pics I can't see the problem so imagine its something you really got to know about too see! I hope the tips I gave you help!
  11. Pics are always nice to help identify the problem. But I will tell you this when it comes to bone and antler for that matter they are both porous and will both pick up any kind of impurities such as (bits of steel). When handling them if you are looking for a clean (white) look, wear gloves to keep your hand oils and any other materials from transferring into them. When sanding or buffing you will need clean buffing wheels and sand paper. Don't use a piece of paper that has been used for anything else and dedicate one buffing wheel to that use. Keep the area where you are working clean from any foreign debris or it could end up in the bone. Once you get them to a state you want them to be at you can seal them with CA to prevent them or should I say (aid this in not happening), while attaching to knives or other use while handling them against other parts such as metal. Once it gets into the pores it is almost impossible to get it out. It can be sanded out by sanding through the top layer and constantly changing paper, to avoid reintroducing the foreign matter back into the bone. Hope that helps!
  12. Chris, I think I am the one that brought that up in reference to following the leak back, in reference to my father-in-law checking for gas leaks with a lighter. However he expained it one time that he only did it on a system once it was initially pressurized. That way it didn't allow for gas build up, (which can cause an explosion). That goes along with what you are saying about the expansion theory! In short what everyone is telling you David is follow a few precautions and always check for leaks before ignition and you should be relatively safe. It's when you get into a hurry or complacent that accidents happen. As for lighting a forge its best to have the ignition source ready before turning on the gas this way you don't have to worry about gas build up. Some use an igniter like they use on a BBQ. Like this one, http://www.simsupply.com/p-946-gas-grill-ignitor-kit.aspx However in my experience they tend to not work after too long. I use a torch already lite or one of these http://www.cvs.com/CVSApp/catalog/shop_product_detail.jsp?skuId=355827&productId=355827&WT.mc_id=Shopping_Feed_Products_Google_Free_Listing
  13. I can kind of understand the phobia as I grew up with gas and still have a healthy respect for it! One of the worst incidents I have ever had was right after me and the wife were married. After I got out of service we rented an old apartment that had gas heaters. The one that was in our kitchen was temperamental about lighting. If you turned the gas on too high initially it would not light, and once lighted you had to slowly turn up the gas. One cold winter morning I lighted the heater and it being real cold I didn't give it that extra time before opening the valve up all the way. It blew out the flame. Instead of closing the valve and waiting for the gas to clear I reached and light up another match. And you guessed it when I put the match to the heater it blew me across the room singeing the eyebrows and some of my hair. My own stupidity I knew better just was in a hurry. With proper precautions and common sense, they (forges) are no less safe than firing up the BBQ. It's already been said check any connections with a spray bottle of soapy water. If there is a leak it will start to bubble. If you use in inside you will need to have ventilation. In a recent post from one of the sites there was a guy talking about the last couple of times he forged he shut down his forge and went inside, to basically pass out and wake later with a bad headache, and no memory of shutting down the forge. He went on to say that this happened a couple of times, and asked what was going on. Well I would say this, "God wasn't ready for him". He was more than likely suffering from Carbon Monoxide poisoning! So if using inside and even with ventilation a Carbon Monoxide detector would not be a bad idea. But then again this is where common sense comes into play! Not having the bottles in close proximity to the forge itself has been mentioned and not a bad idea. The idea of the explosion is from a leak that creates gas build up. My father in law who has since passed on use to test for gas leaks with a lighter. It would scare the hell out of me every time I saw him do that. But the theory there is that as long the leak is under pressure, (it will ignite, not explode unless there is a build up), my biggest fear was that the flame would follow back to the source! But that is neither here nor there just a thought! I store my bottles in my shed out back of my house. They are in a special built carrier I made so they stay manifolded together but I always check connections on the tank and on the forge once hooked before I ignite it. This is my homebuilt forge and the tank sit up! Hope this helps feel free to ask any questions!
  14. Geoff thanks for the info! I knew as soon as I looked at it that you must have fabricated a lot of it. I didn't think those springs could be under that much tension,(it would scare the he!! of me to stand in front of them if they were). I just couldn't wrap my head around how you had bent them! I like the fabricating of something almost as much as I like building knives. If I could afford I would have a fantastic shop!
  15. Geoff, after looking at the pic of your hammer I just have to ask, that spring, it is bent that way correct................it can't be under that much tension..........can it? Is your hammer a complete build or did you start with another hammers frame? If I had to guess I would say you almost completely built it from scratch! It looks sort of like a modified version of a Little Giant Powerhammer, not that I think about it!
  16. I am not sure what is happening but you better figure it out before it's too late! Blacking out could be a lot of things but none of them are good and especially if your out there by yourself. Get someone to work with your or at least come check on you! Put up a video camera to record what is going on, maybe that will help you figure it out. But I am going to say the third time may not be the charm!
  17. Some due by the temp by eye according to color but the best way to do it is with a thermocouple and a PID controller. You can usually find them at a decent price.
  18. I have not tried it but I would ass u me that a 40# tank would work as well as the two 20#. In other words the bigger the tank the better. What happens is that with the small 20# tanks the constant large volume pull will cause the tank to experience freeze up and the flow out of the tank is compromised! Next time your are BBQing lay your hand on the top of your tank after you have been using it. It will be ice cold even on a hot day. It is the flow out of the tank that causes that. It has to do with the chemical change between liquid and gas that causes the tank to get cold. Refer to this http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Propane You can actually tell the level in the tank by feeling where the cold begins and ends. The area of the tank at the top, where it is cold is above the actual level of the propane remaining in the tank. With a high pressure regulator like you use for a forge it will be even worse. That is why two manifolded together will reduce the freeze up problem because you will be pulling from both tanks equally at the same time thus reducing the freeze up factor on either tank! Thanks for the comment Mark. I was trying to come up with something that allowed me move the tanks out of the garage when not in use and into a shed where there is less chance of accident occurring if there was a leak. This sit up protects them and allows me keep them manifolded together when not in use even.
  19. The 20 lb. tanks are OK as long as you manifold two together and then the propane is being pulled from both tanks. That will eliminate freeze up! Here is pics of my setup. I made this carrier and it is easily rolled around on a dolly so I don't have to store the tanks in my garage but can easily move them anywhere I need like this.
  20. You need to fill out your profile it makes it easier for those answering questions to be able to tailor their answers for your area! A word of caution the first few times you fire your forge let it cook very slowly and shut it down to allow for the material to dry throughout and slowly. In other words just warn the first few times. Each time the heat gets longer and hotter. But if you don't do this slowly it will crack badly. The first few times you do not need to be close by as it will take a few time to do so but the galvanizing on the tub needs to burnt off and you do not need to breath those fumes as they can release a chemical that coats your lungs and keep you from being able to breath. In other words the galvanizing can be toxic till it burns away! Good luck in this obsession!
  21. Jake is this the same man? I used his name and the cities name and this is what google came up with! If it is it doesn't mention his knives. I would love too see a pic of the knife that you are speaking of! http://jukebox.uaf.edu/RavenStory/htm/sh.htm
  22. UPDATE: 9/10/11 I used the clamp yesterday and the clamp preformed great with my KMG clone. I just wish I could say the same about my grind lines. I guess its like they say its a learning curve! Two sets of the carbides strips. 3/32"width x 5/16" thickness x 3" length. shipping included cost me $31.41, $5.60 1/4" x 1/4" x 3' length mild steel bar, and two stainless steel 10/24 cap screws $3.80, total cost $40.81, I already had the JB Weld. Satisfaction that I did it my way, priceless! The only thing I might have done differently is too have ordered the strips in a 3 1/2" length. However so far this is not been a problem!
  23. I had the same idea. I had a file guide that had only been used once twice before it broke. The maker said it was only one of three out of a hundred that he made that broke. So he considered it fair wear and tear. What ever!!!!!!!!!! I am still out the money and used twice doesn't fit for fair wear and tear in my opinion. Anyway I set out to make my own. Here is the result. The body is mild steel. I figure no more than the piece moves when clamping it I would use mild steel for the body. Their is less chance their is of breakage when tightening due to the steel being heat treated. Besides a well known knife maker clued me into that one! The carbide strips came from this site. You can order them in different thicknesses and length. http://www.msdiscount.com/columnar.aspx?cat_id=8678&session_id=217119613&category_site=STARTOOL&referer=http%3A//www.knifedogs.com/showthread.php%3Fp%3D25778&compidcookieset&sessioncookieset Here is the pic of my new guide. The carbide strips are epoxied with JB Weld, my theory is that if you are cooling the blade properly while grinding the guide will not get hot enough to cook off the carbide strips. I really have not tried it out yet as I have been down with the flu but don't know any reason why it shouldn't work. Two sets of the carbides strips. 3/32"width x 5/16" thickness x 3" length. shipping included cost me $31.41, $5.60 1/4" x 1/4" x 3' length mild steel bar, and two stainless steel 10/24 cap screws $3.80, total cost $40.81, I already had the JB Weld. Satisfaction that I did it my way, priceless!
  24. I like it! Two thumbs up!!!!!!!!!
  25. I use the pewter from Roto-metals that has been mixed with the lead free solder to make pewter bolsters and such. The tin in the solder makes it a little less soft than pure pewter. I mostly use it on the 1800's to early 1900's period pieces I build, but have used it on a few others. Here is an example of a knife with a pewter bolsters that is not a period knife! Click picture for a larger view: Like someone said it is not really a requested medium for knives that are not considered period knives!
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