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C Craft

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Everything posted by C Craft

  1. Wayne I had to go to another site to find this but here is one way of telling if the piece you have is wrought iron or not. Cut it half in two or slightly better and bend it if it looks like splintered wood its wrought! Check out this thread http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/831544-Wrought-iron-how-do-you-know-it-s-wrought-iron?highlight=wrought+iron and scroll down to a post by G Shaham there is pic under his avatar, click on it and you will see a round bar of wrought iron that has been cut half in two and bent the part that was not cut looks like splintered wood. That is the properities of wrought iron that gives it a look of having a grain to once it is etched after forging for use as guards and such. I hope this helps!
  2. Pecan is a hard wood, even though it is on the lower end of the hardness spectrum. I use to live on a farm and we had a lot of pecan trees so any damaged and blow down was cut up for firewood. You need to check out the the figure in a piece of crotch wood. You will be shocked at how beuatiful it is, and how hard it is. Almost makes me sick now I think of all that I burnt for firewood. Hey but I was warm at the time.
  3. OK Alan by solid fuel you are refering to coal or charcol I would assume! Thanks for the heads up as I was hoping it might work with my propane forge. Due to an accident the lining was messed up and now I have to replace the k-wool and was looking for a cheaper base coating on the wool. Then I was planning on going over with something like Ins-tuff Ceramic-Fiber Rigidizer and top coat that with Bubble Alumina Refractory Coating: Would it work for a base coat on the k-wool? But I don't want something that isn't going to work as that ain't cheaper its a PITA! Thanks for the heads up.
  4. So I have a questions on this subject? Do you add anything to the kitty liter to make it a useable refractory? What is the easisest way to grind up large amounts of the kitty litter to make a useable powder?
  5. When using 1080 as your chosen steel to work with. 1. What is the proper thickness for leaving the knife blanks edge before getting into normalization, HT, and tempering. 2. Does this vary with the thickness of the material you are using? IE 1/8" or 1/4"
  6. Sam I may be wrong here but I think he has using it as a heated quench and storing it somehow confused. I'll go out on a limb here because I do not use a brine quench. However like most quench mediums they tend to work better when brought up to heat. Now I am not for sure about brine quench but I think I have heard that some if not all like to heat it before use! But like Sam says its salt water and it doesn't need to be stored hot. Some use a stainless steel pipe as their quench vessel and that limits corrosion. Or I have heard of some letting it cool and putting into a plastic storage jug. However as with any quench medium that sounds like a big PITA to me. Salt is inherently going to be a very corrosive mixture therefore I suggest good quality stainless pipe as a quench container and use a hot rod to bring to temp or a heater to bring to temp, and use the vessel as storage as well!
  7. Hey wasn't trying to scare you. I did construction from the time I was fourteen and thought I was healthy as a horse. I had my first heart attack around 40 so I was supprised to find out that I had a heart blockage. So now even though I could probably have counted the times I had been to a doctor on both hands before the heart attack. Now I don't fool around even if it sounds silly I mention it to the doctor, you see I go regularly now. It sounds like its a good chance it is the CTS. I don't have trouble with the hands but the shoulder that I used to swing that framing hammer all those years bothers me nowdays! Good luck!
  8. That story is priceless! I have made a few throwers like that already!
  9. Listen to the advice and get your butt to your doctor. At the very least it costs you a co pay or a small visit payment and the very outside chance it was a sign of something worse,” it might save your life"! Have you any history of heart trouble? My heart doctor is constantly asking me of any sign of numbness anywhere! I never even knew I had my first heart attack. I had a history of indigestion and acid reflux so I thought that was what was going on. They caught my first heart attack on a routine electrocardiograme in preperation for my back surgery. Three heart attacks and two stent operations later I don't ignore anything anymore! I like the thought of hanging around to aggravate everyone for a while longer! More than likely it’s the CTS. I did construction for years and I have what I like to call Carpenters shoulder! It comes from swinging a heavy framing hammer for year’s, day in and day out! I have trouble with it from time to time.
  10. Inclusions were one of the main drawbacks mentioned by the MS that offered up the advice. I had not thought about it but I can see where this would be a problem. Look I think I have to learn to crawl with Damascus, then walk, and then run! Therefore I am going to try a straight laminates out of something like 1/8" 1080 and .50-.70% 15N20. My thanks to all who have replied to this thread. I am already learning and hopefully one day I will have personal knowledge of the subject to impart on someone inspiring to make Damascus!
  11. Well first off I was not trying to be impolite to anyone! Since I did not know anything about trying chain Damascus I figured the Beginners Place would be a good place to post this topic. I was only looking for the advice that experience teaches you! I have learned over the years that you can save yourself a lot of headaches by learning from the experiences of others. When they take the time to tell you where they made their mistakes! I truly have done some research on Damascus and I do get the basic process for Damascus but was unable to find out a lot about the chain Damascus. Never having seen either process done or done it myself I was just trying to take a little of the curve out of the learning curve. I have already learned that this may be above beginner’s level. I did not realize that chain Damascus was even more complicated, than regular Damascus. It just seemed like a good use for the large number of chainsaw chains I have acquired over the years. I got a post on another forum and he agreed with Dave saying that chain Damascus was not a good place to start. He also explained why and now I really do get it! This gentleman took the time to explain the why the chain Damascus was problematic and then explained the entire process. Thus allowing me a starting place if I felt I wanted to pursue chain Damascus. However his first offered up this advice. "My first suggestion would be to not try chainsaw chain right out of the gate....there is just too many variables, and lots of potential for failure. Straight laminates are the way to start out....your chances for success and learning are much greater. Something like 1/8" 1080 and .050-.070" 15N20. I always try to do some research on something I know little about to aid in learning. So I think I will take his advice and start off with a straight laminate Damascus. Thanks to all for your replies!
  12. I want to attempt to make some Damascus using some chain saw chains that I happen to have. So there it is I have the want to and the chains. Now what is the process from there? This is not something I plan to do tomorrow. Right now I am doing my research into the process and trying to get materials together1 Can anyone tell me what would be the best steel to marry the chainsaw chains with? I will be working with limited knowledge and hand forging, and doing oil quench. So please no exotic steels that require quenches that I am unable to do at this time. This will be a first attempt for myself so if I seem clueless, I am! I need someone to kind of walk me thru the entire process, because at this point I am not sure where to start. Or for that matter even how to handle the chains. I mean it is not like they come in a bar state. Do I start by hammering the chains into a bar? Should I flux the steels while welding together? Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Before you bash me, remember we were all clueless once! I am posting this on a couple of sites so as too solicit as much knowledge as possible on the subject.
  13. Kool That is just the kind of responces I was hoping for. One other question what metals are you using Canola oil on besides 1080 with success? If you don't mind divulging trade secrets!
  14. I know a bunch of the purist just cringed out there but, I have been told that for 1080 is about as quick as you can get so I intend to try it! I want to get my feet wet at a low cost entry point! My questions are on how it needs to be cared for: I don’t really want to get into the hassle of collecting it back up and refrigerating it when not in use as someone else suggested! Can I just pour it out in my quenching vessel and leave it there? (In others words will it go rancid like vegetable oil?)Will it handle the temp changes in my shop without creating problems? Does it need to preheated for quenching? (If so, too what temp?) Anything that else I should know about using Canola as a quenchant?
  15. Hey don't knock the goat pee, but the real secret is too give the goat a salt block to munch on and that way you get a brine/pee solution. Of course the afore mentioned goat pee can only be collected on the third night of a full moon! It must be a full moon and not a new moon phase or the collection coud get you kicked by the goat!
  16. First things first look at the top of the beginners section for this thread, How to setup and use photobucket. http://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?showtopic=17266 If you are looking for an aged look on a stock removal piece there are several ways to accomplish it. After completion of the knife the aged look can be obtained by coating it in mustard, horseradish, or similar medium. The vinegar that is in the product is what does the work. It may take several coats to achive the look you are looking for and it takes practice to get a consistent look. Bleach will help to age a blade and though I haven't tried it I know of one who says he boils the piece in a water diluted mixture and plunges into cool water to achive the effect. You will want to coat down in a baking soda slurry afterwards and then wash again. This will insure you stop the acid in the vinegar and the bleach from continuing to work on the metal and doing things you don't want! If you are truly looking for a forged look on stock removal I think you will have to use a hammer to to get the forged look. It is the hammering that gives the metal the rougher texture. The part you can't duplicate is the heating creates scale. I have used a hammer on some things( never a knife) to get that look but it takes many a soft blow of the ball side of a ballpeen hammer to get the look to come out right! ( And truly it is not exactly the same as forging it out but it is probably as close to the look as you'll get without forgeing). Hope some of that helps!
  17. That sound 100lb chunk sounds like the makings of good post anvil!
  18. Thanks for the advice guys. I already know about the best belts are worth the money. I use to do construction and used a 4x24 belt sander alot and know a good belt beats cheap ones hands down!
  19. I hope to complete my KMG clone soon, and since all my blades have been basically done by hand previous to this have been done with files to this point! I have not had to cross this bridge myself as of yet. The consensus seems to be that it is best to learn to grind freehand! OK here are the questions: Do you grind blade up or blade down and why? (I see videos of it being done both ways) When grinding freehand do you use an additional aid attached to the blade for control? (reason for asking is I have broken my left wrist along time ago and it sometimes gives me trouble doing certain rotations) I have seen pictures of a clamp 90* to the blade that one fellow uses to allow for more control of the blade while grinding!
  20. If I am reading the markings correctly C Hammond Philadelphia, Pa. is a company that made cast steel hammer heads, cobblers hammer heads, and broad axe head in the 1800's. Beyond that I can't seem to google up a lot and I am not sure about that info as I could only find a references to C Hammond Philadelphia. Beyond that I can say that if the head is cast steel which I suspect it it is. You can take your time and cut the head for weight without overheating you may not need to heat treat. If you rework to shape, then you will probably need to harden for use as neccessary! There are others on this forum that can lend more advice on the subject if they will join in.
  21. I have never heard of the Oneida Dust Deputy! Could you please elaborate a little on it how it works and such? I goggled and see a pic but there is no explanation as to how it works ! I think that the very reasons that make the sheet rock dust I mentioned is so bad on shop vac. One it is so very fine, it’s like the finest of powders and it attracts and holds moisture, and the chemical makeup of gypsum that makes up the material. All of those reasons make it an easy killer for a shop vac. The filters plug readily with the dust and once it reaches into the motor and the bearings it is a set up for disaster. I have seriously been entertaining the idea of getting on for the grinder but was afraid it would be a waste of time and money. Now I am reconsidering the idea!
  22. I have a statement and then some questions about shop vacs. I used to to do construction and one of the worst things on a shop vac. Was when ever we started using a shop vac to clean up the fine dust of sheet rock work (it usually meant that the vac was not long for this world). It seemed no matter how often we cleaned the filters the very fine dust created by sheet rock would slowly plug and kill the vac. So what brand of vac and what size of vac are you using to suck up the fine metal particles with? How well does this work and are you having a problem with it shorting the life of the vac? How often are you having to clean out the machine? I have been seriously thinking of getting one for the shop but I am torn about the right choice for the job!
  23. However the Lansky system allows for optional setting per side. Setting are as follows: 17*, 20*, 25* and 30* per side. The book provides guidelines on which setting is prferable for the type of blade you are sharpening! Once I looked at the system to me it is a "no brianer"! I have always been able to put a pretty good edge on any most any knife. However the biggest problem most folks have with sharpening is the angle of the blade to the stone. With the Lansky system that is built in to it. Stop and think about it. Lets say you put 30 strokes on a blade per side, on a good stone. Let say of those 30 strokes per side only 15 were at the exact same angle, then actually how much have you done to sharpen the blade? The first knife I sharpend with the Lansky System I sent out with a warning to the customer about the sharpness of the blade. He emailed me back upon getting the knife, that was quite possibly the sharpest knife he had ever had his hands on and wanted to know how I did it! Hope that helps!
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