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C Craft

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Everything posted by C Craft

  1. Welcome! Now with a picture of all those chisels, there should be a few pictures of some of your work to go along with them.
  2. My Grandson is 19 months old. and I have another on the way in June. So yes Papa is grinning from ear to ear. I can't wait thill they get old enough to take them hunting and fishing!! I live about 30 min. from Pensacola depending on the traffic and those dern cops! We used to race at Southern Raceway in the Street stock class. Back then we had around $8,000.00 in the car and after two years and a new engine closer to $10,000.00. It got to be a good night when you were still able to drive the car on the trailer and not winch it on, or there wasn't a pile of used and wrecked parts on the trailer! That's when my son decided it was time to get out, and I didn't try to talk him out of it. Although I do miss it some today! Enjoy your trip and there is always time to talk about knife making,just ask my wife if I can't find time I make it!!!!!!!!
  3. I have started this three times now and well they say the third time is a charm! Now that I have my grouchy grandson laid down for his mid morning nap maybe, I can finish it! My daugther had to be at college early this morning and I don't think he appreciated losing the extra sleep! First let me welcome you to "God's Country"! I live in N.W. Florida just out from Pensacola. I have read your bio and you are a busy man. We even have some things in common. My son is a deputy for the neighboring county and me and him used to race dirt track together. When I first decided to get serious about this knifemaking a couple of years ago I did the same thing, looking for classes and such. I think the only thing I found was some black smithing classes being taught in Mobile, Al. at one of the local colleges but I couldn't match it up to my schedule. However this quite a few makers and inspiring makers such as myself. On this site you have this section, it may help to connect you with someone. http://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?showforum=27 Here are some other sites I frequent. My handle is the same on all, (C Craft Custom Knives) except for this first one on the list, I go by Dixieblade57 over there. http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/index.php http://knifenetwork.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=18 http://knifedogs.com/index.php (this one has a heading at the top, go to the Community heading and click, when the drop box opens, click on social groups, when that opens click on Florida Dogs, all makers from across the state) They had a hammer in this past Jan. in middle Fl. but was unable to attend due to the wife being ill. http://www.customknivesandguns.com/ckgforums/index.php Above all WELCOME to the insanity of knifemaking!
  4. I thought I would add this as a long after thought. With out the aide of light box which you can read all about in your research. Here is a little to look at on the subject: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=328550 http://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?showforum=12 I have had my best luck with outdoor lighting. I don't have the most expensive digital camera. In fact it is one I bought for my wife and I borrow it from time to time. I have learned one thing though. If the picture is not there in the view finder of the camera,"you probably missed it". ! The camera is a Cannon, Power Shot SX100 IS. As cameras go not the most expensive. However the accompanying program that came with the camera for editing pictures sucks. I have another cheap Kodak digital camera that doesn’t take as good as pictures but has a much better editing program. So I swap pictures back and forth to do the proper editing. However it is like I first said, if you don’t see it in the viewfinder, "you probably missed it". I may take a half of dozen pics from one angle trying to capture something and when I get them to edit, I usually only find, maybe one that really captures what I was trying to get, and sometimes the feature I was trying to capture totally alludes the camera anyway! Good pictures sell a knife like you were seeing it in person. The only thing a pic can't do is let you handle the knife and if you do a good enough job with the pics, they won't care that they didn't actually get to handle her!
  5. I agree with Dee you can talk all you want bout a particular knife and without a good pic it doesn't mean a thing. If you are selling online your pictures do all the talking!
  6. Well I like it, upturn and all! Kind of thought you were shooting for one of these styles with it! http://www.crazycrow.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CCTP&Product_Code=5426-040-500&Category_Code=841-200-010 http://www.crazycrow.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CCTP&Product_Code=5426-070-525&Category_Code=841-200-010 Never have figured out the purpose of the big hump on the back side of the first blade, unless it is for more steel when constantly sharpend like this one. These knives belonged to my wife's Grandfather he was a half blood Creek indian. He ranched back when they had open range in Florida, and tended all of his own meat processing. As you can tell these knives have been well used and almost all have his initials on them. It was common for a bunch of the ranchers to get together and do the butchering for several families at one time, thus the initials on the knife handles. I rescued them from an old box in a shed on my wife's family farm, where they had been stored for many years. Alot of these knives are homemade from what ever was on hand. I think #5 from the left may have been made from a handsaw. Note the hole at the point and it is thin material. From the left check out #2 and #6 for the profile of the knife. #6 is probably a Green River skinner like the first link I posted. It has seen it's way to a water wheel many a time! Keep up the good work and sometimes that curve is supposed to be there. It all just depends on what you are shooting for.
  7. SWEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEET,Gotta love it!
  8. I was just trying to put a humorus spin on that story! I mean come on think about it. Stop and think of the force needed to break a horn or a heal off of an anvil! I would rather believe that the picture showing the damage to the anvil had probably two factors. Gross abuse and quite possibly a flaw in the original metal.
  9. Aw come on Alan, I had this beauty of a story worked out too! You know the one where the Yankees had this great ape that they hauled around in a Ox drawn wagon and they took him from plantation to plantation and they would ask the “Southern Belle that was always present at such a plantation if they had any anvils. And of course they would respond in their best Southern Belle’s voice, "why I shore do you mean ole Yankee" at which time the would unleash the great ape and he would take his four hundred pound sledge hammer and break the heel and the horn off of the anvil. And then the Yankees would...................
  10. I have never tried this before so, I have got to ask some questions. Are you fluxing the material in the can and if so with what? When making the can what is the thickness of the material is the can is made from? Why doesn't the cardboard you refrenced catch a fire from welding the can?
  11. I don't know what the make or brand of those screwdrivers are but my Dad use to have a set or them. I guess all that got sold at the estate auction. They are heavy and extremely tough!
  12. So this leads me to ask the quetion what is the best bang for the buck in IR protection as well as UV protection. Surely there must be someone out there that specifically makes glasses for this application. (IR Protection) My eyes are bad enough I don't need to screw them up worse! Then I won't be able to hear or see!
  13. I ordered too many materials when I built my forge these items for sale are new and unused one or both for what I have in them. For Sale: 1" Thick Hard Fire Brick: - Size: 9" x 4.5” x 1” thick - 3000 degree temperature rating Great for sacrificial floors in a forge, sliding closures for forge door openings, or a hard surface to lay work on in a horizontal forge lined with Inswool. 6 ea. hard firebricks includes shipping, USPS Priority Mail $40.50 Insurance will be an extra cost If you want Insurance on this package, please let me know in advance, this will be sent FOB Origin, meaning, the buyer will be responsible for filing any insurance claims for replacements, and USPS (in particular) will only pay if you have selected insurance! For Sale: 1/4" Brass Ball Valve: - C.S.A. certified Forged Brass Ball Valves for Propane Gas - Use these for gas shutoff in your Forced Air and Venturi burners! - 1/4" Female NPT threads on both ends. 2ea. for $19.50 includes shipping ¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬ If you are interested in one or both items send me an email at craft5759@bellsouth.net Place in subject line (Forge materials If interested in both make me an offer and we will see if we can do business! The fire brick have Sold!
  14. I tried to sign in yesterday late and it was like the site didn't exist. This morning all most evrything was computer code and I got back out of the site. Seems to be up and running now though. Computers you got to love them. Dont you?
  15. I can't see anything but red X's!
  16. Sweeeeet! I love the natural light. Great view I am afraid I might be tempted to let my mind wander in such a setting. Love the shop dog!
  17. A sawsaw or sawsall was one of my favorite tools when I use to do remodel and repair type construction, and I could make one do things it was never designed to do. However I am going to suggest that it may not ideally designed for what you are doing with it. The blades tend to pickup heat fairly fast no matter what kind of blade you use and heat build up it the real problem. The only way to get around that is the use the blade like a handsaw. By moving it in and out on the metal to share the heat with the entire blade. Even though the blade itself moves back and forth the heat will be concentraed to a small area of the blade because of the stroke of the saw. However when trying to move the blade back and forth in the cut it is very easy too move it to far and let the blade get out of the cut jammming it against the metal and bending or breaking the blade. As suggested a metal cutoff blade on a right angle grinder works well as does a metal cutting bandsaw. I have roughed out many a blade with a grinder. And with a bandsaw the blade rotates around to share the heat buildup and that way if you don't force it the teeth do all the cutting!
  18. What host are you using for your photos? I use photobucket and it all depends on which code I use. I can do a thumbnail like yours and then I always tell them if they clik thumbnail it will open to larger pic. Like this hanlde I have been working on. Click thumbnail for larger view: Also I think there is a way to do it with the features that you find at the top of box where you type your post. In the same line with the B I U, just to the right of the smilie there is an insert link, insert image,etc. etc. but you will have to ask someone else exactly how to it that way as I have never tried to put a photo in a post that way!
  19. OK, I may be stupid but where and how to go about adding a quote to the bottom of your posts. I see post that seem to have quote at the end of their posts. I have looked through evrything under My Profile and My Setting and if it's there I am overlooking it! Is this the same thing as a signature? If not I apologize for putting this here! but still would like an answer if someone can help me out!
  20. My first attempt at boiling to straighten an antler was not real successful. I did not boil long enough and did not clamp it down tight enough! The second was a success. The key seems to be to bring to a boil and hold at a boil for 30+ min. or so. I uusally try to hold for about 45+ or - minutes. That means a large pot of water, or boiling another pot of water to keep adding to the pot with the antler. I would not recommend doing the boiling in the house, as Mama ain't going to appreciate the new fragrance it develops. Don't ask! Have your vice ready with a couple of pieces of wood duck taped to the jaws and move quickly from the water to vice. Once placed in the vice and tightening begins it's Break, Bust, or Bleed time. In other words you crank as tight as you can pull! Don't expect a cylindrical object to come out flat, as it will imbed itself into the wood some. However it will come out a lot straighter than it went in. I like to keep it clamped for 48hrs. This allows for it to dry and no I have not had one that I done in this manner try to rewrap. The keys are the long soak (boil) and patience about taking from the clamp! I have not tryed adding vinegar to the mix but knowing Chuck's expertise in this matter I would be willing to bet it will work!
  21. Since no one has taken a shot at this. I will throw this out to you. Most sheaths are sewn the rivets are mainly for looks. Here is a thread that will explain about riveting a copper rivet. I am assuming that is what you are talking about. Getting a good pein on a rivet is kind of an art. Here is the link. http://www.forth-armoury.com/research/peen_rivets/how_to_peen_a_rivet.htm As for conchos some are sewn on and some have a thread stud back. Using this on a sheath I would recomend an inner piece of leather sewn over the threaded stud that comes from below the stud to the top of sheath. Or as you suggested a thinner leather liner for the whole length of the sheath. That would be best to keep the blade from hanging as the blade is sheathed. Here is a sheath that I have done in a Mountain Man style. It is not riveted but adorned with brass tacks. Click on the thumbnails and they will open to larger photo. It is rawhide over leather, sewn with artifical sinew.
  22. Great pics! Love the display of Confederate Bowies! Where was the hammer in held?
  23. Hey Sam I see you got that 3 1/2 lighter Bowie finished. Man that tuned out great and the outdoor pics reallys show it off. Congrats that really looks nice Sam!
  24. The friction folder sold. So guess somebody besides me like the 1800's style. I feel some one got a good deal. The knife was too cheap in my opinion but wanted to move it. The sheath work is worth what the knife sold for. I want to build up a grinder, I am tired of doing my first knives by file and a belt sander made for woodwork turned upside down. I am begining to realize how important a good grinder is in the making of a knife!
  25. Thanks for the good comments guys! As for the patchknife that was a piece of steel that was left after cutting some blanks out of the two man saw. I hate to throw away anything. I guess that makes me cheap! So I begin to look at it and this is what became of that scrap.
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