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C Craft

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Everything posted by C Craft

  1. I have had these two knives finished for a while. I am trying to put together some money for a KMG clone build. So put the them up on Fleabay. I won't post a link to EBay since I am not sure that is proper! I guess you either like 1800's style or you don't. I wanted to put them out for a look see to get opinions of my work, since I had never shown them on this forum. In fact I have never posted any of my work so this is a first! The sheath work is done by myself also as I feel a knife is kind of naked without a sheath! The description of the knives are below with pics. If you click on the thumbnail it will open to a larger image. Ball Grip Scalper Knife with Rawhide Sheath This is replica of ball grip / scalper knife. OA length is 11"; blade length is 6 1/2". The blade is made from the steel of a two man saw, good carbon steel which will hold an edge. The blade has been acid etched to give it an aged look! The handle is Maple with, a cow bone insert on each side. On one side of the insert, engraved into it, is a wolf's track and on the other side Indian prayer feathers. The sheath is leather covered Rawhide, sewn with sinew and adorned with brass tacks. The second knife is an 1800’s Friction Folder / Patch Knife This knife is friction folder with a 3” blade designed to replicate a patch knife used by the trappers and traders during the 1800’s. The body of the knife is Whitetail antler. The steel is from a two man saw, good carbon steel which will hold an edge. The blade has been etched to give it an aged look. The sheath is an over the shoulder or neck style. It is rawhide over leather, sewn with sinew and edged with fringe. It has been adorned with beadwork and jingle cone. Both are replica knives. I hope you enjoy looking at them, and appreciate your feedback!
  2. I am not sure what your problem is but I am thinking one of the moderators can help! My problems ended when the forum went to this new format/look. The forum would not recognize me, before the change to the new look, I had to log back in for three months or viist as a guest, no matter if I deleted all cookies and evrything else, I was told to do. The problem seemed to fix itself, with the new format!!!!!!!!
  3. "Ask and you shall recieve": In no particular order here is my list. http://ronreil.abana.org/design2.shtml http://www.arscives.com/bladesign/forge.tutorial.htm http://fredlyfx.com/large%20propane.htm http://fredlyfx.com/progress.htm http://forgegallery.elliscustomknifeworks.com/ http://www.zoellerforge.com/sidearm.html http://www.blacksmithsdepot.com/Templates/.../164_CFM_Blower http://www.rayrogers.com/blower.htm http://www.ccallis.com/black_iron_fittings.htm This is pretty much everything that I have bookmarked in my forge and burner design file. There is info on venturi style burners and blown burners. I had pretty much decided I wanted a propane forge so begin doing my research. I bookmarked each site and made alot of visits before and during design. This ought to keep you busy through a cup a coffe or two! Some of this will raise as many questions as it answers, so don't be afraid to ask!
  4. Problem still continues 7/20/09. I have to log in evrytime I come back to this site. Can anyone shed light on the fix? Is it just me or does anyone else have this problem going on?
  5. Well that would explain the confusion!!!!!!
  6. OK, DFogg, I got a problem even though my screen name is appearing as C Craft I am still having to log on as CC Knives. I just had to log back in after shutting my PC down and like to have never figured out what was wrong.
  7. I want to go by C Craft. Not a big change but this is what is on my knives. Can you help out ? I don't see an option to be able to preform this without getting off the forum and resigning up!
  8. I apologize if this is not the right place to put this but here goes! The tittle pretty much says it all. I am trying to get all of my forum names under the same name as I am using on my knives. When I signed up I just sort of picked a name like a screen name, now I want to standardize my log in name as my knife signature name. Where or how do I do go about this
  9. Dido, that's why I said a picture of two might be worth a thousand words.
  10. Pics of the victim would help to identify the perp! If you know what I mean!!!!!!!!!Pictures of the break and and the grain at the break.
  11. Damn Dave, that baby is turning out to be one awsome piece, and I was not a real sword connaisseur, but this project could make me lean toward a sword someday. I am new at forging and doing alot of experimenting so am following this post closely. Really great work!
  12. Ray that is finer the frog hairs!!!! Really sweeeeet and I vote for large knife.
  13. Check this out. http://www.tpub.com/content/construction/1...ss/14250_21.htm
  14. Back to the origional question, I am not sure if this is what your looking for or not because this has a different purpose but this will make your kitty litter hard, so it might work for what you are trying to do! http://www.gizmology.net/greensand.htm
  15. I think Geoff is right about helping freeze up on the small tanks you have to manifold the tanks to keep them from freezing. Here is a link to a site that handles manifolds as well as other parts you may need. http://www.zoellerforge.com/flare.html Scew to the bottom of the page and you will find the manifold assembly. You can also get them at some RV dealers, they some time use them. About the only other way to beat freeze up is too upgrade to a large tank.
  16. Zinc coating or galvanized pipe can be extremely dangerous. In short breathing the fumes coates the lining of the lungs and impedes the ability of the lung to expand and contract, ( as in taking a breath). I seen it first hand nearly kill my Dad years ago. You can burn off the galvanizing but it is best to use the least amount of it it in your constrution. Here is a link to another post and some recommended sites for refractory coating and general info. This is from some advice I gave to Kurt in his post, How to forge(techniques), and Kurt glad to see you heading the advice and spreading the advice! Here is a list of different places to get refractory coating as well as regulators and some informational sites. I owe no allegiance to any of them so don't think I am plugging anybody's site, these are just some I have in my favorites file. Look no one is trying to be @$$ here. I just hate to see anybody esp[ecially a young man get hurt!!!!!! http://www.dfoggknives.com/forge.htm http://www.zoellerforge.com/ http://www.hwr.com/ http://home.comcast.net/~eellis2/EllisCust...s-mainpage.html http://www.hybridburners.com/ http://rayrogers.com/forge2.htm I see progress but the idea is SAFTEY NOW! Good luck with the forging when you get your problems fixed up! This post has been edited by CC Knives: Jun 11 2009, 06:56 PM
  17. Everytime I leave the site I am logged out and must login again everytime I return. I didn't use to have that problem has something changed with the site. I cleared all cookies, shut down and rebooted. Once signed in I left and right back to the same problem. Must sign in again!!!!!!!!! Anyone know what is goin on?
  18. Here is a list of different places to get refractory coating as well as regulators and some informational sites. I owe no allegiance to any of them so don't think I am plugging anybody's site, these are just some I have in my favorites file. Look no one is trying to be @$$ here. I just hate to see anybody esp[ecially a young man get hurt!!!!!! http://www.dfoggknives.com/forge.htm http://www.zoellerforge.com/ http://www.hwr.com/ http://home.comcast.net/~eellis2/EllisCust...s-mainpage.html http://www.hybridburners.com/ http://rayrogers.com/forge2.htm I see progress but the idea is SAFTEY NOW! Good luck with the forging when you get your problems fixed up!
  19. I commend you for jumping in with both feet here. But please take some advice from well meaning folks. I was once young and bullet proof too! Saftey first, even when you do everything right, sometimes it still can go wrong. Protect eyes and ears when they are gone they are gone. The unregulated propane is down right dangerous. The unsealed refractory coating is just plain crazy. The fibers get into the air and you constantly inhale them. Once in the lungs they are there. They don't go away and with time they will imped the lungs ability to expand and allow you to breath, as well as setting you up for lung cancer later in life. You asked what you are doing wrong and everytime someone mentions the dangers of what they are seeing you basically scoff at them! Take a little time and shut down and put saftey concerns first and then go back and learn what you need to about the actual forgeing of a piece of iron or the wrist may end up being the least of the problems. I am not preaching here just trying to tell you have got your priorities in the wrong order. A racing analogy: "To finish first, you must first finish" The way you are going at it you may cross the finish line but, you are going to kill yourself doing it, and no matter how great a knife you produce it's not worth it!!!!!!!!
  20. Tim thanks for the reminder about gloves and mask. I may be just a newb at this but I will tell this much. All refactory material such as inswool or kaowool should topcoated as once it is fired the fibers of the refactory, can and will be come airborne by any distubance, such as use of forge. Can we all say very bad for the lungs, saftey first! Thanks for the water bottle tip HSJackson, I knew it too but had let it slip my mind till you mentioned it! I had kind of envisioned that it would self supportive by the stiffness of the material and had figured the top coat would help to stiffen. However it's better to be safe than sorry!
  21. I finishing my forge here are some pics of it. I just about to install the inswool but a question has cropped up in my mind about that! As You can see it is a cylinder when I wrap the inside and top coat the inswool will that keep it in place without sagging of falling? Or do I need to go inside of the cylinder and weld something like wire spikes/j hooks sticking out to hold onto the inswool, (for lack of a better discription, kind of like a porcupine that is inside out), only not as many quills? Refer to crude drawing if still lost as to what I am talking about. As you can see the ends are made so that if the need arises I will be able to lift them, they will also have inswool installed in them. I guess what I am asking is if inswool is cut large enough that compression will hold it in place, will it stay there without additional need for another means of holding it in place! I know this may sound stupid to some but my concern is with either the inswool won't stay in place while top coating or will fall or sag after use. Or does the top coat make the inswool firm and somewhat hard after top coat dries? Anybody got any insight into this subject they want to share?
  22. I want to thank evryone for their insight and info on this subject! I have been doing totaly reduction knives to this point, so forging is new to me. Is that correct? The plural of forge wouldbe forgeing or forging, guess I should have really payed more attentiond in English class all those years ago! I can see already that there is no one set of tongs, that is what you will use all the time, but like many newbs I am on a budget. So guess I should have said for starting out which would be the best first one tong to buy! Sometimes I guess I tend to over think these things! Thanks again evreyone.
  23. This may be a dumb question but, like they always say the only dumb question is the one you didn't ask; so here goes! I am about to fire up my forge for the first time and even though I have done some rough foring on some tools and brackets using a long handled set of pliers, I am now ready to invest in a good set of tongs, to do my knife forgeing! Out of the little experience I have had forging, comes this first question. 1. If you have a flat bottom in a forge how to you go about picking up the piece you are forging? I remember it very hard to pickup the material with the long handled pliers that I used in my first foring experience, as you can't get the bottom jaw under it! Now I realize the design of the tongs will allow me to get a better angle at the pick up but if you cant slide under the material, you will chase the piece or at the very least struggle with the picking up of the material! 2. Do you lay your material on a raised piece on the floor of the forge? 3. Wouldn't that cause it too warp? 4. I have thought about taking the fire brick that I am using and cutting a gouge in it for the tongs to slide under my material. It that a plausible idea? My thought on that is the brick will break at the point of the gouge, since the fire brick I am using is the 1/2 tickness brick. 5. Last question if you could have only one kind of tongs / which one would be best for a beginner, what would you choose? Please give me links to the afore mentioned tongs instead of just giving me names, that way I will know for sure what you are refering too, some names refeer to multiple tongs. I know I could make my own and may do just that later. For now though I want buy my first set of tongs to allow me to forge my own later, if that is what I decide to do when I have a little more experince forging. I don't mind paying good money for a quality set of tongs but I want to buy something that is the best tool for the job!
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