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K Freier

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Everything posted by K Freier

  1. Not a beginner project, but make a lathe, and few more mills? Lucky guy you.
  2. The analogy that works for me is for the steel to look like melted butter,this is with the flux on.When looking into my coal forge I get the steel about the same color as the glowing coals.
  3. K Freier

    Scythe making

    @ stewart I think that the reason they do the peening, is to work harden the iron, then sharpening is done, if at all.
  4. Use your forge as an anvil? All just because you can't find the tongs?
  5. Yep, cleared cookies and it works , Thanks for replying.
  6. The recent topics tab on the side of the main page doesn't show any new topics, and this is the feature I had previously used most. Was this intentionally dropped or is it just my computer.
  7. How did you do the blackening on the blade?
  8. I have a question, Do you pipe smokers think that the homegrown tobacco is healthier than the cigarrette type? Some of my relitives smoke, and I was wondering if it would be a safer step for them toward quitting if they were to use a pipe instead?
  9. K Freier

    Moth...

    Hows it flip? looks really good.
  10. What is the melting point of that alloy, and did you have to worry about heat transfering into the blade or charring your wood?
  11. I am Intrested in a Dvd also, what is the ball park figure for this 4 disk set?
  12. Ive got some questions about what happened on this special, The crucible you used for the Wootz, Did you make it your self? When you quenched, you pulled it out when it was still hot, especially the tang, Did you go to water or something to prevent the heat in the tang from creeping up into the blade? the bloomery iron was just leftovers from a run , or did you make that batch special for the show? I feel like they left out some important bits. Other than that Ric helped me educate my roomates, on how blade making works. Great Job!
  13. When you say cast, do you mean the 4% carbon stuff or Iron as in low carbon steel?
  14. Id like for my next big project to be an italian styled side sword, From what I understand its sometimes called a transition rapier,as a cut and thrust sword. Are there any specific points to try to hit,like blade witdth or lenght, weight, that would differentiate it from longsword ? Really what i am asking for is general guidelines on historic examples, which of course vary. Any input is appreciated.
  15. Sam, what the heck are you talking about?
  16. How long have you been making knifes? All your life? This shows a LOT of talent.
  17. You've really got something special here. It too catches my eye.
  18. Bend testing? cut 3/4 of the way through then bend see if it looks like string cheese? I haven't played with any yet.
  19. !!!!!Really listen to the others advice before mine.!!!!!! !!!!!Read books.!!!!!! try to understand the key terms before hand, Anneal, Tempering, normalize. What I would do goes along the lines of a SWAG. One thing that really will help is using a known steel, your leaf springs "may" be 5160 or it might be something entirely different. If I were to use 5160 !not from a leaf spring! i would just start forging, with the forging range being a bright red to medium orange as seen in dim light. hammer the steel to the max desired thickness using a straight or cross pien, then forge the tip. The preform for the tip would be made by me hammering at 45 degrees to the face of the anvil, into the top corner(when the bar is held on edge), occassionally reducing the thickness in an effort to get the other corner farther out. then bevel the steel by holding the bar at an angle to the anvil and the hammer at that same angle but from the steel. this would be done on the side with the farther out corner, and it would cause the bar to warp along the spine side. To fix this I would tap the flat part of the bar with the hammer flat to the anvil, which when done the whole length would hopefully make the whole thing straight. Then I would form the tang through forging or with a grinder. Normalizing should happen at this point, or if you like things to go easilly annealing. What I do for normalizing is heat the entire thing to nonmagnetic, then just a tiny bit hotter. air cool to black, repeat with slightly less heat 2 times. This would be called a triple normalizing. Clean up the flats with a grinder or files, then the bevels with files. sand to 220 ish. leave the edge slightly thick appx. dime thickness Make everything as finished as possible because next is hardening. Again heat as evenly as possible the entire blade area, to just past non magnetic, then carefully and quickly put the whole blade into hot vegie oil, (200 f ish ) wait untill its the same temp as the oil. Now carefully and gently remove it, and wipe some excess oil off, then using a file, gently see if it is hard, if the file doesnt bite, its hard, or your file is really dull. Carefully move to the tempering oven(here a kitchen oven.) now comes the individual part, if its a precision cutting knife, it can be hard, and tempered at 350 ish. if the knife is to be a heavy chopping knife, you make the oven hotter, 450 perhaps. Either way leave it in there for 1 hr, air cool on a safe surface like your stove. repeat one or two times. Tempering is the thing i have the least experience in so others advice is prefered. Now using sand paper or being slow and carefull with a quality belt sander/grinder bring it to a cutting edge. Polish. Make your handle, or cord wrap etc. assemble, call it done! Anyone who knows better, can correct me, and make me better too.
  20. The steel type your probably looking for is 5160. I've never even heard of a 5016.
  21. its aluminium, had the same thing happen to me.
  22. That right there is a fabulous looking knife!
  23. Due to a recent conversation with a friend, I am looking at making a socketed spear or two. The advice I need is about attaching the spear,and the aproprite wood to use. My first attempt at a trial spear worked kindof, but the wood kept cracking in/ near the socket. My processing for that one was: Take the socket, get it hot, press onto a round unknown type of wood that I drawknifed to shape. Remove, cool, press back onto the shaft, drill holes and pin. When you make socked spears how do you go about attaching the spearhead, do you use pins? what is your method of making the shaft round? I understand the ash, oak, hickory and maple would all make good shafts, what do you use? Thanks!
  24. ANy chance we could get a video of that awsome looking folder opening/closing?
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