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Tony Havard

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About Tony Havard

  • Birthday 02/20/1975

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Grand Bay, AL
  • Interests
    Enjoy all types of steel fabrication, especially forging blades!
  1. Love it Wade. The Coolibah really gives some nice contrast between the guard the Elk Antler, plus I'm a sucker for iron fittings myself...love the aged, rugged look.
  2. Just to echo what everyone else has said, Excellent Find Serge and might I say that she is a beauty! As far as the age of the anvil, if you can find someone on here that has Anvils in America by Richard Postman, they should be able to look that up for you. I personally do not have it yet but I'm sure someone does. Maybe give Alan Longmire a shout...if memory serves me correctly, he has some knowledge of anvils.
  3. Ok, for anyone interested and for future reference, when converting to a high pressure regulator from a low pressure regulator, you must use a full flow POL. The POL is the fitting that connects to the propane bottle and in most cases on into the regulator. I paid about $9 for one yesterday afternoon at my local utility gas company and within seconds of lighting the forge I recognized that the problem was resolved. As a matter of fact, it has never burned so well. Just a note, be careful when taking a POL off of another regulator (if you use this setup), and using it on a high pressure reg
  4. Sorry Matt...I was in a hurry typing and used the wrong terminology...not psi...volume. It seems to happen off and on at times. Last night I had it adjusted good probably twice and the forge came to heat within roughly 5-10 minutes. At that time (in both instances) as I was doing minor adjustments to get that crisp burning sound that we are all looking for, it would seem that I would overadjust the air or underadjust the gas (in this case was neither) and it would either go out or the gas volume would drop down to an unacceptable level. In the case where the gas volume wasn't there to
  5. John, I guess that could be the case and I'm going to check it. I'm now thinking that since a standard torch acetylene line is a 1/4" line, it's not large enough to get the psi to the forge. This also makes me think that if I were to put a low pressure regulator in the line after the high pressure regulator, then I might get back to where I want to be. Just thinking out loud.
  6. I thought that I would present this problem to some of you guys that may have ran into it before. First, a little background. I built my new forge about a year ago using the very similar technique that Don has posted and as many of you use. It worked great. Then this January I moved to a new place with two new shops and within the last few weeks I began putting things back together for forging. Before, I was using a low pressure regulator (preset like one that goes on an outdoor grill)straight off of the propane bottle. Instead of hard line, I ran a soft line (acetylene hose)from the r
  7. I'm wordering if anyone has any historic information concerning the technical specifications for a Pompeii Gladius sword that was used in the Roman Empire. I understand that the blade length runs from 16-1/2" to 20" with a blade width of between 1-3/4" to 2-1/4". It is also a double edged blade and I'm not sure the steel type is know other than high carbon. Does anyone have any information on blade thickness, length and angle of the chape, type of wood used on the guard and pommel, all era specific. I have been asked to make this for an instructor at a college for historical purposes. Any
  8. Tony, I don't mean to lothe in comment, however, I do tend to like your name as well! I haven't had the honor of attending the ABS school, but I have had the privilege (as some may call it) to be significantly involved with steel since I was a young squirt, let's just say at least 20 years experience, and it is far more difficult to remove a stamp than an etched mark. Typically, etches aren't as deep as a stamp, however, it seems technology is increasing the possibility of them being equal more and more as time passes. Quite honestly, I prefer the stamp technique because it seems true
  9. It seems to me with students as creative and with an eye for the work, bladesmithing and blacksmithing could be stronger in the future than in era's that have passed. I am very impressed with their artistry and I must say, the teacher must be doing an excellent job as well!
  10. Cyrus, It's a really beautiful folder! I really love how the mammoth ivory continues a pattern of the damascus into the scales much like a dark flame look. Very nice and thanks for sharing. Tony
  11. Thanks guys! All of this information is very helpful. I'm going to continue reading and researching and if anyone else wants to post, please by all means do so. Not only is it a big help for me, but it will be a big help for others that look this topic up in the future. Thanks again, Tony
  12. Beau, Thanks for the info...it's a big help. If there happens to be anyone else reading this thread, here is a link on how to build an electro-etcher yourself if you are interested. It seems to be a pretty good tutorial. http://www.chriscrawfordknives.com/CCK/Etc...ial/Default.asp Tony
  13. Geoff has a good point about the air. I use a $10 Dollar General blow dryer on my forge. I bought it, took it apart, removed the heating coil and diodes and wired the switch straight into the motor, cut the plug off the end of it, crimped on two flat electrical connectors and run it off of my 19V craftsman cordless drill battery. Runs for hours and hours without ever pulling down the charge. Now back to Geoff's point on air...I cut a slice out of one side of my intake pipe (my piping is like the Don Fogg setup also), and made a small aluminum wafer to allow more air or less air. I've foun
  14. Edgar, I saw a couple pics of your blades yesterday with the etch in them and they looked pretty sweet! How much did you pay for the electroetcher and stencils? I thought about making my own stamp, but I'd end up make a couple of them, plus the time it would take to do something in that small of detail, plus heat treating the steel so the stamp would last, plus dealing with displacement of metal in the blade... You probably get the idea. Although I'm not a big fan of modern technology in my blades (even though I run a N/C cutting shop on a daily basis ), I might give in to the pre
  15. I was wondering what some of you use to put your name or stamp on the ricasso area of the knife? Do you engrave it, stamp it?? If you stamp, did you make your own stamp or have it made and what process did you go through to have the stamp made? Attached are several sizes of what I designed it to look like. I do a lot of AutoCAD design, but it's kind of a simple stamp. Tony name_stamp.pdf
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