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John N

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John N last won the day on June 20 2016

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About John N

  • Birthday 04/18/1975

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    http://www.masseyforging.com
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    Male
  • Location
    Manchester UK

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  1. John N

    rebar 01 sandwich

    O1 does not need many excuses to split down the core when sandwiched in a 'san mai' construction! Normaise lots before heat treatment, and don't overheat before quench.
  2. John N

    damascus

    Some of the 1" wide pallet strapping is hardenable steel, and quite good fun to play with when patternwelding as its such a useful starting size! test quench and snap a bit before you get to carried away with a billet though !
  3. John N

    2018 What are your forging plans.....

    will do Owen, Ive noticed its about every 4 years...... I will try and run with it this time
  4. John N

    2018 What are your forging plans.....

    Ive recently taken my first commission for a chefs knife, from a knife nut chef, So I will be dedicating a lot of time to the million minor details that elevate something above 'meeeh' standard of work. Something looking pretty wont cut it with "those guys" both physically, and metaphorically. We have bought a new house, with just enough room at the back for my own little workshop, so that will be built (as a finishing shop / mancave) - hot shop will stay where it is. Hope to get to forge a chefs knife to shape, without 'corrections' from the pre-form, try and get it effortless. Wind seems to be blowing strongly in my sails at the moment, so going to capitalise on it in '18
  5. ive been recommending ISO 32 hydraulic oil for 10 years. Anything heavier and they snot up, especially the 15 kg machines. A 'non brand' hammer direct from China will cost you approx 50% of an anyang from a dealer, (once you have copped for all the import / logistics costs etc) the rub is that they are really badly made, the factory support is shocking, and they will have issues, not if, when. Then you are basically into guess work, or relying on internet help from well meaning folks who are shooting in the dark. (or the odd anyang dealer / bladesmithing hammer engineer who is a bit bored, and slightly intrigued by how many corners can be cut making a hammer shaped object )
  6. John N

    Blade warping O1

    * ahhh, just thought of a semi suitable analogy, its like bending a candy bar, a bit..... maybe..
  7. John N

    Blade warping O1

    If your grind is not even it will pull one way or the other no matter what you do ! For thin knives (kitchen) I harden first, then grind the bevels in. Not that much of a chore with modern ceramic belts. Remember you get a min or so to straighten any warps immediately after the quench, before it goes 'snappy' - I wear a a pair of the red welders gauntlets when I quench a blade, when its quenched, but still hot (guess 100 deg C or so?) a quick wipe with a rag, and then gentle 'push with thumbs' to take out any warp. Its odd, the blade feels different to me when its quenched, but before the M has finished forming. If you gently bend it to a new shape it just holds it.
  8. The check valve on the lower control valve could be faulty / not seating properly. The valves run through cast iron tubes that are pressed into the frame, one of these might have grabbed onto the valve and rotated a bit in the frame. The 'ball' check valve ( the one visible when you remove the ram cover) might not be seating / missing / or gasket obstructing the air passage (cut out) that provides the pneumatic buffer to the ram. The sleeve that the compressor piston runs in might have moved a bit vertically, changing the compression. The air 'supplement' holes (behind the 2 small square covers on the compressor end) might be obstructed. Oil has probably got something to do with it, incorrect grade / quantity consistency of supply etc. It might be a combination of a couple of things Its incorrect to say they are simple machines, the more you get to know air hammers, the more you realise you dont know everything about them ! I've worked on forging machinery 25 years, and still learning a lot about it !
  9. You might find the performance of the hammer worse with new piston rings. It takes the rings a long while to 'bed' against the insides of the cylinder. You will witness this on the old rings / wipers with their 'wear' pattern, which is really just bedding. IIRC your hammer is only a couple of years old, occasionally used ? it should just be at the 'bedding in point' not replacing them point, that should be 15 years in the future !
  10. John N

    First Kitchen Knife

    Lovely clean welding on the chain ! its nearly a seax'y kitchen knife
  11. John N

    Back in the game

    good to see you back at it Alan, very satisfying looking couple of pieces of work - hope you and yours are keeping well.
  12. Its a spring loaded cast iron wiper, sort of the opposite of a piston ring, as it pulls in against the rod with pressure from the spring, rather than pushing out against a cylinder liner. I do not think the 'assembly screws' coming loose will affect the performance of the hammer. They are only in there to allow it to be assembled. When I have been in a bind before I have just used 1/2" of matchstick to hold it all in place when the piston is re-assembled, with the reasoning that when it works its way out, 1/2 a matchstick will not damage anything. Once the piston is in position, the wipers can not collapse inwards, hence it just being an assembly screw.
  13. What did TZ say ? if you move the handlever a bit is there a position that the tup stays at the top ? most likely to be mechanical wear to the faces that meet to arrest the valves in a certain position to keep the the 'top setting' position (or floating ram or what ever they call it in chinglish). If you can find a handlever position where it stays at the top you will need to adjust the faces by welding up or whatever. There are no gaskets in the hammer that would cause this. I dont know where that information has come from. Piston rings, maybe. The Teng Zhou hammers I have seen were constructed to such a terrible standard nothing would surprise me when you get into it a bit.
  14. The solid stainless machined burner flare on my welding forge has pretty well eroded to nothing due to how hot it gets ! The burner stays cold at the gas injection end though, I assume that is because of all the cold propane, and air that is whistling down it.
  15. John N

    Issues with First Damascus Welds

    I have found success improves greatly if, after you have done your initial welding passes you chuck it straight back into the forge, let it get back up to welding heat and let it have a good soak at temp for 5 mins or so. Gives all the layers a chance to get to know each other before you start putting more work into the billet.
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