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John N

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John N last won the day on February 9

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About John N

  • Birthday 04/18/1975

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    Manchester UK

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  1. pretty well nothing left of the material stuff Alan. Got 10 years worth of drawings we have used as PDF's though. I bought an A0 scanner, and our rule has been if you get a drawing from the archives, you scan and label the file, both by drawing number and hammer type / part description. We tried as best we could. The rolling mill might be OK so long as the crane does not land on it from 40' up! Im pretty stubborn, and want it running, so one day, running it will be!
  2. Im gritting my teeth, and sifting the debris in a still smouldering building for tooling etc, got another couple or 3 days before the demo crew hit my bay, as they have started the 'make safe' 4 bays away, ie mine will be the last to be levelled, back end of this week at a guess. It looks like my Massey 2 cwt, Little chinese Woody, and some of the other small Masseys I have can be rebuilt. Some not easily, but I will try. The anvil collection is still there, dont know how hot they got though. My rolling mill is super scorched, and annoyingly in the main bay big bay which was hit hardest, Its sitting underneath the carcass of my 20 ton crane which is balancing up there somehow. Demo lads have got to drop the crane with a massive grabber / snipper on a huge excavator, hopefully they can shove the crane, or mill away from each other before it drops. Demo lads seem great, are supportive, and have said they will do what they can to save the stuff I care about rather than just 'mashing' through the whole lot. Hope springs eternal.
  3. They are OK! they were in the 'reception' lean to at the front of the building, which you can see standing in the video
  4. At the moment, this is too big to bounce back from. There is a demolition company coming in tomorrow to knock the remains of my factory down. I hope to salvage a couple of my personal power hammers if possible form the rubble.
  5. what fire does not take, water will. This is the best bit of the shop thats left. i could not access the rest as the building as is about to collapse. (all the day light in the back of the pic, used to be the roof of my main factory)
  6. Thanks for the nice words everyone! Looks like its pretty well 100% gone. Demolition crew are starting knocking down the remains of the building in the morning. There is a tiny glimmer of hope that I might be able to salvage a couple of power hammers once the building is down, they look scorched, flooded and sad, but might live again. My little knife finishing shop on the other side of the estate is OK, which gives me a bit of comfort.
  7. all gone I think. Heading down there in a bit
  8. Nice to see you back ! I saw a facebook post from you recently that raised loads on interesting stuff on globalisation, and regimes of different countries, and nearly commented, but did not want to break my own no politicking rule on FB! - hope its a bit more restful for you on here for a while
  9. At a guess its about 5mm thick x 25. (it might even be 6 x 30 mm) - just what was lying around when I made them. Its way too thick though, makes it tricky to get the workpiece in there. I am going to cut the 'U' off the end, and weld a new 'U' piece in about 3 mm thick to make them a bit more forgiving.
  10. In my finishing shop (which I regard as more likely to catch fire, grinding with dust extractors etc) I have a dry powder and CO2 outside the office, which is at the furthest end from the door, and another CO2 and Powder by the entrance / exit door to the yard. My hot shop has a large CO2 and Dry powder in the forging area. I pay a company to advise what is needed, buy them from them, and pay them for an annual inspection & report they have been inspected. They also ensure the correct signage is by the extinguishers. Using a pro company is not much more expensive than guessing what I need, and sourcing them myself. The annual check on them is not expensive, might be 10$ each. Gives me piece of mind, and one less thing to worry about !
  11. When I do it, yes, it stays on. I generally have a very high success rate and the stub stays on until it ends up effectively forge welded into the long flat billet. I am very aggressive forging damascus on larger power hammers, you just need to be mindful to not stress the weld, IE, keep everything square.
  12. Whist I am rambling on about this, in my feverish, sore throat, and dry cough stupor.... I have a lot more success with welded on handles if I can lay down the weld in a straight line (not welding round a diameter. This also maximises the weld area and penetration. So, in your example, you are welding, say, 1/2" rebar to 3/4" sq. Forge the end of the rebar down so its, say, 3/4" x 1/4" thick flat, grind the end square, then weld the handle to the work with 2 x 3/4" long fillets. You can then orientate the workpiece to the anvil so the stick welds are vertical, ie, you are not flapping the weld joint like a hinge.
  13. If a starting billet is 6" long x 1.5" high x 1.5" wide, you would need a pair of box jaws to securely hold 1.5" square. A pair of 1.5 sq tongs will also suck heat out of the bit they are gripping. Not desirable. You would not then be able to weld the full billet in one pass, as the tongs are gripping one end of it, so you would need to take a 2nd welding heat, grip the already welded end (possibly with a different pair of tongs, as the section has changed) and forge weld the other end. Much easier to weld a stub on the end, say 3/4 - 1" dia, and grab that with a simple pair of tongs !
  14. Mig is just a glorified glue gun. Tig way to much finesse required. A decent stab with a 6013 with the amps wound up is my method of choice ! I dont bother with pre-heating, by the time Ive shoved the rod in, the whole weld area is red hot. deep penetration from MMA is the boss for this application! Let it cool slowly, A couple of tricks ive found help, - Maximise the weld area, for example instead of welding a re-bar cut at 90 deg, to a piece of spring cut at 90 deg, cut them both at 45 deg. - I try and scarf the 2 materials (like the 45 deg thing above) so the first thing I do when out of the fire is forge weld them together! - The main separator of welded handle on material is overloading the weld joint through poor forging practice (technique). On a power hammer I can keep a grip stub attached for many heats, by ensuring the work piece is kept flat to the dies, so its not flexing the weld joint. Same on the anvil with a hand hammer. Ive prepped billets for other people when teaching / showing how to do something (and worked an identical billet myself), and my welded handle lasts the duration of the project, Theirs is flapping about after a couple of heats. Practice!
  15. I use 6013's - you can dry them out a bit if they are splutery!
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