Jump to content

John N

Supporting Member
  • Content Count

    620
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    13

John N last won the day on November 19 2020

John N had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

278 Excellent

2 Followers

About John N

  • Birthday 04/18/1975

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Manchester UK

Recent Profile Visitors

1,629 profile views
  1. When I last did my forges I bought 1600c rated refractory cement from ebay, and cast the floor, and walls with that. It was 1/2 the price a few years ago though! - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/264332519138?hash=item3d8b7226e2:g:KhkAAOSwqF5bl-Da It mixes up like lumpy concrete, but is bomb proof once you have gone to the effort! edit to add, I use a couple of inches of insulating wool, with the refractory cast inside that. The refractory cement takes much longer to heat up than wool, but holds the heat when you put the workpiece in, and is flux resistant!
  2. This is the newest power hammer in my stable! - had to downsize things a bit since the workshop whoopsie last year Tod is very good at videos, I just stand and grunt on command - hope you enjoy!
  3. @jamiemackie Footnote to this little heat treat oven design, I did suspect the stainless hangers might have a metallurgical effect on the blade steel in contact with it, on discussion with Jamie at the weekend, he also had a suspicion that an area on a 1095 blade, that was heat treated with clay, polished for hamon had lower carbon where it rested on the hanger. (on a larger version of this deign oven he built) I *think* we concluded (but beverage had been consumed!) - that a bit of ceramic tube slid over the hanger would be an easy solution.
  4. No temper colours on the blade, handle not burnt off. I would be surprised if it has exceeded the tempering temps it was made with! what does a sharp file say about the existing heat treat condition?! Dont try and fix if if its not broken!
  5. Just run it until it gets hot Jake! You can get a pretty decent small grinder for less than £50 if it burns out. Wasted time worrying about it exceeds the cost of replacing it!
  6. Not too shabby Mick! hope your keeping well.
  7. Im afraid no tips on it. I have made knives from bearing race, but not enough to have any quantifiable technique. All I know is its hard to work under the hammer (not enjoyable) and fussy. Steel's the cheapest bit of bladesmithing (takes a while to appreciate that) - I need the odd 'easy win' with my hobby so stick to simple steels ive 'learnt' , and I use expensive (but still very cheap in the overall scheme of things) Japanese steel for most of my chefs knives (Aogami Blue paper etc), which Im getting a handle on now. Lots of ways to cock up making a knife, so I try and remove a
  8. harsh. Just a heads up that bearing steel (probably 52100) is a really miserable steel to work with. Horrible under the hammer (hard and short), and fussy heat treat. I avoid it like the plague even with 15 years playing at the game! Bit of known steel like 1070 is really not expensive and removes so many variables from the process! - Enjoy the process even if the outcome is sub optimal, more learnt in the failures than the successes at the start of the journey!
  9. oh, and in my experience, don't buff the blade before etching, it 'smears' the mountain peaks and valleys that the acid bites on. Muddies the whole thing up. I get good etches from 400 grit. I have found if I go to a finer grit the etch is worse. Pondering, on a micro scale, could the 'dark' we see with our eyes be 'in the valleys' of the grit scratch profile?! - discuss.........
  10. Looks nice. A steel with more Mn in it will go darker (try O1, but its not an easy steel for pattern welding) One thing I found to get great contrast is to make your shiny high layers shinier (rather than your dark, darker)! - Try hitting it with some 2000g wet and dry paper, on a hard, flat backing. If you get a smidge of topography from the etch its possible not to 'scuff' the dark layers. It will really pop.
  11. I would vote too cold, not enough soak time at heat, or a combination of the two. (oxidising atmosphere in the forge as a distant 3rd in the why did it not weld conundrum). Forging pressure is a consideration, but Ive dropped billets before on the way out of the forge, when everything else has been good, and they are welded when ive picked them up!
  12. Find your nearest steel stockholder, tell them you want a 'bar end' or offcut with some ballpark dimensions, in an alloy steel. Go and collect it, job jobbed. Reinventing the wheel is a pointless task.
  13. Good work, the future you will thank this you!
  14. not really 'shop', but I got to 2500 followers on instagram today! - Not that I seek positive affirmation (errrrrm) but Ive been on 2495 followers for months Probably should make a bit of time to make some more knives now!
  15. I would just be up for making it, as its different to what I normally make (challenge!) - Its also much harder to make to a specification (challenge again!) - If another couple of people are interested we should do a mini KITH for sure. Sorry for the thread derailment!
×
×
  • Create New...