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John N

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John N last won the day on May 28

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About John N

  • Birthday 04/18/1975

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    Manchester UK

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  1. Looks nice! Hard to critique without giving it a test run - proof of pudding is how well it cuts, everything else is quite subjective. It is really the 'thickness behind the edge' that has the biggest effect on how a chefs knife cuts. I grind & stone the bevels on my chefs knives pretty thin before sharpening (so the edge is say 0.004" - 0.006") - its a funny one, as a 0.012" edge can seem thin before sharpening, but its triple the thickness of a 0.004" edge ! Like you say it does not have much distal taper (thin tip is important on a chefs knife for 'swishing' through onions etc), and to my eye there is quite a lot of handle there for a kitchen knife. Looks great and well sculpted for a 'Stab Grip' , but how does it feel in hand for other grips, like 'pinch gripping' which is used a lot. The other thing that I have found to be very important on kitchen / chefs knives is 'board clearance' for your knuckles when chopping etc. You don't want to be working with your knuckles over the edge of the board all the time, which you do if there is not enough clearance. It might be the angle of the photos, but it looks like your knife would be a bit tight for clearance. If so kicking the angle of the handle up a couple of degrees, relative to the back 2/3rds of the cutting edge would make it much easier to use. My knives tend to be all in a more traditional Japanese style, which is very minimalist. I dont have much experience making 'western' type chefs knives so my ramblings might be off the mark for this knife though!
  2. I really don't like the deflation of going from one step to the next, thinking i've knocked it out of the park, only to realise the step before was not quite as good as i'd hoped Forging 'yeah' neatest forging ever ! - heat treat ......... 'crack' Perfect forging and heat treat ! 'yeah' straight as a die. Rough grind says bananna! Perfect forging, heat treat, rough grind ' yeah!' - delam in steel on finish grind! etc etc. I am getting better at seeing them to the finish post though. Incremental improvements.
  3. Extinguishers by the exit door are a good idea if your brave enough go in to investigate! These are my personal top tips, as a new found expert in the matter (not that any of it would have made any real difference in my shop fire, as there was a very large fire front by the time it hit my buildings) 1 - make sure your insurance coverage is adequate. 2 - make sure your insurance coverage is adequate !!! 3 - Fire breaks. If your shop is separate to your house, don't park a vehicle, or pile a load of crap between them. 4 - Have a good honest look around your shop at all the piles of crap that are in there, that can burn. Stuff you don't really think would burn, burns really well once a fire gets going. Dont give it a chance to! Have a massive clear out, and enjoy the zen of a minimalist tidy workspace. (basically do a fire risk assessment!) 5 - Document what you have done to minimise the fire risk in the shop. Imagine you are having to show it to someone, even if its 'just pretend' conversation. Are you happy? or do you have a cringe at what you meant to get around to doing, but did not have the time ! (I am happy I did what I could on the prevention side, if there was a fire under different circumstances)
  4. The thing with making a forge is, you start out with all the best intentions of making a clean looking, beautifully crafted thing, and after the 20th modification, it works perfectly, but looks like a burnt pile of crap. The sooner you accept this inevitability the happier you will be Eventually you end up with basically a pile of firebricks, with a burner poking into it ! I would strongly recommend a CO alarm in your garage or the building where the forge is sitting outside. Badly tuned forges pump out a massive amount of carbon monoxide. Might be the best $20 you spend! (and CO poisoning is cumulative) edit, there is a good book if you are interested in the workings of burners (sure you can find it cheaper! https://www.amazon.co.uk/Gas-Burners-Forges-Furnaces-Kilns/dp/1879535203 ) I learnt loads about making burners, and make some good ones on the back of the information in the book. If I had 'my time' again, I would have just purchased an 'Amal' burner and concentrated on the forging! (although the 'Amal's' were not really known about for home forges 'in the olden days'
  5. Thanks Guys ! Its still a complete fubar situation, but we are unpicking it a bit. I have not been able to retrieve any of my 'industrial' work in progress, or 'mildly scorched' machines as the building is condemned, and the various insurance companies involved need to collectively agree to tear it down. Hopefully it can be 'made safe' enough for me to get out what I need, before it is fully flattened. Its a bit surreal with the factory gone, covid lockdown etc. Like a big life 'pause'
  6. lol, famous last words from me there. Had a total loss fire 5 weeks ago in the main workshop premises!
  7. Little Sam was so far beyond economic repair its a miracle hes still going ! - I learnt a lot from that re-build, which will hold me in good stead when I start to re-build the poor little Woody!
  8. Sorry your hammers broken. I remember when you got the hammer, and it did not work properly. It was basically a very low cost / low quality lump from the start. Its done well to last as long as it has, I suspect it is a re-badged Rufna hammer. You should contact the person you purchased it from and see if there is a claim on the frame. Negative publicity might force their hand a little. The repair you have done will not last long, as the bending moment on the frame is still concentrated in the area where the frame is obviously weak. You have moved the load points out a couple of inches, but concentrated the load across some bolts. = same result again. Probably the best chance of the hammer lasting long term is to run a couple of tie rods, down from the top cover, to the sow block, so they are in tension. This will minimise the load on the 'hinge' (crack in the frame). It will restrict your access to the dies, but you can probably rotate the dies 45 degrees so you work from the front of the hammer. (if you look at really big flypresses you will see they have, by original design, a tie rod from the top of the frame, to the bed, for this reason) From my experience, any attempts at welding / brazing the crack will be a complete waste of time and money. edit, I now see the crack runs around the back of the hammer, so tie rods wont work - You might be able to buy a new frame for not much money?
  9. Knowing fly presses are not a cheap item in the states (here hauling them costs more than the press!) I would look towards converting a little horizontal log splitter press into a metal squasher as the cheapest way of getting some metal moved on a budget. I have a little 'el cheapo' 3 ton electric / hydraulic thing I use occasionally for its proper application, that I bet would move 1" sq stock with a bit of beefing up on the frame, and 'aggressive dies' (like pieces of 1" round stock)
  10. pretty well nothing left of the material stuff Alan. Got 10 years worth of drawings we have used as PDF's though. I bought an A0 scanner, and our rule has been if you get a drawing from the archives, you scan and label the file, both by drawing number and hammer type / part description. We tried as best we could. The rolling mill might be OK so long as the crane does not land on it from 40' up! Im pretty stubborn, and want it running, so one day, running it will be!
  11. Im gritting my teeth, and sifting the debris in a still smouldering building for tooling etc, got another couple or 3 days before the demo crew hit my bay, as they have started the 'make safe' 4 bays away, ie mine will be the last to be levelled, back end of this week at a guess. Demo lads seem great, are supportive, and have said they will do what they can to save the stuff I care about rather than just 'mashing' through the whole lot.
  12. They are OK! they were in the 'reception' lean to at the front of the building, which you can see standing in the video
  13. At the moment, this is too big to bounce back from. There is a demolition company coming in tomorrow to knock the remains of my factory down. I hope to salvage a couple of my personal power hammers if possible form the rubble.
  14. what fire does not take, water will. This is the best bit of the shop thats left. i could not access the rest as the building as is about to collapse. (all the day light in the back of the pic, used to be the roof of my main factory)
  15. Thanks for the nice words everyone! Looks like its pretty well 100% gone. Demolition crew are starting knocking down the remains of the building in the morning. There is a tiny glimmer of hope that I might be able to salvage a couple of power hammers once the building is down, they look scorched, flooded and sad, but might live again. My little knife finishing shop on the other side of the estate is OK, which gives me a bit of comfort.
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