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John N

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Everything posted by John N

  1. thanks Alan! - if you push hard enough it will start to move eventually!
  2. I'm working on these two machines at the moment! they are just so pretty I thought they should get their own thread! The 2 cwt is my personal hammer, now rebuilt after the fire. The 1 cwt is off to a customer. In the UK both of these machines are regarded as 'Rolls Royce' Not often you see them side by side in nice condition They are both ready for testing next week. Busy busy!
  3. kind of agree (but disagree ) If they are going to be regularly used, use a bit of 'good stuff' for the dies if you can! You will get deformation, and scale is very abrasive. They will end up looking like a dog chewed them, after a while, if they are soft. Beauty of a press is you can get away with sub optimal dies for a lot longer than you will with a power hammer though!
  4. Good honest review, it confirmed a few thoughts I had about the press capacity (I worked it back to 7.75 metric tons from the available data online) It will be worth keeping hold of the small cylinder, as the bigger 8" stroke one has stolen 2" or more of your 'daylight' - which might be a PITA if you want to use the press for punching operations etc! In the UK 'stop blocks' are commonly called 'kiss blocks' - they are usually positioned well off to the side of the die block in use, you really only want to 'kiss it' as it will ramp the press slide over if there is any ex
  5. put some clothes on the blade I posted up last week! Handle is micarta, and Walnut. Im not 100% convinced, but its growing on me a bit.
  6. new machine day is a happy day! Congrats Your cart might need beefing up a bit, the hoses will push and pull a bit when they are loaded up!
  7. I would strongly recommend leaning back and squinting when you load that up! please don't put 20 ton on it, even if you re-weld it. Welding over a bad weld is still, errrm, you know. Not easy to visualise the forces involved, but if a 20 ton anvil block was hanging from a crane, with your press frame as the link, would you stand under it?! - I don't mean to be 'that guy' but better to excercise a bit of caution!
  8. A 'log splitter' press is a very good option, just try and brace the frame, and remove some slop from the moving parts, the frames are really not designed for the 'dead stop' every 1 second you get forging! The power pack on this press is basically 'log splitter' with non standard pump / motor configuration!
  9. A lad I have got to know quite well, Josh, is making some very nice grinders, and accessories. Small outfit, but Josh really cares about making stuff 'right' at a good price point! https://manchestergrinders.co.uk/
  10. not quite yet. there is some heavy spread sheet action going on at work! I have substantially improved and simplified the design, and need to finalise that, and grow a bit of confidence to 'pull the trigger' to make them in batches. Its a bit outside my current comfort zone, as we generally work on 'one off' very big forging machines
  11. Its all quite interesting when you get into it a bit! I am quite liking the simplicity of hydraulic formula! This press is 90mm bore cylinder, which from memory gives 12.3 metric tons (not american short tons!) @ 2500psi. (thats about 8.5 amps, on a 240 volt single phase supply) 1.5 kw motor. Cant remember the ram speed, but that 'is what it is' - the press was designed with power & tonnage in mind, the speed is the 3rd part of the formula, so is what it is! The frame is grossly over engineered, but its functions are more than 'stretch resistance' - We modelled the
  12. gave her a lick of paint to smarten things up a bit. Im not 100% convinced with the colour , but it will look very different when the front and back plates are fitted to cover all the working bits!
  13. Got the knifemaking wind in my sails for the first time in about a year! ground this 240 gyuto I had previously forged, and did a surprisingly neat job! It will probably all be down hill from here, but nice to be making again!
  14. The maximum (whilst fully supported by the frame and ram) is 2" x 6". I codged the dies together from scrap for the prototype to test it, so they are 'sub optimal in many ways'! They are 45 x 140 mm You can have a much wider die on this press than some other designs, as they are held by the front and back clamps (rather than screws going up into the ram, and down into the bed). Ive designed it so you can make dies easily by welding bits onto a plain flat plate, and the clamps locate onto that. The wider dies area should be useful, as you can work off centre as its very
  15. Link will take you to the video! - cant embed thumbnail. I really don't like technology sometimes!
  16. Started this project 6 months ago, its been very stop start due to other commitments, but finally got her under power! A full 12 metric tons, placed inside a 'ring frame' - this is the simplest and strongest design I could think of. I wince when I see presses flexing and ramping under load, so wanted my design to be tight and right! We ran a FEA analysis on the frame, and it does not flex at all until its got over 100 ton loading Press has a 2 horse motor, running at 8.5 amps from a single phase 240v supply (which is the max FLC of the motor) - seems to work nicely.
  17. When I last did my forges I bought 1600c rated refractory cement from ebay, and cast the floor, and walls with that. It was 1/2 the price a few years ago though! - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/264332519138?hash=item3d8b7226e2:g:KhkAAOSwqF5bl-Da It mixes up like lumpy concrete, but is bomb proof once you have gone to the effort! edit to add, I use a couple of inches of insulating wool, with the refractory cast inside that. The refractory cement takes much longer to heat up than wool, but holds the heat when you put the workpiece in, and is flux resistant!
  18. This is the newest power hammer in my stable! - had to downsize things a bit since the workshop whoopsie last year Tod is very good at videos, I just stand and grunt on command - hope you enjoy!
  19. @jamiemackie Footnote to this little heat treat oven design, I did suspect the stainless hangers might have a metallurgical effect on the blade steel in contact with it, on discussion with Jamie at the weekend, he also had a suspicion that an area on a 1095 blade, that was heat treated with clay, polished for hamon had lower carbon where it rested on the hanger. (on a larger version of this deign oven he built) I *think* we concluded (but beverage had been consumed!) - that a bit of ceramic tube slid over the hanger would be an easy solution.
  20. No temper colours on the blade, handle not burnt off. I would be surprised if it has exceeded the tempering temps it was made with! what does a sharp file say about the existing heat treat condition?! Dont try and fix if if its not broken!
  21. Just run it until it gets hot Jake! You can get a pretty decent small grinder for less than £50 if it burns out. Wasted time worrying about it exceeds the cost of replacing it!
  22. Not too shabby Mick! hope your keeping well.
  23. Im afraid no tips on it. I have made knives from bearing race, but not enough to have any quantifiable technique. All I know is its hard to work under the hammer (not enjoyable) and fussy. Steel's the cheapest bit of bladesmithing (takes a while to appreciate that) - I need the odd 'easy win' with my hobby so stick to simple steels ive 'learnt' , and I use expensive (but still very cheap in the overall scheme of things) Japanese steel for most of my chefs knives (Aogami Blue paper etc), which Im getting a handle on now. Lots of ways to cock up making a knife, so I try and remove a
  24. harsh. Just a heads up that bearing steel (probably 52100) is a really miserable steel to work with. Horrible under the hammer (hard and short), and fussy heat treat. I avoid it like the plague even with 15 years playing at the game! Bit of known steel like 1070 is really not expensive and removes so many variables from the process! - Enjoy the process even if the outcome is sub optimal, more learnt in the failures than the successes at the start of the journey!
  25. oh, and in my experience, don't buff the blade before etching, it 'smears' the mountain peaks and valleys that the acid bites on. Muddies the whole thing up. I get good etches from 400 grit. I have found if I go to a finer grit the etch is worse. Pondering, on a micro scale, could the 'dark' we see with our eyes be 'in the valleys' of the grit scratch profile?! - discuss.........
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