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John N

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Everything posted by John N

  1. The forging being done in the opening sequence of the film is a massive pipe clamp (all these went to the states), the set of gears in the second shot is the back of a 1000 ton+ 'Toledo' trimming press. (might be a 1500 ton?) On that site there is very strict h&s policies, that many people (myself included) pulled a face at. The combined 'clutch / brake' unit that you can see on the Toledo at the start of the video jammed and exploded a couple of years ago. A large chunk of the housing flew 100' down the bay, and smacked a guy on the hard hat, hospitalising him. Good job he had the hard hat on, 100' away from a running machine! Quite a dangerous game big industrial forging, even when all precautions are taken!
  2. The Dg40 in there is an interesting one. Its was made by English steel company just before ww2. There was a smaller Beche that they copied. It was the only hammer in the UK that was big enough to forge the crank for the Rolls Royce 'Merlin' engine, which was a major contributory factor to success in the 'battle of Britain' which swung the war. (knock off hammer ) The bottom 'tup' on the '40' is about 60 ton, the top about 45. The 2 tups are connected by steel bands over rollers. The top tup is pushed down by compressed air, pulling the bottom tup up via the bands. The top moves further distance (hence more speed) than the bottom, but the bottom is heavier so the 'energy' in each piece is the same - thus = harmony on the work piece. On the later 'DGH' hammers the top and bottom tups are hydraulically coupled (hence the 'H') - the motive force is still squashed air. The '40' refers to 40,000 kilogram meters of energy. One of my customers in the UK is putting in a Beche 65 - Im looking forward to seeing that, it will be a beast. The 40 is pretty humbling. I love it.
  3. I was in there on Friday! - I found the floor plate with ''barry can't arf weld' on it! The big drop stamps are Massey 8 - 10 - 12 ton, the counterblow is a biggie, a Beche DG40. One of my best customers, I do a heck of a lot of work on the stamps.
  4. It does have a fat ass, but it looks good Jake! - Since no handles really seem to have survived from the originals, they might all have been 'fuller figured'
  5. Not easy to stop smoking. I smoked heavily for 20+ years. Tomorrow always seemed a much better day to stop. I had my hand forced on stopping when we started trying for a family, which was not a smooth journey. Our daughter is 4 now, and Ive not smoked for 5 years. Dont feel any urge to nowdays, even around smoking and drinking bladesmiths! I am quite reliant on my vape, but I suspect it is habit rather than nicotine addiction. I might pack that in this year. A year or so after I stopped smoking, I collapsed and cracked my head on the back of the loo. (it transpired I fainted, I fell asleep on the sofa with my legs up, then went to the loo half asleep ) I got blue light ambulanced into 'ER' full ECG, bloods done etc etc. It was very frightening at the time. The doc asked me if I smoked, and right at that second I was very glad to be able to say I did not. I looked at all the other people in there with suspected heart attacks, mostly guys in their 50's, partners nipping out for a cig every 20 mins. Knew I had made a good decision to stop, it bought the reality of the warnings printed on every pack home.
  6. Im happy with the shape, but following a bit more research the construction of the patternweld is a bit off! Yeah, will be at owens
  7. hey big sam ! hope your well ! - still down under ? The cows in the UK have felt a lot safer recently Thanks! - this will be historically inaccurate, but I will have fun finishing it !
  8. bummer........ Ive welded up lots of saw blades, of all different flavours, and never had a big problem with them. The HSS is usually only the teeth. I have found the backing material can be a bit 'Chromy' which makes it slippery to weld though. (Weld looks stuck, but then slips forged on edge) - The M42 bandsaw blades I use can be up to 3% chrome, away from the teeth. Nice and bright in etch. I still use M42 backing in my wrought iron 'damascus' all the time. Crumbly is usually over heating. Ive had O1 'cottage cheese' before now. No going back once its gone!
  9. thanks @Alan ! I managed to get a few historically accurate weld defects in there for you
  10. Had a nice chilled last day of the holidays before back to work 'proper' tomorrow. I just went with the flow on the forging, and it came out not too bad. Few weld defects here and there, but nothing I was not expecting. Using old material of variable consistency, and bloom steel does not help! Blade has come out 19" long, plus the handle. Its 7 mm at the beak, with a little bit of 'reverse' distal taper to the tang. The first two photos are 100% as forged, no grinding at all. The second 'in the vice' photo is after I knocked some weight off it on the grinder, touched the profile a touch, then gave it a gentle reforge to set the tang better, and true everything up. Its had a couple of normalisations, and has lost nearly enough weight for heat treating, its about 1/8" at the edge. Gave it a quick vanity etch to see where im up to
  11. Forging day on this lump tomorrow, after a forced week off, drinking and fishing, and thinking about forging ! There is no way the smiths of old would have sacrificed as much material to the grinder as I was intending to on this, for the weight of the preform (aka, the blade as it is now), it should be 50% longer, and I hope to make it so - will try and get some pictures of 'glory, or scrap pile' in progress!
  12. Will do if I remember ! can get drunk and start the regrind on it
  13. Thanks for the encouragement! Im away from the forge for a few days, so have had a good bit of time to look at where I am at with this, and I think I can see where I am going with it now. Might be as well I stopped with it where I did on the first forging. Been looking at seax profiles for rather longer than is healthy, and remembered I joined a seax group on F-B, where I see a few familiar names, and lots of very solid information. I think another decent forging session can make it longer, thicker at the spine, and a nice profile. Hopefully if it goes as I envisage it will be sort of 'Seax of Beagnoth' in profile, but with a tiny hint more of a 'clip' and a smidge more belly to the blade. Wish me luck!
  14. Thanks guys ! - Finishing this one can wait for a while, I got my forging groove on yesterday and am seaxing now ! - I put a thread in show and tell.
  15. Got my annual post Christmas forge day today, went in with no plan, other than to patternweld something! I had a variety of bits and bobs of interesting material knocking about, so just went at it, with no real plan. ( well, actually the plan was for something a bit longer than this, but the wrought iron laminate really did not like being twisted!) I had a lump of wrought iron 'damascus' left over from cladding material for the chefs knifes, I think its wrought / mild / possibly a hint of shiny metal in there. It had 90 layers chalked on it, it looks low layer in the twists though. I managed to pull this material out into a long bar, and did a bit of twisting, and left a bit as straight laminate. could not twist any tighter than I did, as it snapped if I tried. The edge steel is bloom that I got from Owen when he did a demo smelt at a blacksmiths event 5 years ago. It sparked up high carbon. I tried to work the bloom steel into a bar, but lack of experience showed, and it was not looking great, so I cheated, and welded the bloom steel either side of a piece of W2 'san mai' style. The held it all together enough to get a solid (ish) piece of material. I will be amazed if the edge on the finished blade is without problems though! Welded the 4 bars together, and have forged them into a rough seax shape. I could feel my forging getting scrappy, so stopped at this point. The whole piece is around 6mm thick still, so I have got a good bit of scope to stretch it on the final forge, when I put the tang in. The finished pattern will be pretty subtle. Felt good to just be doing some 'go with the flow' forging again!
  16. It was that time Alan! there was certainly smoke and fire in the air. Great Days. I will finish this one, one day, but the day is not now. It needs to loose half a pound, knowing what I know now, and grinding is not much fun. I need to weld again. Its feeling close. @Zeb Camper Ill have a look at the book tomorrow to see the blade, I don't want to copy old exactly, but if I can catch a spark from it ill go from there. Ive got some medieval horseshoe remains and some wrought iron, but too many real life commitments to make steel - though I do have half a bloom from a smelt with Owen from a few years ago waiting.... maybe a langseax..
  17. On top of a bookshelf, in the lounge, I found a blade. I made this 10 years ago, the muse sat on my shoulder, and it just happened. My one and only sword! At the time it was intended as a dig at the 'your a newby, you must make coat hooks crowd' but I fell down the rabbit hole. Its 10 bars, with the edges a serpent. I was pretty washed out when I finished it, and did not try again. Im now feeling a little itch, starting to get more irritating. I think the next one will be darker ! what do I make ? I will dig out 'swords of the viking age' tomorrow for inspiration, or might just go with the flow as I have a forging day........ where should this head ? sword two. Im excited, and scared at the same time. this is effort one. ( click image for video of blade!)
  18. should be fine! If I run a motor very very slowly through a vfd for any length of time for some reason my gut feeling is its not doing it any good. This is not based on any facts though ! Motors are plenty cheap nowadays, so I would not sweat it too much whatever I do. Sell a knife, pay for new motor.
  19. Gifting round the tree this Yuletide, the socks are changing hands, brightly wrapped. My face set to 'polite' when passed my gift from the inlaws but...... wait a min! Antique 16" slashing billhook ! " we don't think you have one of those ?! " Hope you all got something that made you smile - Seasons Greatings to you all
  20. Made a pair from scratch for myself, then my UK customers who saw them wanted them, so now I get Anyang to make them, and I supply them with the hammers. If you hit up James Johnson, and tell him you want a pair of john @ masseys UK Bladesmith dies he will get you a price. They are H13 as they take a lot of clatter due to the small contact area. Send me an email to john at masseyforging dot com and I can send you some pics in the new year.
  21. Profile looks nice to my eye. If I was making it......... blade shape perfect, angle of the tang needs to be kicked up a couple of degrees so the 'butt' of the handle is higher. This will give an easy 'flat' line along the whole top of the knife, and keep the tang in the middle of the handle, which minimises the chances of 'grind through' (assuming you want the aesthetic of a straight line along the top of the blade and handle!!)
  22. your forgings look super clean! - I also do 95% of my blade work on an Anyang 33lb hammer. I made a set of dies that are similar to the Japanese classic bladesmithing dies. (round top die with crown, flat 'anvil' bottom die)
  23. Found a couple of pics on my phone! The ducting is 4" dia to the back , and to the hood under the front of the grinder (switchable by fully sealed dampers in the all metal ducting). The block of wood I mentioned above fits in the big gap between the top and bottom of the belt, leaving a small aperture which increases air velocity where it matters. not pictured. I still have some tweaking to do on the system. At the moment its a 1/2 hp metal dust extractor unit from a jones and shipman surface grinder, pulling through a cyclone. I will upgrade to 2hp when I find the right blower for cheap. I also need to 'funnel' the airflow forwards a bit with some tin metal extensions to the grinder body. It is adequate 'as is' but I know it will supercharge easily enough. If you look under the top of the belt you can see the radius platen I use (a piece from a 500 mm bearing race) - the belt is running away from me when I use this configuration. It makes grinding so much easier than the standard configuration used by a lot of bladesmiths. The hologram of the puppies helps with grinding zen. Very important There is also a radius master clone on the same extractor, again it has its own blast gate isolator. The catcher needs a bit of work to this one still, but I only use it sporadically, so not a priority!
  24. I have a Wilton Sq wheel that I have modded the chassis length on to run 2 mtr belts. I kept the side door on mine, and am now glad I did! I run it in reverse, and have cut the back off the grinder, and mounted it to dust collector! - It is really very effective. I have a piece of wood that fills the gap between the top and bottom on the belt that increases air velocity for the extraction. I also have a catcher hood under the front for when I run it 'forwards' - have a couple of blast gates to select which way it sucks!
  25. I had to google 'go mai' ! - yes it is The handle is bog oak, and Zebrano. Ill make sure I leave them something. Just wish they would stop hiding all my tools when I need them
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