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John N

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Everything posted by John N

  1. Ran woody again tonight, he seems better than before! I really need to find my 'Bush' hand hammer and some tongs, and get an anvil set up and im good to forge this weekend! Got a few commissions I need to make, and want to get a few made 'on spec' for sale in December. Busy Busy
  2. Found a pic of Woody after the fire! - just posting this so you can see how different he looks in the next (happy) post I put up of him running again. When the factory was burning we had the foresight to get the fire service to flood my forge area (hence its partial survival!) The forge area was on a fire break to another unit, so they really flooded it! - if you are eagle eyed in this pic you will see a crazy number of anvils in the background. They all 'ring' to a hammer still, so I have hope for them. I have bought a hardness tester to properly check they are OK when I get a ch
  3. @Brian Dougherty- Thanks! nice to have a working hammer, even if no time to use it ! The recovery has been horrible, relentless hard work so far (a real slog) - just kinda having to keep pushing and pushing even though 1/2 of me does not want to (the other half seems to be winning though). Getting some small wins, that are becoming more frequent. Im now a bit more accepting that I cant keep everyone happy and just getting on with doing my best (I might have nearly run out of F's to give ) I just had a look on my phone for a pic of woody buried under the pile of bricks,
  4. No pics or vids yet, but as of yesterday I am now the proud owner of a working power hammer! Little 'woody' the 15kg anyang I have owned for about 15 years got well and truly BBQ'd when the factory burnt down (and a wall fell on him). I have picked away, couple of hours here, couple there, and hes back running Quite symbolic he's working again. Stubbon little fella actually seems to be hitting harder and more controlled than before his 'stress relieving' ! - New motor & belts, new lube system I frigged together from found bits, and ready for a bit of hot metal!
  5. probably just too much air blast in the solid fuel forge, and you de-carbed the outer layers of the san-mai.
  6. I spent far too long without a blade stamp, and the potato print stamp. It was such a buzz to get them and have *my* makers mark I should have done it much sooner than I did. I have always taken satisfaction from my work, but to give my making, effectively a brand, has been rewarding in its own right. It was awesome the first time I saw a thread on a chef knife, or some such forum, with one of the replies being 'have you considered a Did**** forge knife they look great?' (** I don't really mention my forge name on here, as it will top page on google and potential custo
  7. @Josh BurrellIt looks like the mill pond that is still there on Rivlin Valley (by the kids park). Well worth a walk down there, Mousehole forge at the top (Hillsborough end). Loads of old forge shadows as you walk down there (wheel pits etc). I had a good mooch earlier this year.
  8. Oh, and welcome to the forum ! it is one of few quiet sanctuaries left on the internet in my honest opinion Please share some pics of your work!
  9. I found some boxes online that are suitable for my smaller knives, cost is fairly minimal (perhaps a couple of $ each, when 25 were bought at once) - I then had a rubber stamp made which was very inexpensive online (might have been $30 delivered next day from order, with a couple of ink pads!!) - I use the stamp for 'certificate / letterhead / label's etc. Very satisfying to use, think it stems back to potato prints as a kid! I use a bit of hessian to line the box. Fits OK with my rustic looking knives. Customers love the boxes, it adds an extra level of value to the knife for basi
  10. @Paul Carterglad to have helped a little. One other thing that spring to mind, having re-read your post is the 65Rc hardness. I don't have any direct experience with AEBL, so I might be off the mark for this steel, but on a carbon steel knife I would consider 65Rc 'pot hard' - Might be OK for a pro chef knife nerd, but will probably just chip out on the edge with a minor bit of misuse for a 'normal' kitchen knife user. I would pull the temper back to 60 ish. A non knife nerd will never notice the difference in ultimate sharpness and edge retention, but they will certain
  11. Don't try and make a forging forge a heat treatment forge. They are different animals. You will end up with the worst of both worlds. I posted a thread on here about my little heat treat for the 'the jizer' which shows how little you need for a super accurate heat treatment forge. I can hold a couple of degrees with it. I recall the post I made about the forge was made a 'sticky' in one of the forums on here. Not got time to locate the post now, but will dig it out tomorrow for you.
  12. a thin steel plate with an air gap behind it, not coupled to your wall should be an effective heat isolator. Your fire extinguisher is for the stuff in your workshop that will catch fire, your forge is not flammable, its just a case of shutting the gas off and its safe. CO2 are very effective and low mess. If you put the flame out in your forge without shutting the gas off you only get a massive explosion shortly after! If you are in a small workspace with a gas forge a CO monitor will be the best £15 you ever spend, available from all good supermarkets in the UK! - C
  13. Just one other thing to keep an eye on with kitchen knife blade shape and geometry, is the height of the tip relative to the centre line of the handle. On the son in laws knife the tip is very high. If you imagine trimming a bit of skin of a chicken breast with the tip, your elbow will be pointing at the ceiling with your wrist bent down 90 degrees to do it. Other knife looks loads better in this regard!
  14. I would avoid the plunge line being anywhere near to the cutting edge of the blade. You need to be able to sharpen the full edge in one swoop. The plunge line will end up in front of the handle as posted by Garry above! your edge geometry will dictate where the plunge lands! I forge the geometry in all my chefs knives, which nicely avoids me ever having to do even plunge lines again in fact, probably the main reason I like making chefs knives is I dont have to worry about this aspect of making! Profile on son in laws blade does look a bit flat to my eye. On chefs knive
  15. Price is relative to how much money you have! - ie, you need to sell to people who can afford it without thinking about it. If you find the right customer base the difference between 125 and 200 is not relevant. I saw a small gate being made in a workshop once many years ago, and asked how much it sold for ($30k usd) - I said 'thats expensive' - and I was very publicly cut a new hole by the boss, who very correctly pointed out is was not expensive, it was just a lot of money, to me, in my current financial situation. He went on to point out that is was going in front of a £3m house
  16. They are both made of carbon, which is really really old, probably made in the same big bang
  17. I would do it on the grinder, get it perfect, then give it one last tiny tickle, somehow let go of it, and get it stuck between the belt and platen at 6000 sfpm
  18. I remember lots of those sites on internet version one! - I think keenjunk became 'farwestforge' or similar, im sure there was some drama at the time! - Jock is still stubbornly going on Anvilfire, I had a look a few weeks ago. edit!!!! and Iforgeiron, back in the day when experienced and skilled smiths shared knowledge freely, before a few self appointed forge gods developed a superiority complex belittling new members who had the audacity to ask questions!
  19. Ive been a member since 2009 - think I was a lurker long before that. I drift in and out of the forum as life allows. This forum has led to me meeting some awesome people in real life that would not have happened otherwise, and for that, I thank you. Social media has its place, and I like instagram for my blade work, and snapshots of my forging industry work, but it is really transient, instant hit and gone. Not even tomorrows chip papers.
  20. And this is the 'hipster special' I could not get pics to post properly a couple of weeks ago! Stabalised OSB and 4000 year old bog oak handle
  21. [img]https://i.imgur.com/j3dZJtQ.jpg[/img] couple finished recently!
  22. getting a few knives finished up, including this 'hipster' special with stabalised OSB handle! - will get some decent pics of what Im working on when there is some decent light! blade is stainless clad Aogami super blue steel. https://imgur.com/8qDGAC9 [img]https://i.imgur.com/8qDGAC9.jpg[/img]
  23. nice work, My take on the profiles (for what its worth!) is in line with the other comments. The big one probably has a bit much 'pot belly' in the middle 1/3rd of the edge. (it will concertina cut against a board unless you use a 'sweeping' pull cut.) The petties could use a tiny bit more up-sweep towards the tip (ie, they are a bit flat in profile, and the tip is a bit low relative to the centre line of the handle) Funny thing with kitchen knives, from my own messing with them, is that a 1/16" change in profile can make a massive difference to the knife feeling and l
  24. Not done any making for 5 months since the main factory fire, just started to get a bit of hunger back for making today though! Spent 3 hours tidying and arranging my 'knife shop' (which was being used as a temporary HQ for Massey) - so it looks like my workshop again now Easing myself back into making, spent more time looking for stuff than actual doing! This seemed like a nice easy project (not over faced by it) - Its a re-handle on a 240mm Gyuto a chef commissioned just before the fire. The blade is very lucky as it was on my desk in the unit that went up and I man
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