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John N

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Everything posted by John N

  1. I remember lots of those sites on internet version one! - I think keenjunk became 'farwestforge' or similar, im sure there was some drama at the time! - Jock is still stubbornly going on Anvilfire, I had a look a few weeks ago. edit!!!! and Iforgeiron, back in the day when experienced and skilled smiths shared knowledge freely, before a few self appointed forge gods developed a superiority complex belittling new members who had the audacity to ask questions!
  2. Ive been a member since 2009 - think I was a lurker long before that. I drift in and out of the forum as life allows. This forum has led to me meeting some awesome people in real life that would not have happened otherwise, and for that, I thank you. Social media has its place, and I like instagram for my blade work, and snapshots of my forging industry work, but it is really transient, instant hit and gone. Not even tomorrows chip papers.
  3. And this is the 'hipster special' I could not get pics to post properly a couple of weeks ago! Stabalised OSB and 4000 year old bog oak handle
  4. [img]https://i.imgur.com/j3dZJtQ.jpg[/img] couple finished recently!
  5. getting a few knives finished up, including this 'hipster' special with stabalised OSB handle! - will get some decent pics of what Im working on when there is some decent light! blade is stainless clad Aogami super blue steel. https://imgur.com/8qDGAC9 [img]https://i.imgur.com/8qDGAC9.jpg[/img]
  6. nice work, My take on the profiles (for what its worth!) is in line with the other comments. The big one probably has a bit much 'pot belly' in the middle 1/3rd of the edge. (it will concertina cut against a board unless you use a 'sweeping' pull cut.) The petties could use a tiny bit more up-sweep towards the tip (ie, they are a bit flat in profile, and the tip is a bit low relative to the centre line of the handle) Funny thing with kitchen knives, from my own messing with them, is that a 1/16" change in profile can make a massive difference to the knife feeling and l
  7. Not done any making for 5 months since the main factory fire, just started to get a bit of hunger back for making today though! Spent 3 hours tidying and arranging my 'knife shop' (which was being used as a temporary HQ for Massey) - so it looks like my workshop again now Easing myself back into making, spent more time looking for stuff than actual doing! This seemed like a nice easy project (not over faced by it) - Its a re-handle on a 240mm Gyuto a chef commissioned just before the fire. The blade is very lucky as it was on my desk in the unit that went up and I man
  8. I have bought a few VFD's from this company in the UK - they have actual people that answer the phone and sort any technical issues you have, without going all tech on you! I think these are the same drives the esteemed Mr Gunn is speaking of! https://inverterdrive.com/group/AC-Inverter-Drives-230V/?filter=Protection|IP54+to+IP66 I have done the 'cheap' VFD route a couple of times, and it has resulted in blue sparks and smoke after a few months.
  9. the outside of the billet will cool faster before hammering, it could be as simple as that, ie on such a tiny billet with no thermal mass its just not hot enough when you hit it! Forge welding is much easier when you have a decent amount of material to weld, and then draw to thickness. For example if I want 5 mm san mai material, I would start with 3 layers of 6mm. Welding thin stock is not easy at all!
  10. Good looking build, but I cant see how the burners can cleanly draw air with the threaded 'T's looks a terrible burner deisgn imho - Once you have used a proper hot gas forge you will realise what you should be looking for, after 1/2 hour burn a well balanced hot, forge should just be a wall of white at the door you cant look at, no analysing dragons breath! Hopefully you don't take this as overly critical of what you have achieved so far, but when you nail it with balanced burner and chamber design, and it hits the 'white wall' at about 1300c you will understand!
  11. To my eye, and its subjective, and hard to explain............. you blade profile is perfect, handle profile......... perfect. (but does not need to go 'parallel' for the bolster section) Handle should be 'up' a couple of degrees to how its sitting now (using the bolster as the 'hinge' point for the couple of degrees) - This would move the 'beak' at the tip of the handle up by 1/8" or 3/16" , improving knuckle clearance on the chopping board. Its a funny thing when you are grinding knives. Ive hated stuff Ive made (I just lay into the steel, never draw before hand) - c
  12. My grinds (at the moment, its an evolving thing) are nearly flat, but with a hint of convex. but... I forge pretty close, so only the bottom half of the blade is ground, which makes a difference to how it cuts. As the top half of my blades are 'as forged' and at a shallower angle than the primary grind the food never touches it, which makes food release much better ( verses a full flat grind up to the spine of the blade)
  13. Great start, but I think your blade profiles , and handle to blade angles are pretty off on most of them (the last 2 look a bit better though). The cutting edge of your knives roll up towards the handle, which is where you generally want the 'flat spot' for contact with the chopping board, with adequate 'knuckle clearance' to the chopping board (edge to handle 'angle') - as you have profiled a few of the pictured ones, the 'heel' end of the edge could not be used against a chopping board without 'concertina cutting' The blade profile of kitchen / chefs knives has evol
  14. Looks nice! Hard to critique without giving it a test run - proof of pudding is how well it cuts, everything else is quite subjective. It is really the 'thickness behind the edge' that has the biggest effect on how a chefs knife cuts. I grind & stone the bevels on my chefs knives pretty thin before sharpening (so the edge is say 0.004" - 0.006") - its a funny one, as a 0.012" edge can seem thin before sharpening, but its triple the thickness of a 0.004" edge ! Like you say it does not have much distal taper (thin tip is important on a chefs knife for 'sw
  15. I really don't like the deflation of going from one step to the next, thinking i've knocked it out of the park, only to realise the step before was not quite as good as i'd hoped Forging 'yeah' neatest forging ever ! - heat treat ......... 'crack' Perfect forging and heat treat ! 'yeah' straight as a die. Rough grind says bananna! Perfect forging, heat treat, rough grind ' yeah!' - delam in steel on finish grind! etc etc. I am getting better at seeing them to the finish post though. Incremental improvements.
  16. Extinguishers by the exit door are a good idea if your brave enough go in to investigate! These are my personal top tips, as a new found expert in the matter (not that any of it would have made any real difference in my shop fire, as there was a very large fire front by the time it hit my buildings) 1 - make sure your insurance coverage is adequate. 2 - make sure your insurance coverage is adequate !!! 3 - Fire breaks. If your shop is separate to your house, don't park a vehicle, or pile a load of crap between them. 4 - Have a good
  17. The thing with making a forge is, you start out with all the best intentions of making a clean looking, beautifully crafted thing, and after the 20th modification, it works perfectly, but looks like a burnt pile of crap. The sooner you accept this inevitability the happier you will be Eventually you end up with basically a pile of firebricks, with a burner poking into it ! I would strongly recommend a CO alarm in your garage or the building where the forge is sitting outside. Badly tuned forges pump out a massive amount of carbon monoxide. Might be the b
  18. Thanks Guys ! Its still a complete fubar situation, but we are unpicking it a bit. I have not been able to retrieve any of my 'industrial' work in progress, or 'mildly scorched' machines as the building is condemned, and the various insurance companies involved need to collectively agree to tear it down. Hopefully it can be 'made safe' enough for me to get out what I need, before it is fully flattened. Its a bit surreal with the factory gone, covid lockdown etc. Like a big life 'pause'
  19. lol, famous last words from me there. Had a total loss fire 5 weeks ago in the main workshop premises!
  20. Little Sam was so far beyond economic repair its a miracle hes still going ! - I learnt a lot from that re-build, which will hold me in good stead when I start to re-build the poor little Woody!
  21. Sorry your hammers broken. I remember when you got the hammer, and it did not work properly. It was basically a very low cost / low quality lump from the start. Its done well to last as long as it has, I suspect it is a re-badged Rufna hammer. You should contact the person you purchased it from and see if there is a claim on the frame. Negative publicity might force their hand a little. The repair you have done will not last long, as the bending moment on the frame is still concentrated in the area where the frame is obviously weak. You have moved the load points out a
  22. Knowing fly presses are not a cheap item in the states (here hauling them costs more than the press!) I would look towards converting a little horizontal log splitter press into a metal squasher as the cheapest way of getting some metal moved on a budget. I have a little 'el cheapo' 3 ton electric / hydraulic thing I use occasionally for its proper application, that I bet would move 1" sq stock with a bit of beefing up on the frame, and 'aggressive dies' (like pieces of 1" round stock)
  23. pretty well nothing left of the material stuff Alan. Got 10 years worth of drawings we have used as PDF's though. I bought an A0 scanner, and our rule has been if you get a drawing from the archives, you scan and label the file, both by drawing number and hammer type / part description. We tried as best we could. The rolling mill might be OK so long as the crane does not land on it from 40' up! Im pretty stubborn, and want it running, so one day, running it will be!
  24. Im gritting my teeth, and sifting the debris in a still smouldering building for tooling etc, got another couple or 3 days before the demo crew hit my bay, as they have started the 'make safe' 4 bays away, ie mine will be the last to be levelled, back end of this week at a guess. Demo lads seem great, are supportive, and have said they will do what they can to save the stuff I care about rather than just 'mashing' through the whole lot.
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