Jump to content

John N

Supporting Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by John N

  1. you can use them from the minute you switch it on. Some hammers dont make full power untill they get hot. If it does start to get sluggish when its just switched on, and cold, use thinner oil.
  2. Glad your getting on well with it Marius!! Keep enough oil going through that the ram has a nice film on and it will treat you well! If you feel the hammer is not making enough power, or seems to be taking longer to 'warm up' when you start using it, use a lighter oil, they 'snot' up if the oil is to heavy. Of course you will put a guard on the pully at the back , if you have a blade that flicks from the tongs sods law it will find the unguarded moving bit!!
  3. we need pics! might take about 2 weeks to get up to a decent temperature, but on the bright side you might not need to light it the next day to use it, itll be that hot still
  4. It was originally going to be a 'chopper' when I started out, but was working without a plan and diddnt really thing about the shape of the end of the handle. To give it some grip though I used vulcanised rubber sheet for the liners, hopefully it will hold up ok ! I was planning on it being quite a bit chunkier than it is, but some mispaced hammer blows took a bit of grinding out so it ended up 4mm not 6 thick!, all good learning though!
  5. I posted this on B.B and it got a pretty positive response so I thought I would show it over here! Its a section of wonkey mosaic damascus (maxen 'firewithin') forged down onto itself. Amazed that all the welds held! from this.... to this!
  6. Its taken a while but ive actually managed to finish my 3rd knife! Forged from a slice of the end of a 3" bar of EN24 (817m40), tough stuff to work, but im confident its a decent blade steel! Its about 11 1/2" o/a length, all comments welcome
  7. Looks like a farriers shoeing anvil to me, but should work great. Depends how you are budget wise, you will get as much, if not more work out of a chunk of steel set vertically in a bucket, (search for bladesmiths post anvil) for a lot less $, and you could spend the rest on tongs, hammers, materials, fuel etc. course if moneys not an issue its up to you! once youve got an anvil other ones seem to find you!
  8. John N

    old files

    Last weekend I had a go at making my first knife from a file, 8 hours later it looked like this, 12" long, full distal tapers on blade & handle, Thought for a second I might be on my way to finishing my 3rd ever knife! daubed some clay on the spine, figured what the heck, its likely to be a water hardening steel.... 3 seconds later it looked like this it did pull about 1/8" sori during its somwhat spectacular exploison so, the moral is its probably best to err on the side of caution and quench in oil !!
  9. On the hammers I sell all the electrical components are 'CE' (conformance europe) marked. This is a legal requirements over here to sell them. I supply the first line warantee to the customer, I give 12 months parts & Labour, and like mentioned theres a life time warantee on the frame (to the first purchaser of the hammer). To be honest there has not really been many issues, as there isnt much to go wrong. On some of the early hammers I sold the oilers were 'erratic', but a design modification sorted this issue, and I sorted it for my customers. Ive not had issue with quality pro
  10. Hi Guys, Its not easy for me to be unbiased in this as I am the UK distributor of Anyang hammers, but heres my thoughts on the points raised so far in this thread,. The Anyang and Striker (Shanxi No. 2 Forging Press & Machine Tool Co) hammer are both manufactured to the same basic design, The ‘C-41’ series. My educated guess is that the Chinese Ministry for machinery set up several factories in China to manufacture hammers to one basic design. The design looks to me to be very similar to the Beche Hammer from Germany. There are other factories than the 2 mentioned above making
  11. Hi Marius, Ive bought ITC100 from these folks before http://www.scarvapottery.com/opencontent/default.asp There in Northern Ireland. Do not look how much the americans pay for this stuff, it will make you sad when you get the price from Scarva! It might be worth seeing if Jock from www.anvilfire.com will ship it to you, could still work out cheaper. All the Best - John
  12. Love it! the composition of the blade does look like a slice through the bacon
  13. This is my latest attempt at the pattern and Im pretty pleased with it (defect free for a change !) All the forging went a bit random and had to be trued up every other heat which has given a nice wiggle to the pattern, I think its still to 'tight' but im giving this pattern a rest for a bit now, to much other stuff to try and not enough forge time!
  14. May as well show this one again as another variation on the theme, It was just very rough ground in this photo. I threw another type of steel in the mix. The blade looked fantastic but I wasnt convinced it had hardened as much as it could have so tried it in water! you can guess the rest (and the moral is dont use scrap steel for tricky patterns! )
  15. Good looking steel JD, Its funny how necessity is the mother of invention! on the last billet of feathers I did I cut myself a little starting notch in with the grinder aswell! I see you have gone about the pattern 'opposite' to me, ie start at 30 ish layers and go for 3 or 4 'feathers per inch' ( I start at about 8 layers, and go for 20 ish 'feathers per inch' ) The one thing ive started to do different on this pattern which has improved my success is 'dry' weld after the final cut (I think I read about it on bladeforums a while back) , what I do is cut right through the billet,
  16. Hey Casey, The material is 15n20 & 1080. It looked amazing straight from the etch black and silver (they allways look good untill you clean the scuz off them!). I finished to 400 grit after H.T, etched, then used 1000 grit to polish up the higher layers (15n20). I find if you take the picture in good daylight against a dark background in 'macro' mode on the camera it comes out OK. Basically, keep adjusting the position of the blade so there is no refection on it, and you can see the pattern well by eye, then take the photo from that angle! (camera flash off)
  17. Casey, knife looks real good, sorry to thread hijack a bit here talking about the feather pattern,..... DJ, You can get huge material loss with this pattern, occasionally it all goes perfect but very often you loose a lot chopping the ends from the billet etc. The blade below started as 100mm x 35mm x 40mm ish. This one all went well and I got the blade size I was aiming for. (though it has a defect in the final middle weld, my fault for trying to work bevels in to cold an a power hammer! With This pattern I dont think of it as layers in the billet, If you start off with 10 piece
  18. I think a lot depends on the intended use of the knife, A full flat with no secondary bevel will be razor like sharp, but a very thin edge, a secondary gives somthing that can easily be resharpened and a bit more strength to the edge, or am I missing something? im only just getting started in this game so interested in all thoughts!
  19. True, but if you look at the actual finish thicknesses over on IFI some of the bigger hammers are getting more reduction, but not by much, ie a 155lb 'Big Blu' (which needs 10hp worth of compressors for continuous running) isnt doing much more work than a 55lb anyang self contained (4hp) Ric, hammer looks really nice !, (ive not found you that 400 ton screw press yet, ill let you know when one turns up!
  20. Hi Marius, My current prices for the hammers are £gbp 3150 for the 15 kg (single phase) - £ 4700 for the 25kg. (prices at May 2009, subject to conf at time of order, etc etc!) Norcargo will do a very competitive shipping price. Im not sure what the tax situation would be for Norway, you may have to pay import duty, VAT or similar on importing the machine ( I was in Norway last year and you guys know how to make things expensive! I do 90% of my patternwelding on a 15 kg machine, Owen bush has patternwelded swords on one without much difficulty. Ive only got one 25kg machine in
  21. I started forging this one at Owen Bush's Hammerin last month. I got a decent shot of motivation there, and seeing some of the blades folks had with them made me realise ive got a l o o o n g way to go! - Ive been forging about 18 months now, but very rarely ever take anything past rough grind and etch. When I got back from Owens I finished building a grinder, and this is the third 'victim' I flat ground it to 120, then hand sanded it to 800. I actually enjoyed the finishing work, though its time consuming! - it was nice to work on somthing I knew would etch and H.T right (1080 & 15n
  22. I sell these things in the UK, so im not entirely unbiased ! Owen Bush held a (fantastic) forge in at his works in London UK last month (put it in your diary for next year!!), I lent this little Anyang 25 kg (55lb) self contained for the masses to have a play on. It ran like a sewing machine throughout the event and had a good few billets welded up and drawn under it,. Just a nice size machine for patternwelding, its got the control, and enough umph to draw out a sizeable billet. Anyway, heres a few clips of it in action. If youve got any questions about it ill have a go at answering
  23. Theres no such thing as a free lunch im afraid! you will allways be confined to the usefull work your press can do by pump pressure & flow rate, and piston diameter. Youve just got to balance these to get the press to do what you want. Ie quicker press with less top end tonnage use a smaller dia cylinder for a given pump capacity. The other thing I would have major concerns about is the rigidity of the frame / cantalever arm etc. you will have to have at least 3 pivot points on the arm, & bottom pivot for the cylinder, and some kind of link to transfer the arc motion of the arm int
  24. Thanks for all the positives everyone! Bit of a naughty pattern to forge so im just made up its in one piece! The pattern will even up to a degree on both sides when its ground a bit thinner so hopefully it will still have a bit of individuallity, but not look like 2 different patterns. Sam, very flattering and quite funny, Im not really a knifemaker, ive only ever finished 2 knives! Im just working on getting the steel right at the moment though have just bought a grinder so should be able to move on a step in the next few months. It will be a l o n g time before im confiden
  25. jared, yup, there is somthing very dark about it, Im not into pointy fighty type knives but this one has been asking to be leaned up since I forged it. Wierd that a bit of metal can evoke a feeling, Im going to have to forge somthing a bit more friendly next.. Andrew, no worries that it got over etched, the whole thing is still 1/4" thick, a bit of grinding to do on it yet ! (If I ever get a grinder This one will get w.i fittings I was planning to heavily etch, I diddnt think about the guard slot going oversize - thanks for the heads up! - ill leave that small before etching it and size a
  • Create New...