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John N

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Everything posted by John N

  1. my little 'mini me' forge monkey is bit younger (at a guess, mines 4 1/2!) nice when they forget about the telly for a bit
  2. This is the last blade I have to finish up forged last year, Im more than ready to start forging again! its 250mm along the edge, so a bit of a beast. The forging on this one was pretty crap, core is not as well centred as I like, and I left it way to thick, so its been a PITA to grind. All things to improve on. Blade is stainless clad Aogami super blue, with Ni barrier. (This material is purchased pre-laminated, kinda cheating, but its lovely) Its an hour of fettling away from being ready for a handle. I will put some home stabalised beech on it, probably,
  3. If I am interpreting the problem correctly, I would slide the guard into position on the tang, and give it a wollop with a hammer to close the gap up, then slide it off and true the faces up.
  4. A couple of pics of wood I have stabalised in the kit shown above. I got the wood pieces from a slightly hippy chap on Bridport market in Dorset, who has all kinds of interesting bits and pieces, after I had chopped it up it worked out at about £0.60 a block. ($1 usd ish) The juice consumption is looking at being less than £2.00 a block, so its not an expensive process all things considered. This is only my second run with the kit, so take anything I say as if you are listening to an enthusiastic newby! Fist pic is the timber as bought (very punky, but pretty), second pic is staba
  5. @owen bush This is the kit I got from amazon in the UK. As mentioned on the phone, I would get a pot that was the same diameter, or bigger (this ones 25 cms), but deeper if I was to buy again, so I did not need to monitor the foaming for the 1st 10 mins of vacuum. Pump and tank were about £230 all in, and the US (baby) gallon of juice was £100 ish. The blanks go in the cut down swarfega tubs in the resin (3rd pic). The resin is not directly in the chamber. The lid of the tank is glass, pretty chunky thickness. I have been told that a 2 stage pu
  6. Its such a shallow arc you could freehand it on a piece of steel, on a slack belt, 'good enough'
  7. If I was going to make something commercially (which I have zero interest in doing!) I would make what I have pictured above, (works perfectly), but possibly add a hole through the platten that an airline could be connected to, a few PSI would 'float' the belt off the platen a few thou when grinding pressure was not applied to it. It would be a much simpler solution than water cooling. I can grind 1/2 a dozen knives one after another on the one I have pictured without heat issues, so it might be a waste of time (gimmick)
  8. yes, it was a double spherical roller bearing from a clutch on a 2500 ton Massey we rebuilt. I rebuild forging machinery so end up with all kinds of interesting odds and ends!
  9. I have got lots of the bearing left, but postage would be killer ! - By just using a small 4" chord of the bearing it keeps the frictional area down (reducing the heat build up)
  10. I use a chunk from the outer race of a big (very big) roller bearing. It is simulating a 600mm diameter wheel. As it is from a bearing, it is pot hard, that helps with it not wearing prematurely. As it is a substantial lump of steel it gets warm, but not concerningly hot - Its best not to have the belt too tight though! I grind with the belt 'running away' from me in this configuration, so all the crap is flying away from me!
  11. Its sawdust. It stops the forging sticking in the dies.
  12. The forging being done in the opening sequence of the film is a massive pipe clamp (all these went to the states), the set of gears in the second shot is the back of a 1000 ton+ 'Toledo' trimming press. (might be a 1500 ton?)
  13. The Dg40 in there is an interesting one. Its was made by English steel company just before ww2. There was a smaller Beche that they copied. It was the only hammer in the UK that was big enough to forge the crank for the Rolls Royce 'Merlin' engine, which was a major contributory factor to success in the 'battle of Britain' which swung the war. (knock off hammer ) The bottom 'tup' on the '40' is about 60 ton, the top about 45. The 2 tups are connected by steel bands over rollers. The top tup is pushed down by compressed air, pulling the bottom tup up via the bands. The top moves fur
  14. I was in there on Friday! - I found the floor plate with ''barry can't arf weld' on it! The big drop stamps are Massey 8 - 10 - 12 ton, the counterblow is a biggie, a Beche DG40. One of my best customers, I do a heck of a lot of work on the stamps.
  15. It does have a fat ass, but it looks good Jake! - Since no handles really seem to have survived from the originals, they might all have been 'fuller figured'
  16. Im happy with the shape, but following a bit more research the construction of the patternweld is a bit off! Yeah, will be at owens
  17. hey big sam ! hope your well ! - still down under ? The cows in the UK have felt a lot safer recently Thanks! - this will be historically inaccurate, but I will have fun finishing it !
  18. bummer........ Ive welded up lots of saw blades, of all different flavours, and never had a big problem with them. The HSS is usually only the teeth. I have found the backing material can be a bit 'Chromy' which makes it slippery to weld though. (Weld looks stuck, but then slips forged on edge) - The M42 bandsaw blades I use can be up to 3% chrome, away from the teeth. Nice and bright in etch. I still use M42 backing in my wrought iron 'damascus' all the time. Crumbly is usually over heating. Ive had O1 'cottage cheese' before now. No going back once its gone!
  19. thanks @Alan ! I managed to get a few historically accurate weld defects in there for you
  20. Had a nice chilled last day of the holidays before back to work 'proper' tomorrow. I just went with the flow on the forging, and it came out not too bad. Few weld defects here and there, but nothing I was not expecting. Using old material of variable consistency, and bloom steel does not help! Blade has come out 19" long, plus the handle. Its 7 mm at the beak, with a little bit of 'reverse' distal taper to the tang. The first two photos are 100% as forged, no grinding at all. The second 'in the vice' photo is after I knocked some weight off it on
  21. Forging day on this lump tomorrow, after a forced week off, drinking and fishing, and thinking about forging ! There is no way the smiths of old would have sacrificed as much material to the grinder as I was intending to on this, for the weight of the preform (aka, the blade as it is now), it should be 50% longer, and I hope to make it so - will try and get some pictures of 'glory, or scrap pile' in progress!
  22. Will do if I remember ! can get drunk and start the regrind on it
  23. Thanks for the encouragement! Im away from the forge for a few days, so have had a good bit of time to look at where I am at with this, and I think I can see where I am going with it now. Might be as well I stopped with it where I did on the first forging. Been looking at seax profiles for rather longer than is healthy, and remembered I joined a seax group on F-B, where I see a few familiar names, and lots of very solid information. I think another decent forging session can make it longer, thicker at the spine, and a nice profile. Hopefully if it goes as I
  24. Thanks guys ! - Finishing this one can wait for a while, I got my forging groove on yesterday and am seaxing now ! - I put a thread in show and tell.
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