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John N

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Everything posted by John N

  1. Got my annual post Christmas forge day today, went in with no plan, other than to patternweld something! I had a variety of bits and bobs of interesting material knocking about, so just went at it, with no real plan. ( well, actually the plan was for something a bit longer than this, but the wrought iron laminate really did not like being twisted!) I had a lump of wrought iron 'damascus' left over from cladding material for the chefs knifes, I think its wrought / mild / possibly a hint of shiny metal in there. It had 90 layers chalked on it, it looks low layer in the tw
  2. It was that time Alan! there was certainly smoke and fire in the air. Great Days. I will finish this one, one day, but the day is not now. It needs to loose half a pound, knowing what I know now, and grinding is not much fun. I need to weld again. Its feeling close. @Zeb Camper Ill have a look at the book tomorrow to see the blade, I don't want to copy old exactly, but if I can catch a spark from it ill go from there. Ive got some medieval horseshoe remains and some wrought iron, but too many real life commitments to make steel - though I do have half a blo
  3. On top of a bookshelf, in the lounge, I found a blade. I made this 10 years ago, the muse sat on my shoulder, and it just happened. My one and only sword! At the time it was intended as a dig at the 'your a newby, you must make coat hooks crowd' but I fell down the rabbit hole. Its 10 bars, with the edges a serpent. I was pretty washed out when I finished it, and did not try again. Im now feeling a little itch, starting to get more irritating. I think the next one will be darker ! what do I make ? I will dig out 'swords of the viking age' tomorro
  4. should be fine! If I run a motor very very slowly through a vfd for any length of time for some reason my gut feeling is its not doing it any good. This is not based on any facts though ! Motors are plenty cheap nowadays, so I would not sweat it too much whatever I do. Sell a knife, pay for new motor.
  5. Gifting round the tree this Yuletide, the socks are changing hands, brightly wrapped. My face set to 'polite' when passed my gift from the inlaws but...... wait a min! Antique 16" slashing billhook ! " we don't think you have one of those ?! " Hope you all got something that made you smile - Seasons Greatings to you all
  6. Made a pair from scratch for myself, then my UK customers who saw them wanted them, so now I get Anyang to make them, and I supply them with the hammers. If you hit up James Johnson, and tell him you want a pair of john @ masseys UK Bladesmith dies he will get you a price. They are H13 as they take a lot of clatter due to the small contact area. Send me an email to john at masseyforging dot com and I can send you some pics in the new year.
  7. Profile looks nice to my eye. If I was making it......... blade shape perfect, angle of the tang needs to be kicked up a couple of degrees so the 'butt' of the handle is higher. This will give an easy 'flat' line along the whole top of the knife, and keep the tang in the middle of the handle, which minimises the chances of 'grind through' (assuming you want the aesthetic of a straight line along the top of the blade and handle!!)
  8. your forgings look super clean! - I also do 95% of my blade work on an Anyang 33lb hammer. I made a set of dies that are similar to the Japanese classic bladesmithing dies. (round top die with crown, flat 'anvil' bottom die)
  9. Found a couple of pics on my phone! The ducting is 4" dia to the back , and to the hood under the front of the grinder (switchable by fully sealed dampers in the all metal ducting). The block of wood I mentioned above fits in the big gap between the top and bottom of the belt, leaving a small aperture which increases air velocity where it matters. not pictured. I still have some tweaking to do on the system. At the moment its a 1/2 hp metal dust extractor unit from a jones and shipman surface grinder, pulling through a cyclone. I will upgrade to 2hp when I find the rig
  10. I have a Wilton Sq wheel that I have modded the chassis length on to run 2 mtr belts. I kept the side door on mine, and am now glad I did! I run it in reverse, and have cut the back off the grinder, and mounted it to dust collector! - It is really very effective. I have a piece of wood that fills the gap between the top and bottom on the belt that increases air velocity for the extraction. I also have a catcher hood under the front for when I run it 'forwards' - have a couple of blast gates to select which way it sucks!
  11. I had to google 'go mai' ! - yes it is The handle is bog oak, and Zebrano. Ill make sure I leave them something. Just wish they would stop hiding all my tools when I need them
  12. A funny one, I have no recollection of forging this one, Im guessing it went the in 'meeeh' pile as it was probably supposed to be longer than it is! Ive only worked with Blue2 core steel for the last couple of years, and its def, my blade stamp which ive had for less than 2 years, so I did make it! - I think its wrought, 15n20, with blue 2 core. I put a photo of the bare blade on instagram a few weeks ago, and it was snapped up - customer chose the handle material which I was very unsure about, but I now think it looks quite jolly. Nice to move away from my 'dark place
  13. Ive had to work quite hard to get 'brut de forge' looking smooth. Im still not there, but getting closer with every blade. Im also getting faster, way faster. Faster than grinding will ever be to get distal taper, and profile on the section of the blade. I love forging, and am a bit 'meeh' about grinding, so the better I can get a forging as near as possible is a bonus for me. People will certainly pay good money for a kitchen knife that is mostly forged finish. The nice thing is there is 6bn people on the planet, so you dont need a very high % of those 6bn people to
  14. I try and leave 60% of my blades surface as forged (kitchen knives). I try very hard not to leave forging marks in it though! (I also cold forge to refine the surface finish) The massive advantage to me of forging very close to finish is the very minimum grinding time, the initial grind can be set in just a few passes. I mostly work with San Mai construction material. On Japanese kitchen knives it is very difficult to grind the geometry so it has to be forged (there is quite an aggressive section change from the tang to the blade.)
  15. the originally posted knife would look better 'stabbier' IMO - The edited posts makes me feel ive missed something on the critique of the knife.
  16. Ive had a long year with work and responsibilities, but I have tried to make a bit of therapy time for the craft, and push to improve at making. This is the last one out of the stable for 2019, its a 240 x 50 gyuto, in a wrought iron damascus san mai, over blue paper steel, with a chunky nickle barrier layer in the mix. Im happy with it when I compare it to what I was making 12 months ago! pics are a bit washed out, but its got character in real life! Handle is bog oak, with a copper spacer. Happy making next year everyone! ive got so many ideas for 2020, i
  17. Looks good, but I agree with Jake, from the butt of the handle, to the tip of the blade always looks cleaner as a gentle shallow curve (flattened rainbow)
  18. Put a working finish on the big Gyuto I posted a few days ago, and its showing promise! Might go full kasumi on this one
  19. Baby Sujihiki, probably started life as a little gyuto I started with the wrong stock size for Blade is aogami super blue, with stainless cladding, handle is rosewood and bog oak. Im hoping my productive making streak over the last month will die out soon, ive got lots of jobs to do around the house in my spare time!
  20. got a bit done on a couple of interesting ones today! I have zero recollection of forging the deba! - it was quite a surprise to find it was funky patternweld. I think its blue paper steel core, 15n20 cheeks, and wrought iron cladding! The biggy is a 250 x 50 gyuto, with wrought iron damascus cheeks, pure Ni barrier. Its shaping up to be a good one. I was commissioned to make it at the start of the year. It looks nice with all the etch scuz cleaned off it. Ill get some proper photos of this one when its done!
  21. Sneaked a bit of finishing time this afternoon, after work, before home time ! - Im pushing to get some orders done before Christmas, and Ideally would like to get a few more forged before the holidays! This is a stainless clad Nakiri i'm working on, I put this photo on instagram this evening as a 'work in progress' and sold it in about 3 mins! happy days!
  22. Got stuck into re-building this Massey 2 cwt hammer, that I have swapped for a decent looking rolling mill! Dont really need a 7.5 ton rolling mill to be honest, but they are like hens teeth, and im looking to the future a bit
  23. Off to a good start! - If you don't mind a bit of advice, I would say start with smaller blades. You will learn a lot more forging 3 x 4" blades in a session than trying to flog out one monster! One advantage of doing smaller blades is you don't have as much invested in each one, so you can chuck it if it starts to go wrong, without the frustration.
  24. Im not so concerned about the odd bits of tropical wood I use, but do have a ponder every time I swap over a 47kg propane tank I've burnt through, basically for fun.
  25. It would look, and probably perform quite well with a cord wrap handle. TBH, a large pointy screwdriver would be a more practical, and defensible defence solution to keep in the vehicle.
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