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    Southwest Arkansas
  • Interests
    Knife making, family, hunting, farming but not always in that order.
  1. jarrett

    KITH 2012

    Gentlemen, I must withdraw my name from the KITH for this year. I will not have time to finish my projects as I and my unit have been ordered to active duty in OEF. The time I have left at home is going to be spent with the family. Maybe I can get in on one later next year. I am enjoying seeing everyones progress.
  2. I purchased mine from Tracey Mickley also. It really does work great. I've attached a poor picture here of two blades in the tempering oven now. THey are blotchy a bit and somewhat discolored but most of that came from the tempering process. I've gotten even better results than this. What you see here though was obtained after coating the blade, running through three normalizing cycles, heat treating at 1500 and quenching in oil. Then simply rubbed lightly with a kitchen towel and warm water. Alan, I'll have to try the mixture you mentioned. I've only heated and sifted to coat. This can result in some uneven coating and thus the blotchiness in some places. THe blotchiness is only on the surface and easily removed. As a note, I contacted Tracey Mickley for info on the "high temp" version. His reply was that the better option for high temp steels such as D2 or A2 is to just use the foil. The high temp PBC was not panning out.
  3. A word of warning for anyone who might use PBC in the future. I've recently begun using PBC antiscale powder to minimize scale after hardening. I purchased the regular; it is rated up to 1650. This stuff works GREAT. I really love it, when used correctly there is virtually no, and I mean no scale or markings from the heat treat process. It has allowed me grind much closer to finished prior to heat treat. However, it clearly states "up to 1650". Do not exceed this temperature with the regular. I ran up an A2 blade to 1750 to harden. I figured it would maybe not work as good. What it does do is bond and eat into the metal in places so that there is a significant amount of grinding required after heat treating to get back to unmarred metal again. It is much worse than any scale I've encountered. I'm not sure what the stuff is but man it got down in there. When used correctly, it literally falls off with a little light rubbing under water leaving the blade in great condition.
  4. Here is the link about my press. I've been extremely pleased with it. I've used it some for welding but mostly for stock reduction; all the heavy moving. As you'll see, I started with a factory press frame and built on to it. Good building and let us see what you come up with. http://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?showtopic=19212&st=0&p=179089&fromsearch=1entry179089
  5. I had tried a few different products a couple of years ago and the one I settle on had a 30 minute set time. It is no longer available though. I've read through testing results here and on several other web sites; some knife related, some not. I use a few different products now. Wood on wood I'm using gorilla glue. At the ricasso/guard I'm using JB Weld. Tang to handle material: If I wan't a quicker set up I use Loctite 328. Fairly fluid material and requires an activator. Most of the time I use Loctite, Hysol 120 HP. It comes in a dual tube set up. You have to use an applicator gun(think caulk gun). You can also get mixing tubes that attach and dispense the product mixed ready to use. It has a 120 minute set up time. The loctite products are both structural, commercial type adhesives. I've got some of the West Systems epoxy and some of the Acraglass though I've not used either yet. I really should do a trial of all and see what results I come up with. I just haven't taken the time. I've changed jobs recently and get little enough time in the shop as it is. I'm relying on testing, results, and procedures proved by others. To date with fantastic results. One note about adhesion. I'll try and find the posts that provided the following tips; they have proved true for me. THE CONDTION OF THE MATERIALS BONDED AND THE PROCEDURE/APPLICATION APPEARS MORE IMPORTANT THAN THE ADHESIVE. Many of the adhesive today are great products and will perform excellently. The conditions I've found to work the best are as follows. Metal to be bonded should be sand blasted (where possible) as opposed to scratched (say with a 60 grit belt). I've been able to do this with a cheap gravity feed gun from harbor freight. On wood, don't sand too fine, 120 or less is adequate. This has the added benefit of on mortise tangs of hiding the seam. Using an 80 grit on the bonding surfaces allows the wood to mesh at the joint and blend better. Don't press the joint too tightly.
  6. I ordered several products earlier this year. No problem getting it then.
  7. Thanks for the kind comments. It was a challenge to do a hollow grind; I just don't do it that often. It took a while to get it right enough for my satisfaction; this time. I've already got another one in the works and hope to do better. Wouldn't damascus be great for some very special pieces? But sadly, I think though I haven't verified this, there have not been any damascus versions made. Maybe I'll try some time. The design is pretty distinctive. I tried to keep the blade as accurate as possible based on pictures available and those I've seen and handled. The knife, our Brigade, and a bit about it are in the 2005 issue of Blade. The cover is pictured here. I've handled those made by Mr. Teague, they are fantastic and solid built knives. .jpg]
  8. So, my Brigade, the 39th IBCT, is known as the Bowie Brigade. Officers and NCOs at the field grade are authorized to wear a Bowie Knife. This knife is not a random bowie of their choosing. They are built to a certain specification, by the contracted maker for the brigade at the direction of the Brigade Commander or Deputy Commander only. The current maker is Kenny Teague. The knife shown here is modeled on this specific knife and I've made it for a retired 1SG, who had he stayed in, would have most definitely rose to the level of CSM and earned the right to carry one of these knives. I've built some small but purposeful differences into my version so it could not be easily confused with a Teague "authorized" knife. It is not my intent to "knock off" his work but to provide a respected NCO with a well built, custom Bowie as a retirement gift and thank you for his service. Here it is. Steel is D2, fixtures are brass, handle is paper micarta.
  9. Sorry. I don't have anything. I looked on etsy.com. There were a few on there, but probably not in a reasonable price range for a project like this.
  10. Amazing lines on that one.
  11. I'd find out if he wants a an good EDC or if this is something for his field gear. If its EDC and he'll be wearing it with his ACUs, you wouldn't want it to hang below the bottom of the ACU top. If it did, it wouldn't comply with the uniform wear policies. If with his field gear, then no problem. Most of us(at least in my unit) carry some sort of knife with our LCV when in the field, if not two or three. Then again we are known as the Bowie Brigade; where field grade officers/NCOs are authorized to wear a serialized Bowie with their ACU at all times. All times that is unless we go to a post or location where the higher HQ commander directs otherwise. Commanders always have the discretion to go stricter than policy. As for legal issues; when we were shipping out of Iraq, a few of our guys had to leave behind some knives because the blade exceeded what was allowed by the customs inspectors. I don't remember the exact length though, sorry. Have him check into it. As for whats useful, I prefer about a 4 to 5 inch blade, with a fairly thick clip point, moderately thick stock with a small guard, and mand made handle. I've found overall length is best if kept under 10". This fits on my gear easily, draws easily, is durable, doesn't draw alot of attention, and is useful for most everything; prying, cutting, stabbing, poking, etc. I've never had to use it in close combat, nor am I experienced at fighting with a blade. For a tool though, this is what I'd recommend. I'd suggest when you get an ideal of what you wan't to do, work up a wood model and have him check it out.
  12. jarrett

    KITH 2012

    2012 KITH List: 1. SamD - AKA - Sam Duckworth, Sopchoppy, Fla. 2. John Page 3. Mathew Kinmond - Canada, Ontario 4. Kip Kaiser - Williamston, SC 5. Troy Christianson - Faribault, Minnesota 6. Dion Grethen - Rice Lake, WI 7. JJ Simon - Delmar DE. 8. Mark Green NC 9. Bret Cutshall - Saint Helens, Or 10. Geoff Keyes - Duvall Wa 11. Nate Runals- Michigan 12. Jason Mather- La Crosse WI 13. Kyle (rockin a new forge) O'Donnell -grants pass, OR 14. Kevin hopkins- harbinger north carolina 15. Kevin Colwell- Cheshire, CT 16. Jarrett Rhodes - Vilonia, AR
  13. That is fantastic. I especially like the union and flow of the guard and bolster into the handle. Just excellent.
  14. Every thing I've read indicates the temperature and times used have much more to do with the characteristics of the finish product than the physical manipulation. These treatments cause changes in the grain size, and shape, solution of elements, formation of carbide, etc.
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