Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by godzilka

  1. Incredibly inspirational. Thank you.
  2. That is an impressive forge. And very reasonably priced as well.
  3. From my experience, I don't buy Nicholson anymore. Craftsman actually have been the best files I've used so far (which isn't saying much). I'll definitely give Harbor Freight a try. I love that place.
  4. That is a beautiful piece of work. I love the concept of using meteorite. Speaking of which, where did you get meteorite (if you don't mind me asking)?
  5. Thank you all for the comments and kind words. Sam and Dee, while I hadn't thought about it, yes, I suppose having some experience using blades does inform design (besides the SCA, I did arnis/escrima/kali when younger, with a bit of fencing and kendo thrown in). Dave, I agree with your assessment. With the back of the handle, I was kind of going for the effect a zulu iklwa has, where the back flairs out so that were you to run someone through, as you pull out the back stops your hand from slipping off then end if the blade sticks. That kinda then translated to the front of the handle
  6. Thanks David. I now have my shop setup, so I'm hoping to get more out soon.
  7. Hey Shadow smith, nope, this is a first for me. I made some armor in the SCA about 20 years ago, so I have some history of metalwork, but I don't find many overlapping skills. As for the edge, it's much clearer in person. I took probably a hundred shots, but none really show the blade shape. There is a false bevel on the top that runs about 40% of the blade length, and the bottom is all edge. It's just really hard to see in the photos.
  8. Well, after many months of occasional work in a friends shop, I've finished my first blade. Here it is: Blade 16.25" LOA 23.5" Wt 2 lbs The blade is 5160, triple normalized and quenched in oil. Tempered at 400 for 2 hours. Bloodwood handle (five coats of linseed and 2 of wax), brass guard and pommel. It's nice to finally have something to share. Sorry I suck at photography. All comments are welcome. If I had it to do over, I'd have read the advice to beginners posted on this forum and not violated basically every rule (start small, start simple). However, I'm extremely happy
  9. Stunning work. You are a source of endless inspiration. And zombie stories.
  10. Thanks, that is a good idea. I'll look into that.
  11. I got some of the 8670 from Admiral, and am happy with it so far (but am too new to this to have an informed opinion). I realize it's not L6, but is there anything "wrong" with 8670?
  12. I have a HT question. Does the volume of liquid used have an effect on the quench? As an example, let's say I have a 3.5 inch 5160 blade, and I'm going to quench in soybean oil. I have a quart, half gallon, and gallon container for the oil. What, if any, is the difference? The greater the volume, the great the heat displacement, correct? So is there any practical difference? I'd assume the quicker the blade is cooled, the better. I'd also assume agitated liquid is better than calm liquid. Is there a cheap way to agitate the liquid during quenching?
  13. Thanks Jeroen, that works for me.
  14. My understanding is more in line with both of yours. I was just wondering if there had been a "ruling" on this, or if it was nebulous to others as well.
  15. What is the boundary between a knife and a short sword? Is there some cross-over? I thought I read somewhere that anything with an 18" or greater blade would be considered a sword, but honestly any designation seems arbitrary to me.
  16. What is the proper term for this area? I’ve heard it called the ricasso, but isn’t that really what is below this point? I’ve also heard plunge cut. Also, is it called different things if it’s abrupt (like in the picture), vs. if it’s sloping or rounded?
  • Create New...