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Posts posted by godzilka

  1. Thank you all for the comments and kind words.


    Sam and Dee, while I hadn't thought about it, yes, I suppose having some experience using blades does inform design (besides the SCA, I did arnis/escrima/kali when younger, with a bit of fencing and kendo thrown in).


    Dave, I agree with your assessment. With the back of the handle, I was kind of going for the effect a zulu iklwa has, where the back flairs out so that were you to run someone through, as you pull out the back stops your hand from slipping off then end if the blade sticks. That kinda then translated to the front of the handle to balance it out, then I noticed it looked rather Gladius. My original intention was to rap the middle part of the handle with leather, but I can't bring myself to cover up the bloodwood. I also left the amount of wood I did for balance. The balance point is right where the blade and guard meet.

  2. Nice!


    very cool overall shape. Crisp clean lines, & looks like a mighty fine chopper.


    Cant wait to see more :)


    Thanks David. I now have my shop setup, so I'm hoping to get more out soon.

  3. wow thats good,for a moment there i thought you made the edge on the wrong side but now i see why.i take it this isnt your fisrt ever forging?and finshing of something


    Hey Shadow smith, nope, this is a first for me. I made some armor in the SCA about 20 years ago, so I have some history of metalwork, but I don't find many overlapping skills.


    As for the edge, it's much clearer in person. I took probably a hundred shots, but none really show the blade shape. There is a false bevel on the top that runs about 40% of the blade length, and the bottom is all edge. It's just really hard to see in the photos.

  4. Well, after many months of occasional work in a friends shop, I've finished my first blade. Here it is:

    Blade 16.25"

    LOA 23.5"

    Wt 2 lbs

    The blade is 5160, triple normalized and quenched in oil. Tempered at 400 for 2 hours. Bloodwood handle (five coats of linseed and 2 of wax), brass guard and pommel.







    It's nice to finally have something to share. Sorry I suck at photography. All comments are welcome. If I had it to do over, I'd have read the advice to beginners posted on this forum and not violated basically every rule (start small, start simple). However, I'm extremely happy with the outcome.


    Also, more pics here:


  5. you could use a cheap hand blender set on low some of the cheapy shops or pawn shops may have one for a few bucks make up a fitting to hook onto your quench tank too easy mate

    hope this helps



    Thanks, that is a good idea. I'll look into that.

  6. I have a HT question. Does the volume of liquid used have an effect on the quench? As an example, let's say I have a 3.5 inch 5160 blade, and I'm going to quench in soybean oil. I have a quart, half gallon, and gallon container for the oil. What, if any, is the difference? The greater the volume, the great the heat displacement, correct? So is there any practical difference? I'd assume the quicker the blade is cooled, the better. I'd also assume agitated liquid is better than calm liquid. Is there a cheap way to agitate the liquid during quenching?

  7. It's the same thing with daggers and sword. I use swords for bronze age swords with blades of 30cm, while there are plenty of longer daggers. Though that's because they're clearly one the evolutionary path of swords, away from daggers, having lost the tool function and becoming full weapons at that point.


    But usually when they're in the grey zone, I stay away of using dagger/knife/sword terminology. F.e. long saxes I simply call long saxes, rather then single edge swords or really big knives.


    Thanks Jeroen, that works for me.

  8. What is the proper term for this area? I’ve heard it called the ricasso, but isn’t that really what is below this point? I’ve also heard plunge cut. Also, is it called different things if it’s abrupt (like in the picture), vs. if it’s sloping or rounded?


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