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M Parker

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About M Parker

  • Birthday 08/13/1969

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  • Location
    Raleigh, NC
  • Interests
    Bladesmithing (focused on Viking Age Scandiniavian and Japanese styles and techniques), reproducing historic bladesmithing techniques, fencing, Aikido, Iaido, motorcycling, cooking and finishing my business degree.

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  1. Hey folks, Just taking a guess since the photo's out of focus. But it seems to me that the majority of these blades have more damage to one edge than the other. And since, as far as I can tell, this damage is on the concave side of the blade curvature, do you think it's more likely that the curvature is a result of use rather than quenching? It looks like the curvature is a result of long use and repeated impacts mainly against one edge of the blade. Have we seen the same curvature in relatively undamaged blades? I've also noticed the tendencies that Dustin mentioned in seaxes and kniv
  2. Hey all, I am getting more and more interested in doing wire inlay in my blades and fittings. Is there a particular source anyone here would recommend for where to get tools and which specific tools would be good to start out with? In case it makes a difference, I'm mainly focusing on Germanic blades in the 600-1200 AD range. Any advice will be appreciated, ~Michael
  3. Actually, all three blades were made by Takeshi Saji (they're all on the same web page). The second blade is a Kiridashi in a configuration commonly used by carpenters. On that one, I was mainly curious if there was a significance to the fish shape of the knife, as it seems fairly common (i.e.; is the tail end used for some special purpose?). The third blade looks like a bamboo froe with a concave edge. I wondered if this was specialized for a particular purpose or just an aesthetic modification. I am also very curious about the scabbards on all three knives. How they were made and worn, and w
  4. Thanks very much for the clarification, Toxonix. Do you have any info (or know where I can get some in English) on the scabbards? ~Michael
  5. That seems to be the Japanese way of doing it based on the many videos I've found. They keep a smaller bucket of water near the anvil, just dunk their hammer and move it quickly over the anvil a couple times before pulling the steel out of the forge. I've tried it once or twice and will probably continue experimenting with it (after investing in some ear plugs since I largely work in the doorway of my shop). It's definitely much faster than using a wire brush and it's one less tool I need to pick up.
  6. Thanks very much for the suggestions guys. Looks like 1080's going to cover my needs. So I'll be ordering some soon to experiment with. Any suggestions on a good source in the US?
  7. Hey folks! I need some advice on what direction I would start going as a bladesmith. I've been using almost exclusively recycled steel for my knives for many years now and I've come to the conclusion that if I'm going to pursue this seriously, I need to pick one or two steels and get really familiar with what they can and can't do and how to get the most out of them. So, here's how far I've gotten: I like working with simple steels that I can heat treat myself without specialized equipment. I want something that will show a nice hamon. I want something I can pattern weld with. I mostly do
  8. Sorry, question withdrawn. I missed the answer to my question in the last post.
  9. Thank you so much for posting! I love the tanto with the lobster and octopus furniture on the saya. My wife and I went to the Boston Museum a couple years ago and I took several pictures of the Japanese collection. When I locate them, I'll be sure to post them as well.
  10. That fountain pen in the second photo is extremely cool! I must have one someday.
  11. Beautiful work, sir! I really appreciate posting the process you used on making the grip. I haven't seen info on its construction before.
  12. Zoe, Thanks for the tips! I'll be sure to try out your techniques. Just checked out your site. You do some beautiful work, sir! And congratulations on your son!
  13. Zoe, if you don't mind my asking, how do you do your logo? Is that copper inlay? It looks really sharp!
  14. Greg, That is some beautiful work! I have question for you if you don't mind. How did you get the tooth pattern on the back of the blade. Since it appears to be the same on both sides of the blade, that eliminates my original idea. Btw, that spear is stunning!
  15. Darrell and Jeroen, this clears up some of the confusion, I think, between what I have asked and how it was interpreted. I have always taken Darrell's approach that the term 'seax' refers to the general shape, not the size or function of a blade. Btw, I thought you'd be on this list, Darrell. If knives were generally carried vertically in period (speaking mainly of Scandinavian culture here), how were they suspended? Was there a belt loop/slit on the back or side of the scabbard? I have seen some rather ornate scabbards with a tab connected to a ring suspended from a belt loop, or a ring c
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