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JMJones

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  1. why was denim a mistake?
  2. I have a 55lb striker hammer (anyang style), with the top die stuck in the up position. I had a stuck die and was hammering out the key and it must have moved a bit and when I turned the hammer on the tup is stuck inside the body of the hammer. Anyone know how to get it back down?
  3. Also Thanks given to Delbert Ealy and the late John White with helping me through this pattern!
  4. Ten bar multi twist Blade Material: - Turkish twist 1084/15n20 Blade length: 240mm Height at Heel: 48mm Spine thickness @ heel: 3.45 Spine thickness 1 cm from tip: 1.4mm Handle: Ironwood and African Blackwood Weight: 260 gm Available Here
  5. Great video's! The blades in question are a mix of soft iron and high carbon steel. When the soft iron is supporting the high carbon steel it will actually bend and take a set when cold forged. This allows the smith to straighten the blade by cold forging. When a fully high carbon blade is struck cold it deforms then returns to its previous shape and does not take a set. I know this does not explain the pre ht cold forging but does explain the benefits of cold forging after ht, especially because the warping that happens when heat treating two different steels in a laminate blade.
  6. I believe I saw one on facebook by Quick and Dirty Tool. Looked simple enough
  7. I have done this and researched it by talking to others who have done it as well. Depending on the edge thickness, a nickel layer may be required to stop carbon migration if the high carbon steel edge will be quite thin. Basically to forge weld the nickel and the stainless have to be in an oxygen free environment. I just mig welded all the edges of the five layer billet after first grinding all of the steel clean and flat. I have had some success and some failure, most of the failure comes when I try to forge on the edge of the billet with a power hammer or press, it delaminates.
  8. I would love a wip. I am about to forge my first stainless damascus to try my hand at ring making.
  9. JMJones

    W's Gyuto

    Specs Blade: 1084/15n20 high carbon steel Handle: Ironwood Burl and African Blackwood Lenght: 240mm Height at heel: 48.5mm Thickness of Spine at heel: 2.15mm Spine 10mm from tip: 1.2mm Weight" 213 grams Pics
  10. I know very little about stainless steels in general and was wondering what mix of steels would show contrast for stainless Damascus jewelry? It would not have to be harden-able like a blade. I also already have 416 on hand. Thanks John
  11. Scott, you are correct on the reason for the gap. If you are using a friction fit, you need the gap. However you can make it flush if you permanently epoxy the blade in the handle. I have heard the reasoning for the ease of removing the handle is that handles wear out much faster than the blade and are thought of as a consumable. That is true for the the simple ho wood handles but a more durable handle will last a long time too. The blade taking a set is the product of the lamination with non hardening steel, you will not get a spring hardness on the mild side of the blade. I believe this is the reason that many Japanese smiths include cold forging. You can straighten twists and bends before and after heat treat with this method. As I am sure you know, fully hardened mono steel blades are a bear to straighten after heat treat and it usually involves doing it at tempering temps with clamps. I pretty much only make kitchen knives and long, thin tapered mono steel invariably warps in some direction. I have recently begun making damascus out of non hardening steels and using it in a san mai configuration with high carbon steel or high carbon damascus in the middle. I am still working it out but I think the hassle of setting up the san mai is a better trade off then trying (often in vein) to straighten mono steel after heat treat. Time will tell....
  12. I had this problem too as my forge gets can get too hot and melt the steel where the burner enters the forge. I put a thin wash of satinite on the container and it helped considerably.
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