Jump to content

JMJones

Members
  • Content Count

    143
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by JMJones

  1. why was denim a mistake?
  2. I have a 55lb striker hammer (anyang style), with the top die stuck in the up position. I had a stuck die and was hammering out the key and it must have moved a bit and when I turned the hammer on the tup is stuck inside the body of the hammer. Anyone know how to get it back down?
  3. Also Thanks given to Delbert Ealy and the late John White with helping me through this pattern!
  4. Ten bar multi twist Blade Material: - Turkish twist 1084/15n20 Blade length: 240mm Height at Heel: 48mm Spine thickness @ heel: 3.45 Spine thickness 1 cm from tip: 1.4mm Handle: Ironwood and African Blackwood Weight: 260 gm Available Here
  5. Great video's! The blades in question are a mix of soft iron and high carbon steel. When the soft iron is supporting the high carbon steel it will actually bend and take a set when cold forged. This allows the smith to straighten the blade by cold forging. When a fully high carbon blade is struck cold it deforms then returns to its previous shape and does not take a set. I know this does not explain the pre ht cold forging but does explain the benefits of cold forging after ht, especially because the warping that happens when heat treating two different steels in a laminate blade.
  6. I believe I saw one on facebook by Quick and Dirty Tool. Looked simple enough
  7. I have done this and researched it by talking to others who have done it as well. Depending on the edge thickness, a nickel layer may be required to stop carbon migration if the high carbon steel edge will be quite thin. Basically to forge weld the nickel and the stainless have to be in an oxygen free environment. I just mig welded all the edges of the five layer billet after first grinding all of the steel clean and flat. I have had some success and some failure, most of the failure comes when I try to forge on the edge of the billet with a power hammer or press, it delaminates.
  8. I would love a wip. I am about to forge my first stainless damascus to try my hand at ring making.
  9. Specs Blade: 1084/15n20 high carbon steel Handle: Ironwood Burl and African Blackwood Lenght: 240mm Height at heel: 48.5mm Thickness of Spine at heel: 2.15mm Spine 10mm from tip: 1.2mm Weight" 213 grams Pics
  10. I know very little about stainless steels in general and was wondering what mix of steels would show contrast for stainless Damascus jewelry? It would not have to be harden-able like a blade. I also already have 416 on hand. Thanks John
  11. Scott, you are correct on the reason for the gap. If you are using a friction fit, you need the gap. However you can make it flush if you permanently epoxy the blade in the handle. I have heard the reasoning for the ease of removing the handle is that handles wear out much faster than the blade and are thought of as a consumable. That is true for the the simple ho wood handles but a more durable handle will last a long time too. The blade taking a set is the product of the lamination with non hardening steel, you will not get a spring hardness on the mild side of the blade. I believe this
  12. I had this problem too as my forge gets can get too hot and melt the steel where the burner enters the forge. I put a thin wash of satinite on the container and it helped considerably.
  13. Are you thinking of basket weave pattern? Google it and see what you think.
  14. I had great time! The above link is not working for me? John
  15. Just an FYI on these deals. A few years ago I bought a JPH sword on here because I wanted to study a sword from a true master. I don't collect or have need for a sword. I spent my time with the sword and then sold it for several hundred dollars more than I paid for it. I doubt anyone would have trouble doing the same. As an aside, my five year old son was upset when I told him that I sold the sword, as he believed it would be his SOON. He is a ninja turtles fan, and as such I wanted to show him an actual sword, like Leonardo has. After all the teaching of how this was dangerous weapon
  16. I have for sale a Kalamazoo 8 C W metal cutting bandsaw with an 8 inch by 15 inch cutting capacity. The saw cuts great and is currently under power for demonstration before purchase. Saw is three phase and has coolant pump. Included are two blades and about a gallon of coolant concentrate. Saw is in Bangor Maine $1500 I can drive it to a local shipping station but buyer is responsible for all costs from there.
  17. I have tried it with success and failure. The biggest factor that I found is that the steel layers have to be touching while in the forge. On one weld I squeezed too hard on one end that pushed the layers apart on the other end of the billet. I did not immediately forge them back together on purpose and took another welding heat, I could not get the opened layers to fuse. This also happened on a restack that had the top layer bowed enough that I could see daylight between layers, the top layer did not fuse but all the other layers did. Every other weld that had all the steel layers touching,
  18. A-. The video should have been five hours instead of five minutes! Great work
  19. That thing is huge! Not much bigger and you could just pick up the die and drop it like a drop hammer
  20. Looking forward to the video or more pics. How does JD twist? I have personally had some success using a combination of two methods. First I use a bar that is at least a bit longer than my forge, the longer the better. I clamp one end to the shelf on the front of the forge. I put my wrench on the other end and twist hot, I then move more bar into the forge and continue until it is all twisted. Due to varied heat in the forge, the twists are not all at the same rate so Then I use a simple twisting rig held in a vise and use a torch to heat the areas that are not twisted enough an
×
×
  • Create New...