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About NDunham

  • Birthday 01/25/1991

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  1. definitely try it with it off set. one time i tried moving a tang, it got thin by the blade, so you would want to encroach on the blade like michael said. big thing i'd have to say, is definitely go with the sweep. it's real easy to want to have as much blade as possible, and not remove enough to make the blade flow. as a beginner, i'd also say watch out for cold shuts in that tang-blade transition, especially if you have a square-cornered anvil.
  2. i second that. you can turn the web into a hot cut/fuller. sometimes i wont secure the rr rail, so i can turn it on its side to use the bottom web as a fuller.
  3. so the only thing you really forge is the guard? I was wondering if its would be possible to split the guard out with a hot chisel.
  4. what I meant is that if he decides to get mild steel for an anvil, then decides its too soft, It will be simpler to hardface it than hardfacing cast iron. Although I just learned about welding cast iron with standard ER70S-6 wire, which could be hardfaced.
  5. if you ever decide that mild steel is too soft, its nicer to weld on that cast iron or tool steel (cheaper too)
  6. OK... I haven't made a sax either. from what I've read, kukris don't have much distal taper, except at the very tip. based on that, and blade width, i am supposing that for an authentic shape, one would need to either upset the end, or draw out the narrow part. I was wondering what people do. Regarding the teapot, I believe he is referring to the quench. I don't think that kukris are usually tempered separately form the quench. However, it does seem to be common to refer to differential heat-treating as tempering.
  7. you'll really have to draw it out like crazy. I don't know if the head would work out right. One thing that might be nice is to put a little flare by the butt too. but it does look nice
  8. Very nice makes me want the rain to stop so i can play with patterning besides fixing the anvil... or build a press maybe...
  9. I sure hope they're shock-resistant
  10. I know this is an old thread, but... what kind of Jet-Dry? Thanks
  11. Ooops... mistake. please please please don't use meter-in flow control... use meter out so you don't have a runaway piston. basically, put the flow control valve in the line on the bottom. also, you'll want a check valve to bypass the FCV for raising the piston. these are built into some FCVs... you could get one that has it if you use a FCV. also, there is only one reservoir. It's just drawn with multiple reservoirs in diagrams and regarding solenoid valves, there fine unless you stall them out/have them on a long time. the solenoid can burn up, especially if your valve won't move
  12. You'll want a 4-way, 3-position, tandem center directional control valve. You for sure want a pressure relief valve, take a Tee off the pressure line from pump (before directional control valve), then dump to tank from there. I would advise using a counterbalance valve to hold it up. It will have a remote pressure sensing line which you hook up to the line to press down, the valve goes in the line from the bottom of the cylinder. of course, you need a check valve to bypass it when you're pumping it up. I can add some schematics if you need. edit: if you want to control speed, if you have
  13. to get the curves without forging special chisel, you could grind a punch or nail set.
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