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Everything posted by Avadon

  1. what exactly is the point of wood stabilizing? Is that to drive gasses out? Prevent cracking? All of the above?
  2. I'm a devout too.. going the other way I think your spec on in saying that there is something very transcendental about the blade, or even simpler, the forged weapon. Think of how long it took evolution on earth to come to the point of a man wielding fire to form metal. It really is awe-inspiring. I look at bladesmithing and armour as a way to express archetypes. Whether they are righteous or villainous it makes no difference, they are both profoundly held as sacred in the eye of the beholder. In essence, metal may be one of the greatest art mediums mankind has ever worked in.
  3. Really!? I thought those ball vices were just a few hundred tops. Those cam type vices I know run up into the thousands like 1500-2500$. Are they really the same in price? Which is better? I've never used either.
  4. I apologize if I was inferring that was my vice. No, that was just a picture I found off the internet when I was curious about how that vice/bowl concept worked. Prior to this thread I was not familiar with this type of vice in the above picture. The only vice I was previously familiar with was this type (which I think are cams?). And I know these can be pricy
  5. I had to stare at that for a bit before I realized it was this.. I'm used to seeing those rotary engraving vices that operate in mult-axis. There like a few grand. I presumed that was essentially all there was. Avadon is my name. I'm routinely on iforgeiron and other metalworking sites. Its fairly easy to find me. I gotta get a link on here to my public myspace. That's where I have all my forging pics and where I document my work. Cheers av
  6. Is there any rendering technique to get more of those turpines out of it so that it is better for glue? Do you boil it longer to evaporate the water and turpentine? This stuff is far from syrup. It's more like various degrees of drying chewing gum. Some a little chewy and other bits really dense and still other bits seem solid and brittle.
  7. I'm also very interested in engraving. Can you show me with a picture or somehow describe this more in detail so I can get what your talking about?
  8. Thanks everyone. Actually Patrick is steering much to what I was wondering about. Really cool site. I bookmarked it and I think I'll probably render the bulk of it, after some initial experimentation, into the resin like on your site. Thanks for posting.
  9. Good discussion. I snapped off a picture of my lot. Some of this stuff is really hard. It might be to hard for any heat to melt down. I may remove those pieces and just burn them up in my coal forge or grind them down to dust and do something with them. The vast bulk of it though is gooey. I would say mildly dry chewing gun hardness. You have to pry it off and it's quite thick. It's not easy to find a large amount of sap, even though you'd think it would be. A lot of people go on their own property and give a pine a several wacks with an axe and then pin up a bucket to catch the leaking sap. This damages the tree and looks awfully ugly. It takes a long time for the tree to scar over that and if you do this make sure you do it on a property where no one's gonna care if you do collection like this. I have a special place where I can just collect it off the tree without injuring the tree at all. The tree's are heavily watered too so there is more sap. Hopefully there is enough here to at least make 2 or 3 pints after it's filtered and pure pine sap. They feel like they appear. Big gooey clods of sap. Almost like honeycomb but a little firmer. If you get much of this on your hands you'll have an excellent grip on anything you touch. apparently pitch was also used in incendiary devices in the medieval age, and not just for torches and standard fuel. It was combined with sulphur. Apparently it was also used on war clubs and maces to hold spikes into wood, wrap handles and perhaps even to protect the wood itself. From what I can tell, the sky is really the limit with this stuff. Sorta like woodglue, it's got a million uses, and depending on how it's mixed it can be many things. I'm sure I'll come up with some cool uses. At the very least I can make some really cool medieval looking torches for my ren friends and perhaps try it out on some handles, wraps, and fastening points to see how well it sets metal and wood together. The thing I like best is that it's totally authentic. It's not like i'm using JB weld or something. Just in case anyone's reading this and wants to try it. There are a lot of good sites on the internet showing how to process sap into pitch. One uses a double boiler method (sorta like for melting choclate) with the can of sap inside a larger pot that has water in it. This way your not overheating the sap and risking a flash fire. Apparently if you catch this stuff on fire you can get a good 6' flame rising out of it. So working small bits at a time and filtering it is recommended. Do this over an outside forge, bbq, or grill. NOT in the house. The smell of the sap is fairly strong as is, even a small clump you can probably hint at when coming into a room. The bag is so strong I have it outside. When heated it can be even stronger. So best done entirely outside. You don't want your house to smell like a toxic pine forest for the next decade. lol Pine sap contains turpentine, a natural solvent, which can cause irritation to the skin, eyes, or mucous membranes. So use disposable latex gloves when working volumes of it. I do.
  10. I've got a about a grocery bag full. So a pretty heft amount. When I melt it down i'm sure it will be less. Can I make my own pitch for repousse? Maybe that would be a good use? I've seen pitch used on a lot of naval items.. oars, ropes, decking, etc. and on some clubs. Definitely gives it that evil black medieval look. Back then it probably was the equivalent in use as a modern dip in epoxy resin. Oh and it can also be used (depending on it's mixture) as the tips of torches to give a long burning time, or even dripped onto torches to add fuel/burn time. But as for specific weapon making techniques, i'm sorta at a loss.
  11. Can you also coat woods with it? to seal them? Or would that look weird? What about using it to wrap leather or cloth on handles or such.
  12. What cool uses can you set pine sap, or pine sap rendered into pine pitch, to in regards to knife making or general weapon making? Does the medium work well to wrap handles or coat woods or do for other things?
  13. Sweet.. I already have 2 different 220V 30 amp so I can just put the thing on a cord and unplug one device and plug another. Kind of a pain, but i'm moving in a year, and don't want to hardwire another 220v line. Will definitely keep a vigilant mind on the quietness of the machine. In the video it does run incredibly silent. Thanks for the tips.
  14. How many amps do their motors take, is it 30amp?
  15. Thank you for that good breakdown Alan, appreciate it. I want to evolve to whatever people consider or value as more worthy. I would imagine even the most impressive dremel/rotary work on a blade or other item would ever be worth all that much. For some effects like that "wormy wood" sure, but for doing all that super fine detail I'm thinking it's airgraver or bust.
  16. When you go to the mall and get engraving done there, don't they use a rotary tool? Or is that some cnc thing?
  17. Those are definitely beautiful, but i'm still curious about my question. I don't want to do it just a non-mechanical way to prove it can be done, or because that's "authentic", whatever that means.
  18. What advantages do airgravers have over using dremel's or freedom rotary grinders (rotary electric) or even pnuematic engravers/grinders? I've done stuff like this with a dremel Curious when rotary/electric tools used for engraving are better then airgravers and when airgravers are better then rotary/electric tools..??
  19. Were gems ever used much (historically speaking) on blades or weapons? I know on scepters, crowns, and religious items i've seen em.
  20. Also thank you all for the links, I bookmarked each one.
  21. That built up charge doesn't dissipate through the ground of the 220V line? What if I added a thick ground strap from the base of the KMG plate down to the 220V outlet box or to a similar grounded box? Wouldn't that take it out. I actually live in a fairly humid place though, right near the ocean. Is that worse or better? lol
  22. Okay thanks i'll try them out.. Any special safety concerns or things I should know about when operating the KMG? (that aren't obvious)
  23. Thanks Bruce, Yes I was looking at that too when I saw in the accessories the 1/2 Plate for the grinder. Dissapointing it's not included but I guess some people want to install it onto a table. To me though I'd rather have the plate and have everything align perfectly via an already drilled pattern. I can definitely see how an assortment of those small wheels would come in very handy. Where does one get all the sandpaper for sanders like this?
  24. Thank you all for the informative replies. Yah I think now after hearing your recommends I'll go with the 3HP. It's not that much more money to get from the 1.5 to the 3HP and would be much more expensive to do later. There are lots of places I try to cut money/spending in my shop but in staple machinery that I use everyday, this would not be the place. Yah I was thinking about definitely getting that tooling rest. For $85 it's just better to get it from them then try to fabricate one myself. Thank you for telling me about that Rotary Platen. I just looked on their site and found it. Not cheap at 480$ or so but worth it. For what I want to do, I could see that coming in extremely handy! Mostly I want to make medieval/fantasy weapons like Tridents, warhammers, poleaxes, forks, etc.. so I could see where having a more powerful belt grinder for stock removal could be important. Thanks for the heads up everyone.
  25. So i've finally saved up enough money to get a KMG Industrial Belt Grinder. I've got a decent bench grinder, air tools, anvil, Chili Forge Cayenne Forge, Industrial Bandsaw, hand tools, etc. So really the only thing missing is the ability to sand things easily. Up until now I've been sanding a lot of things with a right angle pnumetiac air gun with roloc discs. It works pretty well but it's not aggressive. It's only for minor cleanup. So i'm ready for a KMG. Question is what are the best/reccomended attachments. I'm gonna get the 10" model with the variable speed motor. But i'm curious if going up to the 2-3HP motor is worth it. Or should I stick with the 1.5HP and 110V? Anyone have this machine and can give me some good tips? Thanks
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