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Isaiah Lake

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Posts posted by Isaiah Lake

  1. I might go with something like fighters and users as two main categories and then go into

    swords / EDC

    daggers / kitchen

    axes / machetes

    spear / axes

    then go into sub categories of those like Chinese,Greek,Roman,etc. or something along those lines would be nice.

  2. That or just insufficient heat treating.I have not had much practice or any guidance heat treating. I have just observed. I am now reading the 50 dollar knife shop which Mathew (MJD)just received for his birthday and Wayne Goddard does a good job of explaining the heat treat.

  3. No pictures of the burn.Finally got the retort better insulated and it collapsed :angry: .We got the best yield yet though so we were doing something right :).Time for a new barrel.Picture are here 043.jpg pieces that didn't char completely Picture are here 041.jpg Sorry I could not get the picture of the retort re sized ;I will try later.

  4. Ed Caffrey does a good job explaining the brass rod test here.

     

    I use canola oil for most of my quenching, I have used other oils. Sometimes one can find a good thin mineral oil at farm supply outlets that works really well. My problem with used motor oil is the toxic fumes produced by quenching red hot steel in it more than anything. Canola and peanut oils make it smell like I'm baking cookies when I heat-treat... Next knife I sale will have the proceeds go towards purchasing some Parks #50, a fast commercial quenching oil that comes highly suggested by some people who should know.

     

    It is very important to heat the oil, 120f or hotter than would be comfortable for bath water is my general rule... I simply insert a glowing red bar of scrap and stir, then test with a finger-tip, but there are more scientific methods. Another thing that helps is agitation. The simplest way to agitate is to move the blade in the oil forwards and back, NOT side to side (that's just asking for warps). My latest experiments in agitation involve an electric tooth-brush strapped to the side of the quench tank, it sets up vibrations in the oil that seem to help (I blame Tai for giving me that idea). A circulating pump would be the best way to go with it, I think.

     

    I cannot find the post now, but someone posted a chart showing quench speeds of various liquids. What was really interesting is that pure, distilled water is much, much slower than water with impurities, or brine. I've never had luck with water quenches, every blade i've quenched in water pinged, but that was well water which tends to be on the hard side...

  5. I quenched in brine once and it didn't crack but my heat treating was off so it was brittle and the tang broke off. Would just motor oil be best for the quench? I have not heard of the brass rod test; It sounds pretty self explanatory but will you please explain?

  6. Cool knife, all the cable I have gotten has had those plastic centers. <_< I upgraded on thursday from an angle grinder to a 1x30 from central machinery, so I know the feeling. ;)

    I think I know how we can work around that rope in the center. B)

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