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  1. I made this edc some time back with the thought of having a strong and wide blade to tang transition.
  2. That is a beautiful knife Joshua. Making a frame handle has been on my to do list for a long time.
  3. Unfortunately I don't have access to a temperature controlled oven now. A good long soak in warm soap water followed by brushing with scotch brite wheel on an angle grinder should get rid of all the oil.
  4. Do I call this a good heat treat? Blew off pretty much all of the scale on the edge after rubbing it with a scotch brite pad. Tested with a file and the file skates off without biting at all. On to the tempering light straw/ dark straw at the edge?
  5. Sure Alan. Will take that advice and quench in vegetable oil instead. As it is I have already forged the edge almost to final thickness. I have seen several khukri making videos in which the kami carefully pours a stream of hot water on the edge to harden but I guess they have perfected the method by years of practice . So oil is the way to go for me
  6. Made a slight change and straightened the tang . Basically moved the hump in the tang a bit more closer to the blade than before. Also widened the blade portion a little. Will be doing an edge quench in water
  7. Nice simple clean blades. About the copper guard on the first one is that made out of a solid copper piece or a pipe? I would like to make a guard like that some day for one of my knives.
  8. Even I am not sure if I should call it "pocket parang" What I am looking to make is something similar to Greber pack axe in weight and size but shaped like a parang . Normally I haven't seen a parang less than 7 inches long blade. Basically a small size tool but with more chopping power than a normal 3.5 inch blade bushcraft or edc knife. Let's see how it goes
  9. And drawing out the tang is completed. Now to make the profile a bit less curvy...... or not ....
  10. Hi Folks, Working on a very small version of a parang made from a piece of truck leaf spring. I am thinking of a 3.5 inch cutting edge and a long ricasso which I am thinking will give good forward weight to such a small blade . Aiming for OAL of 9 inches. Need advice about how to shape the tang give it a good downward curve or keep it straight at an angle where the ricasso ends at the handle. Also looking for suggestions about overall design. I am thinking a peened wooden handle should be nice . Right now it is at 8 inches OAL and will be drawing out the tang a little mo
  11. There is something about your style Jake. You make the simplest knives look beautiful. Have always been an admirer of your work.
  12. Thank you for the clarity Alan . Adding this to my someday to-do list
  13. Right Alan. I thought so also that this is definitely not soldered. So got my brain in a tizzy how this is done. I love the look of that crossbar . I am not sure the knife has a crossbar on the bottom part of the bolster also but that seems unlikely. I cannot find an image of the bottom of the bolster. Would a staple or blind rivet be strong enough?
  14. Hi Folks, I was looking at some of the knives made by the legendary Bob Loveless and came across a feature on one of his stiff horn pattern knife. Image copied from Knives Illustrated It is called a crossbar on the bolsters and I am wondering how this is constructed?
  15. Nice work Alex.This is going to be one beauty of a dagger. Can't wait to see the finished piece.
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