parsha

Finally got to making all the components of the knife. Now a final round of individual cleanup, finishing followed by fitting everything together

I think the construction looks historical enough. I suggest rosewood for the hilt and instead of the two strips of silver on the front guard use a wide silver band with some embossed motifs.

Made some progress on the blade for the second knife. Blade has been forged close to shape and the shoulders filed.I thought of making the front area of the handle a little more well defined by adding a guard. A rough sketch of what the knife should look like. Now let's see how close I can get to the sketch. Found a nice piece of rosewood lying around which will be used for the front scales and at the end of the handle.

Thank you Pieter

Thank you Cason and Rob. Actually I wanted to keep the length for this knife around 7 inches overall. It fits my hand smugly . I agree though that for someone with bigger hands it might be a little small. For the next one I am plan to keep the blade width at 1 inch which might make the dimensional proportions better.

Thanks a lot Alan. Ya even I thought I had never seen a knife with a handle made like this and it would be unique...so I went ahead and gave it a try. If you like the look of it then it has worked out well I am working on another one in the same style.This time around I will use a quarter inch diameter brass pipe which will be flattened and shaped to make the collar.

A small edc/bushcrafter from old file steel. Overall knife size is 7.25 inches. 3.25 inch blade and 4 inch handle. Edge quenched in water. I had this different handle style in mind for a while and finally got around to making it.It has a full tang upto the brass disc on the handle.The front part of the tang is covered by a brass shim collar and has teak wood scales fixed by pins .The remaining part of the tang goes through the wood and is peened over a brass endcap.

Thanks Brian and Alan. Time to head out and find some round stock high carbon.

I am hoping to give this a try . I understand that stainless San mai is not very easy to pull off like you said Will. What high carbon steel will be best suited for this? By that I mean is there any high carbon which sticks better to stainless. I was thinking of a 52100 core rod.

Right Joel I was thinking along those lines. Some flux will also need to be added before welding the ends shut? Thanks for the tip about the mill scale on the inside of the tube Brian and yes it will be difficult to clean that. Maybe I can use a round file to clean the inside or will have to fashion some sort of long shaft for the dremel and use a sanding drum.

Hi Folks, I came across some leftover stainless steel tubing. 304 or 316 can't say for sure. It's pretty thick walled almost 5 mm. The outer diameter of the tube is 1 inch and lengths vary from 4 to 6 inches. I am thinking will it be possible to insert a high carbon core rod which fits tightly in the tubing, flatten the heck out of it in the forge and then cut it all the way in the center of the flattened billet to get 2 flat billets to turn into knives. Just a thought, dunno if it is doable??? My current setup is highly inadequate so I can't try this at the moment.

WOW!! ...I dont remember how many hours I have spent trying to find out the construction of these type of knives and here it is.Brian please keep updating as you build along.

Hi guys.The hardening went well. Started to clean up the blade and would like to kow how to polish the blade to see if there is any hamon A shot of the blade with the guard

Woo hoo!!! Managed to do this at the third attempt.thin layers is the trick...I know I know...you guys already told me so

Added some ash to the mix though i am not sure if it is hardwood ash and adjusted the proportion of clay. While applying the clay I put 3 thin alternating layers on each side of the blade.Keeping my fingers crossed. Will update results soon.

Will take your advise and redo the clay coat Connor. The clay mask composition I am using is courtesy of Dave Friesen. 1:1:1 proportions of clay,fine ground sand and charcoal power with some iron powder.This time I will increase the quantity of clay a little which might prevent cracking after drying. Are there any more factors which will reduce cracks?

I did the clay coat on the blade but some of the clay towards the handle end did not hold and fell off. The clay has developed small cracks after drying.pressed down hard with my hands but it won't fall off. Will it be ok to proceed to quench at this stage? Or remove and redo the clay coat?

Filing bevels on both sides almost done.now to drill pin holes and will be doing a clay coat quench in oil after this.

Thanks for the appreciation BCROB. Unfortunately I have not taken any progress pictures while making the guard. If this works out well I will make a WIP for the guard. It's pretty simple actually, considering the work showcased by some makers here... CHEERS !!

Spot on MacKinnon!! It's made from 1mm thick angle iron. I had thought a long time of making a guard like this but couldn't find any tutorial to do it or examples of such guards.So I gave it a try. Kevin I am planning to do a ridge grind but the top edge will not be up to the guard as the blade length is just 4 inches Next step will be to file bevels and drill holes for pinning the guard.

Making a small persian style knife. I had a somewhat brilliant idea for the guard and leave it to you guys to figure out how I have done it

Nice work Robert.especially liked the shape of the axe head.I have saved the image for future reference (read imitation)

Beautiful knives Peto. I am waiting for a detailed WIP from you about how you make these .

Looks like a nice stout camp knife. Love your work.you keep things simple no extra furniture but the knives still look elegant.nice work.

Truly inspirational work Petr.simply splendid.Love those copper ferrules and end caps