Jump to content

Dan Scott

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

1 Follower

About Dan Scott

  • Birthday 10/03/1993

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Fort Collins, CO
  • Interests
    Rock Climbing

Recent Profile Visitors

1,013 profile views
  1. Hi Everyone, I haven't posted in a good long while due to my current lack of a shop (I should be opening up a shop with someone soon, can't wait!). Anyway, a friend of mine found an old knife while out doing field work and we'd like to see if anyone here has some more information on it. From the stamps we have found, we know it's a John Newton and Co knife. It looks to me like the handle is jigged bone, attached to the tang by cutler's resin, although it doesn't look quite like the color of cutler's resin that I've made, so I'm not sure on that. We've found some history on John Newton
  2. As for american woods, I prefer vine maple. To date I have not found a superior wood in terms of chattoyance or maintaining its form. It's durable, does not dirty easily considering the shine it can take, and will dry very fast, even in the Northwest. I've taken a piece green and make a handle of it in less than 4 months, with no cracking to this day (2 years of regular kitchen service). I also value it for the strength of the tree, and the beautiful forms it takes in the places it grows. I think there are similar variants across the US, but I don't know their names. For exotic woods, I re
  3. That is incredible workmanship and a beautiful finished product. Thanks so much for detailing how you accomplished such a feat! -Dan
  4. That must be how the Elves reforged Anduril! I always wondered about that. -Dan
  5. I made a really big knife with a farrier's rasp a while back. I never put too much work into the handle because it was just too big and heavy to be useful, but it was a fun piece. I forged it and you can tell that the teeth have been crushed where I didn't grind them away. I also like having different textures on each side of the blade. Oh, and the steel is pretty fun to forge too, and holds a great edge. Look forward to seeing what you come up with! -Dan
  6. Hey, thanks guys! I agree, the handle could be more comfortable, but as was mentioned, I only use it for maybe 15 minutes at a time, half an hour a day tops. To prevent sharp edges, I ran the entire handle under a wire brush wheel for about 5 minutes, so it's very smooth. I think if I wanted more comfort, I could have done a socket handle, but I decided to let myself go more towards form on this one than I usually do. Chris, I'm doing an MS/PhD program in geology at Colorado State University, in Fort Collins. Just starting my second semester in 2 weeks! Cheers, Dan
  7. I visited home for the holidays, and, as one of my Christmas gifts, my dad let me set up my forge and bang away at steel for a while. Make a few small trinkets, but this one is most special. I didn't have access to a shop (apparently I leave a mess when I work, go figure) so couldn't do anything with wood. I decided to do an all steel handle. This one took me a day, after a few hours the day before getting my hammer control back (5 months off had an impact). All 1080 steel, about 10 inches overall, with a boiled vinegar patina that I like on my kitchen knives. Really, I was very happy to b
  8. That is a beautiful axe! I really love the lines. -Dan
  9. It's hard to tell from the pictures, but if you left the scale on, you should be able to just apply a light finish (brass wire brush is what I usually use when I don't want to remove the scale, just get rid of the loose flakes, though that'd be a lot of brushing) and wax it or something. As for rusting fast, you could try spritzing on vinegar (or pour on boiling vinegar, or dunk it in a giant vat of boiling vinegar if you happen to have one of those lying around). Because of the scale of the piece, you could also try thickening mustard (maybe just mix it with a bit of flour, not sure) and spre
  10. I agree with Geoff. I hadn't ever met another smith until I visited his shop one day, and just getting the input of someone who was by far and away more skilled than I really allowed me to break through a few barriers that I feel were holding me back (and he's pretty clever with forge-building, so it really helped to see a blown forge in action before building my first). My first dozen (20? 30? no idea) knives were all chocked up to learning experiences (though a few turned out ok, and I'm proud of every one). However, I can say now that I haven't had the opportunity to smith in a few months (
  11. If they've got an "HC" mark on the head, they should harden at least slightly. I've made some knives out of the HC ones and they're not horrible.A lot of people like them just for the art value of having a knife that resembles a railroad spike. You can also do a lot of cool things with the handle. Nothing like a higher carbon steel (they lose a sharp edge very very fast) but they are very easy to make tough. I think that the C content of the HC ones is just perfect for making things like throwing hawks (especially those just for practice/fun) as you're probably going to abuse the edge anyway,
  12. I agree with Sam. It took me years to define my style and let a name come to me. I think I tried to think of a name before then, and I'd be very unhappy with all of them if I had gone with any of them. The one that I use now came to me when I was thinking more about what defined my blades, and less about what I'd like to be known as. My maker's mark (I assume that's what you mean by logo?) came later and only after I had made a few blades with my identity in mind. I think naming your forge is a huge step that should be taken very seriously. I'm currently taking a break from bladesmithing (unwi
  13. I'm in a bit of a bind and I'm seeking opinions on what I can do to mitigate my problems. Specifically, I'm moving to Ft. Collins, CO to attend graduate school for the next five years. I'm moving into an apartment without the back yard and shop that I've set up in my house out in the boonies here in Washington. I'd like to keep doing some facet of blade work while I'm there, as it's become a large part of my life and it'd be very hard for me to just quit cold turkey for the next 5 or more years. I'll still have all my tools if I need them, as well as a good supply of steel, though my f
  14. Word of mouth. Nothing has been more successful for me. I think building up a base of people who use your knives is important. It might pay off to be very strategic in giving your knives (make sure they're all excellent examples of your work, as every knife should be) . Give them to people who use them in public situations, or who you know will display them publicly (such as in an office), or who will show them off to others. For example, I gave a knife (not with the purpose of getting sales) to one of my professors, a geologist, who uses his knife regularly and was very curious about the proc
  15. Great finds! I'd love to see how pacific yew holds up in a knife handle. What are the other two though? Also, if you haven't tried it, vine maple (or douglas maple), is another local wood that makes absolutely awesome handle material. It's extremely durable and can take a very high polish. It also forms burl between branches quite often, so if that's what you're into, it's not too hard to find. -Dan
  • Create New...