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AJ Chalifoux

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    Swords, Knives, Polearms, Daggers, Western Martial Arts, Over-Engineering Stuff...

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  1. Those are really, really nice. They're a great mixture of rugged and clean. I've never had the urge to make a folding knife until now. Well done!
  2. Oh that is just incredible and I love it. Great job!
  3. Well, I read that in his voice...
  4. Does she want the cross obvious, or can it be hidden? I've done holy symbols on the tangs of swords so the only people that will ever know it's there are me, the customer, and whoever finds the sword in 200 years after the grip has fallen apart. Some like that idea, some don't. If obvious is the answer, an etched cross in a fuller is kind of a nice look. The dagger sounds like a good idea too, especially with brass bolsters/guard to really bring out the green. There's a great catalogue online of all the daggers in the Metropolitan Muesum of Art, which shows a crazy amount of variation.
  5. A folding utility knife has been my go-to for 5 or 6 years. Then again, my day job is making utility blades, so that tends to lend itself well toward keeping one on me all the time.
  6. Thank you! It was a very different sword than what I'm used to, but I was happy with the end result. It is definitely fast and changed direction with little effort.
  7. This sword is loosely based off an example in the Moesgaard Museum. I made the distal taper drastic in the first 2/5 of the blade, evened it out in the second 2/5, before finally tapering again in the last 1/5 (though the tip does have a very slight swell that I intentionally kept to get a bit more mass out there). The result is a sword that feels incredibly mobile in the hand, yet still has blade presence during the cut. The pommel is hollow to keep it light while increasing the visual "weight." The original inspiration was fragmentary, but based on proportions it seems likely that the blade was originally a slender Geibig Type 4, so this one was made to have a similar slender blade shape as could be seen in other 9th-10th century blades. The blade is 1075 tempered to 50-53 HRC, the hilt components are medium-carbon steel, and the grip is a combination of wenge and purpleheart. Hopefully you all like it! Stats: Overall Length: 37.0625" Blade Length: 30.0625" Blade Width at Base: 1.625" Blade Width at Point: .827" Grip Length: 4.342" Pommel Length: 2.244" Weight: 2lb 7.6oz POB: 2.75" COP: 20" from guard Thickness at base: .189" (.480cm) Thickness at COP: .093" (.235cm) Thickness at tip: .094" (.240cm)
  8. Making some more progress on a viking sword. Last night I finished getting the fullers shaped with stones and refined the bevels with stones and files. It always surprises me how 50-53HRC blades can be filed (albeit with a bit more moxy).
  9. Kirkland beer is surprisingly okay, and the vodka too if memory serves. The scotch...let's just say the only time I've had it, I thought someone poured me a glass of rum.
  10. There's a max HP rating for VFDs. This will correlate to a max amperage rating at 230V, but as long as it's rated for that input voltage and HP, it should be fine. Remember, P = V * I (and then convert from Watts to HP) All that being said, the grinder motor determines power. Doubling the input voltage halves the current draw, but won't change anything else.
  11. Finished a small hunter, a small scramseax, and mostly forged out a short Messer in the vein of Pieter Bruegel's paintings. Normally I wouldn't forge in weather like what we've been having, but I volunteered to do demos at a summer festival
  12. Got two dirks and one dagger forged, straightened, normalized, and ready for heat treat tomorrow.
  13. True. There are larger ones that look more stable, but with more expense and having to adapt bits to work, at what point is it not worth it anymore?
  14. Has anyone ever tried using one of these for the same purpose? I was going to build one, but if this works, why not? I suppose there's no centering features built in, but that seems easy to add with a few tapped holes and angle iron. https://www.amazon.com/Taytools-468334-Router-Ductile-Hardness/dp/B07GW7X35P/ref=asc_df_B07GW7X35P/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309763890402&hvpos=1o4&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4012042591667662875&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9003322&hvtargid=pla-569147430190&psc=1
  15. For something that size, you may not necessarily need one, depending on distal taper (if there is any). If you feel it needs one, Dave's (and Peter's) information is fantastic. A good trick is to get some modeling clay and a kitchen scale. Mark out on the tang where the top and bottom of the pommel will sit and build up the modeling clay between those two points to mock up a tang. Remember to stay within the lines you set for yourself, as moving mass further up or down the tang will change things drastically. Play with a bunch of different weights until it has the dynamics you're looking for, then weigh the clay. You now know the weight you want for the pommel.
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