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AJ Chalifoux

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    Swords, Knives, Polearms, Daggers, Western Martial Arts, Over-Engineering Stuff...

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  1. Straightened a small Messer (top) and got a second one (bottom) almost done forging. I may tweak the bottom one a bit before heat treating, but we'll see. They're part of an experiment I want to try concerning short Messers/Hauswehr carried by peasants as can be seen in various medieval paintings.
  2. Those look great! Based on the thickness at the base, I'd bet they're pretty light too.
  3. Looking good. I also agree that the bend-and-file fullering method you show looks brilliant.
  4. That's also one of my favorites. I just know of it as Moesgaard Viking sword. There's not too much information available, but based on the hilt design and narrowness of the blade, it's probably a later piece (10th century maybe?) https://www.kulturarv.dk/mussam/VisGenstand.action?genstandId=6416382
  5. I can't remember off the top of my head how shear looks in cantilevered beams (I went into engineering for manufacturing, not structural dagnabbit), but technically a large enough guard should serve as an anchor and create a node there. Reasoning through it, I suppose it would put a lot of shear at that spot. I would think, though, that the looseness of the guard will only matter when it's so loose that it's just rattling around anyway. Then again, nodes could be anywhere on the handle depending on the type of sword, so while the guard will have an effect, the node will not necessarily be there and it should behave just like any other spot on the sword under vibration. Al, to add to your post, many guards were fitted so loose that they shimmed them to get a tight fit to the tang. I've seen wood, copper, steel, etc. shims used for exactly this reason.
  6. Peter Johnsson designs anything made by Albion, so they tend to be good references as far as reproductions go. Other than that, surf around on MyArmoury to get good examples of period examples. Generally speaking, an earlier long/great sword like this will have a simpler, straight guard and some variety of wheel pommel. If I were you, I'd see if bronze or brass pommels were common for this type (can't remember off the top of my head), since they're easier to shape and look great. The grip will generally be of wood wrapped in cord and then leather wrapped around that.
  7. Got the big billet of crushed Ws I'm working on cut, restacked, and first-pass welded on Sunday, and today I got it mostly drawn out. I had to fight it for a while to make the cross section look like a rectangle rather than a parallelogram, but I think it's all set now. It's a lot of work just to lift this thing up.
  8. That's a good idea. If he polishes the face he could also use it as a leatherworking anvil.
  9. How good are you with drilling and tapping? The only use I can see you getting out of it is if you made up dovetails that bolt on, then basically make a large power hammer die to serve as an all-metal stump anvil. Personally, I'd just give it to a machine shop.
  10. Finally finished drawing out this billet. It's at 1x1.5x33" after I cut the ends off (started as 1.5x3x12). Now I need to cut, stack, re-weld, and draw it out all over again for crushed Ws.
  11. 90+% of machine tools, from mills to lathes to drill presses, use standardized tooling tapers. It sounds like the shaft could be just a bit too beaten up, or else the angle is off which will keep it from getting a firm hold. Neither the bearings nor the tool (chuck) holders on drill presses are designed to handle radial loads like in milling, so it may never sit right for that. You may be able to press it more firmly into the female end by drilling big holes using a lot of pressure. Otherwise, measure it up, see what you've got, and maybe get another tool holder or see if there are variations that enable a draw bar. Edited to add: using a drill as a lathe will eventually damage the bearings. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Machine_taper
  12. Looks good so far! Are you going to polish the guard? A quick note on torch tempering: like many I've found it to be inaccurate, but you can improve the accuracy considerably by getting a multimeter and a surface probe thermocouple to check the temperature on both sides of the blade as you go.
  13. Spent a chunk of yesterday and this morning making a set of dies for the hydraulic press. I tested it out quick on a piece of scrap and it seems like the cylinder will do the trick, but it's admittedly slow so I'll eventually need to change it out. I've only got 4" of clearance as it is, so I'd like to get a shorter cylinder eventually anyway. I never realized how much heat those press dies can suck out of the steel.
  14. Very nice looking bunch of knives. I have to admit I've never seen a tang like the bottom one. Is that a common style? How do you mount a handle on it, if at all? Very cool
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