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AJ Chalifoux

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Everything posted by AJ Chalifoux

  1. Do you mean something like this? https://www.mcmaster.com/4406T29/ If not, you can look up "air hose fittings" on McMaster, MSC, Grainger, etc.
  2. I've needed a good fire poker for years, and today I finally decided to hunker down and make one after I learned the in-laws would be over for dinner and a fire tonight. I didn't have round stock, so I used two pieces of 1-1/4"x7/16" rectangle scrap that I scarf welded together and forged round.
  3. Finally got a mosaic bar forged out (well, except the tang). I'll finish cleaning it up tomorrow and checking for cracks & weld flaws, but for now I ground one side and quickly etched a small section to see what I have. Currently 3/4" x 7/16" x 27", but it should be about 36" long when the tang is forged out. Barring any weld flaws, I'll be starting on the edge bars tomorrow or Saturday. The edges will be low-layer random pattern and this bar will be the core.
  4. Looking great! You're forging out the distal taper, right? I see what you mean by the areas of concern...unfortunately, I'm not versed enough in multibar blades to offer much help.
  5. Got a little more done on a big (hopefully soon-to-be) mosaic billet today. Forged out the second stack-up of crushed Ws and just started forging on the bias before I had to call it quits. I didn't like the look of a split in the end, so once it cooled off, I cut the last 1/4" off to make sure the weld took. Luckily, it's all good and solid! I also did a quick etch to see how it turned out, and so far, so good.
  6. They all look great, but that third one is dynamite to me. Good job!
  7. I forgot to comment on this when you first posted it. I'm normally not big into axes, but that just looks so clean and well-done! Great job.
  8. I believe you're thinking of Bauernwehr and Hauswehr Doug pretty much hit the nail on the head. Messers were sword-length "knives" with crossguards, usually (but not always) sporting a Nagel. That looks like a great start! I'm excited to see where it goes.
  9. That's really nice and clean!
  10. Honestly I just use 8" stove pipe with a cap at the bottom that I caulked the bejeezus out of when I was a teenager. A 48" section holds 5 gallons.
  11. Though not common, Messers very much like this certainly existed (even without Nagels or side rings). Great work! It looks and sounds like a beautiful hand-and-a-half sword.
  12. Picked up two truckloads of manure yesterday to fill our garden (finally). We built the frame last year; 16 x 16 raised bed, but by the time it was done it was too late to plant much and we didn't have the fill yet. We still need another 3.5-4 cubic yards, but that'll be next weekend. Today we plan on planting our four new fruit trees. Overall, not a bad way to spend our spare time.
  13. This is fantastic. Really nicely done!
  14. Yesterday I ground the profile on the more curved small Messer I'm working on, and immediately said nope, too much curve. So today I straightened it out some and also bent the tang downward a little more. It looks and feels much better now, though I'll need to touch up the profile again after forging.
  15. Straightened a small Messer (top) and got a second one (bottom) almost done forging. I may tweak the bottom one a bit before heat treating, but we'll see. They're part of an experiment I want to try concerning short Messers/Hauswehr carried by peasants as can be seen in various medieval paintings.
  16. Those look great! Based on the thickness at the base, I'd bet they're pretty light too.
  17. Looking good. I also agree that the bend-and-file fullering method you show looks brilliant.
  18. That's also one of my favorites. I just know of it as Moesgaard Viking sword. There's not too much information available, but based on the hilt design and narrowness of the blade, it's probably a later piece (10th century maybe?) https://www.kulturarv.dk/mussam/VisGenstand.action?genstandId=6416382
  19. I can't remember off the top of my head how shear looks in cantilevered beams (I went into engineering for manufacturing, not structural dagnabbit), but technically a large enough guard should serve as an anchor and create a node there. Reasoning through it, I suppose it would put a lot of shear at that spot. I would think, though, that the looseness of the guard will only matter when it's so loose that it's just rattling around anyway. Then again, nodes could be anywhere on the handle depending on the type of sword, so while the guard will have an effect, the node will not necessarily be ther
  20. Peter Johnsson designs anything made by Albion, so they tend to be good references as far as reproductions go. Other than that, surf around on MyArmoury to get good examples of period examples. Generally speaking, an earlier long/great sword like this will have a simpler, straight guard and some variety of wheel pommel. If I were you, I'd see if bronze or brass pommels were common for this type (can't remember off the top of my head), since they're easier to shape and look great. The grip will generally be of wood wrapped in cord and then leather wrapped around that.
  21. Got the big billet of crushed Ws I'm working on cut, restacked, and first-pass welded on Sunday, and today I got it mostly drawn out. I had to fight it for a while to make the cross section look like a rectangle rather than a parallelogram, but I think it's all set now. It's a lot of work just to lift this thing up.
  22. That's a good idea. If he polishes the face he could also use it as a leatherworking anvil.
  23. How good are you with drilling and tapping? The only use I can see you getting out of it is if you made up dovetails that bolt on, then basically make a large power hammer die to serve as an all-metal stump anvil. Personally, I'd just give it to a machine shop.
  24. Finally finished drawing out this billet. It's at 1x1.5x33" after I cut the ends off (started as 1.5x3x12). Now I need to cut, stack, re-weld, and draw it out all over again for crushed Ws.
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