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AJ Chalifoux

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Everything posted by AJ Chalifoux

  1. Those are really, really nice. They're a great mixture of rugged and clean. I've never had the urge to make a folding knife until now. Well done!
  2. Oh that is just incredible and I love it. Great job!
  3. Well, I read that in his voice...
  4. Does she want the cross obvious, or can it be hidden? I've done holy symbols on the tangs of swords so the only people that will ever know it's there are me, the customer, and whoever finds the sword in 200 years after the grip has fallen apart. Some like that idea, some don't. If obvious is the answer, an etched cross in a fuller is kind of a nice look. The dagger sounds like a good idea too, especially with brass bolsters/guard to really bring out the green. There's a great catalogue online of all the daggers in the Metropolitan Muesum of Art, which shows a crazy amount of variation.
  5. A folding utility knife has been my go-to for 5 or 6 years. Then again, my day job is making utility blades, so that tends to lend itself well toward keeping one on me all the time.
  6. Thank you! It was a very different sword than what I'm used to, but I was happy with the end result. It is definitely fast and changed direction with little effort.
  7. This sword is loosely based off an example in the Moesgaard Museum. I made the distal taper drastic in the first 2/5 of the blade, evened it out in the second 2/5, before finally tapering again in the last 1/5 (though the tip does have a very slight swell that I intentionally kept to get a bit more mass out there). The result is a sword that feels incredibly mobile in the hand, yet still has blade presence during the cut. The pommel is hollow to keep it light while increasing the visual "weight." The original inspiration was fragmentary, but based on proportions it seems likely that the blade was originally a slender Geibig Type 4, so this one was made to have a similar slender blade shape as could be seen in other 9th-10th century blades. The blade is 1075 tempered to 50-53 HRC, the hilt components are medium-carbon steel, and the grip is a combination of wenge and purpleheart. Hopefully you all like it! Stats: Overall Length: 37.0625" Blade Length: 30.0625" Blade Width at Base: 1.625" Blade Width at Point: .827" Grip Length: 4.342" Pommel Length: 2.244" Weight: 2lb 7.6oz POB: 2.75" COP: 20" from guard Thickness at base: .189" (.480cm) Thickness at COP: .093" (.235cm) Thickness at tip: .094" (.240cm)
  8. Making some more progress on a viking sword. Last night I finished getting the fullers shaped with stones and refined the bevels with stones and files. It always surprises me how 50-53HRC blades can be filed (albeit with a bit more moxy).
  9. Kirkland beer is surprisingly okay, and the vodka too if memory serves. The scotch...let's just say the only time I've had it, I thought someone poured me a glass of rum.
  10. There's a max HP rating for VFDs. This will correlate to a max amperage rating at 230V, but as long as it's rated for that input voltage and HP, it should be fine. Remember, P = V * I (and then convert from Watts to HP) All that being said, the grinder motor determines power. Doubling the input voltage halves the current draw, but won't change anything else.
  11. Finished a small hunter, a small scramseax, and mostly forged out a short Messer in the vein of Pieter Bruegel's paintings. Normally I wouldn't forge in weather like what we've been having, but I volunteered to do demos at a summer festival
  12. Got two dirks and one dagger forged, straightened, normalized, and ready for heat treat tomorrow.
  13. True. There are larger ones that look more stable, but with more expense and having to adapt bits to work, at what point is it not worth it anymore?
  14. Has anyone ever tried using one of these for the same purpose? I was going to build one, but if this works, why not? I suppose there's no centering features built in, but that seems easy to add with a few tapped holes and angle iron. https://www.amazon.com/Taytools-468334-Router-Ductile-Hardness/dp/B07GW7X35P/ref=asc_df_B07GW7X35P/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309763890402&hvpos=1o4&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4012042591667662875&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9003322&hvtargid=pla-569147430190&psc=1
  15. For something that size, you may not necessarily need one, depending on distal taper (if there is any). If you feel it needs one, Dave's (and Peter's) information is fantastic. A good trick is to get some modeling clay and a kitchen scale. Mark out on the tang where the top and bottom of the pommel will sit and build up the modeling clay between those two points to mock up a tang. Remember to stay within the lines you set for yourself, as moving mass further up or down the tang will change things drastically. Play with a bunch of different weights until it has the dynamics you're looking for, then weigh the clay. You now know the weight you want for the pommel.
  16. Thanks! Boxy handles like that aren't everyone's cup of tea, but I do like them in some instances. In this case, I didn't want to have a smooth "flowy" grip since the blade was already very fluid. I felt that the overall piece could do with some abrupt lines just to keep it from looking like some kind of elvish war knife.
  17. An odd blade, but it's really somewhere between a huge kitchen knife and a small fantasy sword. It started out as a fantasy sword that broke on me. I decided not to waste it, especially when I saw the blade's widest point to the tip had a similar width and thickness as an 8" chef's knife. So, I ground out a tang and reinforced it with a frame handle and two brass side plates that all rivet together and it came out better than expected for a quick finish. The result is quite thin, sharp, and fast. Let me know what you think! Weight: 1 lb 2.0 oz Overall length: 22.5" Blade length: 17.5" POB: 1.75" Width at base: 1.15" Thickness at base: .109" Width at widest: 1.735" Thickness at widest: .085" Base to widest: 11.625" Thickness at tip: .054"
  18. Yesterday I started polishing this fantasy sword/really big knife. Originally it was part of a larger sword that broke on me, but I decided to salvage it. I must say, I was never a big fan of EDM stones until I tried one yesterday with some oil as a lubricant. Now I'm a big fan. Hopefully I'll have this done by the end of the week.
  19. I really, really like this!
  20. I've used Hudson Tool Steel for industrial applications: (https://www.hudsontoolsteel.com) Not insanely cheap, but I like the data they give with it. Edited to add: I don't see W2 on a cursory glance, but W1 and O1 are there.
  21. This is one of my favorites. It's tiny, and obviously ceremonial, but the artistry is amazing. It's about the size of a normal hand hammer, but weighs something like 2lbs 12oz because of the solid brass haft.
  22. I love it (and I'm sure the customer will too)!
  23. Just like airplanes and elevators, nothing has to be "good," it just has to be "good enough." My Craftsman 2x42 grinder has given me many good years of service. It's too fast and the belts wear quickly and it gets bogged down with too much pressure, but it'll do the job if you're patient and are willing to do some file work to clean up. I don't think they make those anymore, but Dayton has one that looks about the same. I know some makers that have done some really great knives with one of these and some hand sanding.
  24. McMaster-Carr has .214" thick 5160 in various lengths, but that's the thinnest they've got. That being said, it is hot rolled so by the time you knock the scale off you'll end up loosing a few thousandths...
  25. Incredible. Absolutely incredible. Well done!
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