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AJ Chalifoux

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Everything posted by AJ Chalifoux

  1. Finished a small hunter, a small scramseax, and mostly forged out a short Messer in the vein of Pieter Bruegel's paintings. Normally I wouldn't forge in weather like what we've been having, but I volunteered to do demos at a summer festival
  2. Got two dirks and one dagger forged, straightened, normalized, and ready for heat treat tomorrow.
  3. True. There are larger ones that look more stable, but with more expense and having to adapt bits to work, at what point is it not worth it anymore?
  4. Has anyone ever tried using one of these for the same purpose? I was going to build one, but if this works, why not? I suppose there's no centering features built in, but that seems easy to add with a few tapped holes and angle iron. https://www.amazon.com/Taytools-468334-Router-Ductile-Hardness/dp/B07GW7X35P/ref=asc_df_B07GW7X35P/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309763890402&hvpos=1o4&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4012042591667662875&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9003322&hvtargid=pla-569147430190&psc=1
  5. For something that size, you may not necessarily need one, depending on distal taper (if there is any). If you feel it needs one, Dave's (and Peter's) information is fantastic. A good trick is to get some modeling clay and a kitchen scale. Mark out on the tang where the top and bottom of the pommel will sit and build up the modeling clay between those two points to mock up a tang. Remember to stay within the lines you set for yourself, as moving mass further up or down the tang will change things drastically. Play with a bunch of different weights until it has the dynamics you're looking for, then weigh the clay. You now know the weight you want for the pommel.
  6. Thanks! Boxy handles like that aren't everyone's cup of tea, but I do like them in some instances. In this case, I didn't want to have a smooth "flowy" grip since the blade was already very fluid. I felt that the overall piece could do with some abrupt lines just to keep it from looking like some kind of elvish war knife.
  7. An odd blade, but it's really somewhere between a huge kitchen knife and a small fantasy sword. It started out as a fantasy sword that broke on me. I decided not to waste it, especially when I saw the blade's widest point to the tip had a similar width and thickness as an 8" chef's knife. So, I ground out a tang and reinforced it with a frame handle and two brass side plates that all rivet together and it came out better than expected for a quick finish. The result is quite thin, sharp, and fast. Let me know what you think! Weight: 1 lb 2.0 oz Overall length: 22.5" Blade length: 17.5" POB: 1.75" Width at base: 1.15" Thickness at base: .109" Width at widest: 1.735" Thickness at widest: .085" Base to widest: 11.625" Thickness at tip: .054"
  8. Yesterday I started polishing this fantasy sword/really big knife. Originally it was part of a larger sword that broke on me, but I decided to salvage it. I must say, I was never a big fan of EDM stones until I tried one yesterday with some oil as a lubricant. Now I'm a big fan. Hopefully I'll have this done by the end of the week.
  9. I really, really like this!
  10. I've used Hudson Tool Steel for industrial applications: (https://www.hudsontoolsteel.com) Not insanely cheap, but I like the data they give with it. Edited to add: I don't see W2 on a cursory glance, but W1 and O1 are there.
  11. This is one of my favorites. It's tiny, and obviously ceremonial, but the artistry is amazing. It's about the size of a normal hand hammer, but weighs something like 2lbs 12oz because of the solid brass haft.
  12. I love it (and I'm sure the customer will too)!
  13. Just like airplanes and elevators, nothing has to be "good," it just has to be "good enough." My Craftsman 2x42 grinder has given me many good years of service. It's too fast and the belts wear quickly and it gets bogged down with too much pressure, but it'll do the job if you're patient and are willing to do some file work to clean up. I don't think they make those anymore, but Dayton has one that looks about the same. I know some makers that have done some really great knives with one of these and some hand sanding.
  14. McMaster-Carr has .214" thick 5160 in various lengths, but that's the thinnest they've got. That being said, it is hot rolled so by the time you knock the scale off you'll end up loosing a few thousandths...
  15. Incredible. Absolutely incredible. Well done!
  16. Careful of that Catawiki one. There was just a series of threads on MyArmoury about a bunch of swords from there being fake and likely even from the same workshop, and this sword was on that list. The pitting is very even, the blade is in near-perfect condition otherwise, and the proportions are a bit odd. As far as the other two from Sword-Site, I wouldn't personally doubt their authenticity. I seem to recall some crossover between the late Roman-era swords with pattern welded blades and their Migration-era counterparts. I could, of course, be mistaken. There is a very neat example in the Dresden R├╝stkammer of a Persian sword that was given to a German Elector and then re-hilted in a German/English fashion. For those curious, the link is below. https://skd-online-collection.skd.museum/Details/Index/280591
  17. Love, love, love the lines on that! It's also clean without being gaudy.
  18. Thanks everyone! It wasn't fun breaking so much, and really made me realize how badly I needed a new HT furnace for swords.
  19. This sword was a wild ride from start to finish, so apologies in advance for the story. It began as a request for a fantasy sword with a strong Celtic influence. I immediately thought of something rather flashy and narrow, which led to this: I decided to forge-weld the pommel on, as many messers were done, so I came up with this: After heat treating, the flex was good: Apparently it was not meant to be, however. While testing the heat treat in the woods, something in my mind told me to hit it just one more time with the flat against a tree. *PING* it snapped into three pieces, with an enormous end grain. I guess I'd rather find out than the customer, but it still stung something fierce. Now, I was looking at a deadline that was a month and a half out so the customer had it in time for his sister's graduation, and nothing to show for it. I was getting ready to go full-bore. In three weeks, I came up with this: Obviously a different design, but boy was it fast! The blade was ground very thin, to the point where the bulge in the profile at the point had the same width, thickness, and edge geometry as an 8" chef's knife. It was slightly whippy, but not too bad and boy was it fast and light. Then one day I was starting to polish and decided to flex it again. I don't know how much I flexed it, but I imagine it was well past 90 degrees, and the thin blade didn't like that. *PING* snapped right in half. The grain looked good, so it must have been tempered just a hair too hard for the thickness of the sword. Great. Now I have three weeks to do another sword. I nearly gave up because I had almost nothing and was feeling pretty low. This story does have a happy ending. I managed to do it. Between a full-time job, martial arts, and weekend commitments I still managed to put my nose to the grindstone and turn out a sword I was proud of. It's nearly an exact copy of the second blade, with a substantially thicker spine (and substantially more weight), but the distribution keeps it surprisingly lively. The wide blade at the COP also allows for effortless cutting. This one is a product of learning from the mistakes of the past two. Careful annealing and double-quenching to make sure grain size isn't unreasonable, and a temper that should put the 5160 blade in the 52-54 HRC range. Stats: OAL: 34.5in Weight: 2lbs, 13.0oz POB: 3.5in from guard Primary Node: 11in from tip Forward Pivot Point: 7.5in from tip Blade Length: 28.25in Blade Width at Base: 1.8in Blade Width at Narrowest: 1.0in Blade Width 8.5in from Tip: 1.54in Blade Thickness at Base: 0.303in Blade Thickness at Tip: 0.099in Sheath Weight: 7.9oz
  20. I agree that this type of design is mainly used for stamping presses where the weight is in the tonnage range so it's overkill for this application, but I am attracted to the rigidity if this were to be scaled up to a larger hammer. I'll have to think about the wear plates; I have a feeling I'll redesign it for a square ram. I have another CAD model with just one cam instead of two, but I wanted to see what a camshaft-type system would look like and lo and behold, here we are. Keep in mind the springs weren't shown in these models though. I've got some of the materials and may end up giving it a go in the next few months (hard to say no for about $400). If I don't like the other cam I can always cut it off and re-use the cut off portion for another one.
  21. 3" SCHD 40 pipe has an ID of 3.068", so a 3" OD ram would have 0.034" of play on the sides, which I don't think is unreasonable (though I could be wrong!).
  22. I had this idea a few days ago and wanted to see what people think. I was inspired by certain mini power hammers that could be mounted on a steel bench top. So, I decided to design one. I made a few improvements; the double-cam mimics those seen on punch presses such as Minster, etc. and gets rid of any cantilevering that could distort drive shafts or break welds. both cams are mounted to vertical necks using flange-mounted bearings. The ram guide is also supported on both sides. The ram itself would be 15lbs and the whole thing has a 5" stroke with a 3.5" gap between ram guide and anvil. Unfortunately the concept limits the anvil size. you could put a longer steel cylinder as the anvil to up the weight, but that limits the whole "small" thing I was going for. the entire hammer with motor takes up a 1'x3' space and would weigh about 350lbs total. For smaller projects it strikes me as a potentially convenient tool, and it looks like the total cost if everything was bought new would be less than $1,000. Let me know what you think!
  23. That's fun! I've always been a fan of this one too
  24. Love all the colors and how the burl ties together the light gold of the bronze and the dark stripes of the blade. Nice outline with bold contrast.
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