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  1. It can vary a bit based on the wheel size attached to the platen plates. For 72" belts, 20" is about the minimum, but I normally suggest 24". If you cut your 6' bar in half, you should be able to run up to 90" belts. Jamie
  2. I think you want one as well, but I think I may be biased... ;)/> A 1hp will work, but you will find it under powered. I recommend a minimum of 1 1/2 hp at 3450 rpm. If you want variable speed, you'll need a vfd and a 3 phase motor. Regardless of what type of motor, I recommend getting it from Wayne Coe (website is http://www.waynecoeartistblacksmith.com/). Good guy with good prices and support. Jamie
  3. I've always wanted an anvil like that. A little bigger than the original, though. Jamie
  4. Thanks! I've done it, and it will work. I ended up making a few different versions along that line. It wasn't quite what I was looking for though. Make sure when you build it that you share pictures! Jamie
  5. http://www.usaknifemaker.com/store/8x2-poly-contact-wheel-70duro-p-1354.html Jamie
  6. My laser cut kit can be assembled very affordably. I have a price break down listed at http://www.polarbearforge.com/grinder_kit_breakdown.html that has costs based on brand new parts. Somebody who can scrounge a bit can build it for less. An earlier version of my kit can be found at http://blindhogg.com/eerfgrinder.html,where cad files are available for free. As was pointed out, the NWG is also out there, and the plans that Wayne will be supplying. What price range are you aiming to fill? Jamie
  7. I'm sorry to hear that. My condolescenes to family and friends. He will be missed. Jamie
  8. Looks good! I've had mine in place for quite a few years, and really like it. I did build it with the lever on the side. I use it for fast adjustments while rolling. Here's how I use it, I'll set the height with the nut. I'll make the first roll through by putting my foot to the floor, pull the lever towards me a bit and put my foot to the floor, run a second time, pull the lever a bit more and put my foot to the floor, and run it through again. Anytime I run I have the pedal all the way down. The lever is also useful for (as was noted) drawing tapers. I use it to taper the tang while forging and to taper the blade. My rollers are right at 2" diameter, and I'm running the rpms at 25. Jamie
  9. Looks good! I've never seen tension setup like that either. Jamie
  10. I was told that it was a silversmithing anvil and was on the smaller side. I'd love better pictures, as well, but have yet to find any. I don't remember where I got this one. Actually, I'd love to have several anvils of this style. Jamie
  11. The KMG is definately a good, solid grinder. You can't go wrong there. You can build one for less with a little time. The grinder in a box can be built for under $800 for a single speed. If you get a vfd and motor from Wayne Coe you can set it up for variable speed. Jamie
  12. I'll admit to a bit of bias, but the grinder in a box is right within your price range. If you get the motor and vfd from Wayne Coe, you could build a variable speed grinder for right around $1000 (it's just a bit more than that). If you go with single speed (nothing wrong with it, all my grinders are single speed) you can build one for less. Jamie
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