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    Central Illinois
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    Family ,cabinetmaking and toolmaking

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  1. Hi Jim, Such a wonderful choice for a subject. Early this summer I checked out every book I could find on Japanese woodblock prints. It is truly astounding that the images are actually carved into a wood block and printed rather than painted. You certainly do justice to the original. Best of Luck Steve
  2. I have had very bad luck with Admiral doing anything beyond thier stock items. So much in fact that I will never order from them again. They act like they are somehow going way out of their way to preform simple cuts. I am sure you could do better buy buying your steel elsewhere and having it cut. I now order my steel from Aldo even though admiral is 100 miles from my door Anyway Good Luck Steve
  3. Matt , First off there is no shame in using modern cutting methods to profile a blade Second I think most everyone would agree that you have a great design talent. I too am making a small production run of kiridashis and wood working knives. It really helps me to do the same process over and over to refine my skill before I move on to an other project. I looked at your website and had trouble linking to the info about the knives on the gallery page Might want to check that out. Good Luck Steve
  4. bronzetools


    Evan This is good news. Thanks for describing your process I have a bunch of CDA 360 leaded Brass that I thought I would try using with mokume before I heard it would shear I cautioned about using leaded brass because the late Master Bladesmith Bill Fiorini Stated at a Hammer-in that leaded brass will shear when forged or rolled. He said it may bond, but Bill said not to use it because of shearing and delamintion. Your step of coating the pieces with borax before you stack them is different from Bill's Method. That flux and the coating it makes at hi temp. may just be the thing that makes it work. For now I will use up the CDA 260 and try a few test billets using CDA 360 and flux. Thanks Again Steve
  5. You now have the perfect opportunity to practice grinding a knife shaped object without fear of wasting a good piece of tool steel. Everyone needs practice grinding when they first start out. Using cold rolled mild steel takes the pressure off. Good Luck Steve
  6. Last week I looked at the last of the assets of Sugar Creek Industries that was up for auction I talked breifly to the owner and he said he was calling it quits after 62 years . There was no inventory of brand new kilns left on site. I am sure USA Knifemakers will stand behind what they sell. Steve
  7. Rick, Thanks for your reply. As soon as I can get some spare time I will see if I can find a good example that will photograph well, clean it up and etch it I will also see if I can find the paper by howard and Dr.Verhoeven Thanks Again Steve
  8. Greg, I am sorry but I do not have any pics of the problem . It mostly has been occuring with Mosaic billets after much manipulation. I will see if I can find an example , then sand ,etch and take some pics. Thanks for the input Steve
  9. Evan, Thanks for your input I have been making alot of decorative billets with some 1008,hi mang.1074,15n20 and 1095. I like some of the pattern enough to want to use it on some San Mai. In the past year I have had what I call "smearing" from I guess using low carbon next to high carbon and going through many welding heats. I seem to have solved the problem by always placing 15N20 on both sides of the low carbon. I can not say for sure the 15n20 is really slowing the blending of colors so I thought maybe someone with a little more knowledge than myself could say for sure. The silver of the 15n20 makes the nice blue -grey of this 1008 really pop regardless of the carbon movement. Good Luck Steve
  10. I have been wondering if a steel that has a small to medium Nickle content such as 15n20 or 304SS would present a partial Carbon barrier to slow Carbon migration? Or does an alloy have to be almost pure nickle as in Nickle 200 to block carbon? Thanks Steve
  11. bronzetools


    One thing that is not mentioned in some Mokume Gane tutorials is the need to use Non-Leaded Brass. Use CDA 260 brass with your billet to avoid shearing problems while forging and rolling. This CDA 260 Brass alloy is called Forging Brass or Jewlery Brass and can be bought from Rio Grande. Good Luck Steve
  12. http://www.mcmaster.com/#quenching-oil/=hug9cp" Hi Dan, I use McMaster-Carr's fast quench 11 second oil which I have heard is close to or replaces Parks 50 Mcmaster-Carr should be better for you on shipping Good Luck Steve
  13. Karl , Another well made work of art. If no one else has mentioned it on this forum, I would like to congratulate you on your ABS award. I have admired your work for quite some time now and I think your award was well earned. Good Luck in Atlanta Steve
  14. I got this Grizzly metal bender for Christmas a few years ago It had mostly been gathering dust until I started to hot cut and fold my billets to make W's. I had no problem with the cutting or the keeping the faces clean for a good weld but... Dag-nabit the first few hits trying to get my fold started - - always ended with a wacked out handle or some other struggle. I got to thinking about the problem and it dawned on me to use the bender, Now folding is a breeze and the angle is well past 90* so the finishing the fold is very easy. If anybody else struggles with the first part of the hot fold I sure hope this idea will help. Good Luck Steve
  15. Great work Dave, If you are going steampunk you might want to go out and get some copper nails and brass round head tacks to add a little "Rivet" work. Things like your anvil stand can never be too overdone. Good Luck Steve
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