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gmerrell

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Posts posted by gmerrell

  1. I've been trying to make a couple tomahawks for my son and I and I'm having marginal success. I tried making a drift out of a 10" long by 1 1/8" diam bar and it's just too short and the angle is too steep, the top to flairing out.

     

    I was wondering if anyone out there has a mandrel/drift that they never use that they would be willing to sell at an incredible deal, I can only work a couple hours a day before the pain gets to me so I really cannot justify $35 + shipping to buy a new one.

     

    Also I’ve making them with the wrap around the mandrel method and would like to try making a hawk from a sold bar but don’t have any high carbon steel large enough if anyone has a 1” to say 1 ½” diam bar big enough to pound out a hawk, let me know.

     

    I'm not looking for charity but if someone has the drift that’s just sitting I’ll
    put it to use, Thanks for any help

     

    Greg

  2. all I'm have a problem maintaining my
    forge temp while also keeping a reducing atmosphere.


    Fist I'm in Colorado at about 9500 feet

    so the O2 is thin. I'm also using an old Kerby vacuum as my blower
    with a dimmer switch to control the speed (I know red neck city) I
    also have a dust collector blast gate on the output to restrict the
    air flow going to the burner. The air that doesn't go to the burner
    goes through a Y to a pipe at the front of the forge to push the
    flame up away from the opening.


    My forge has about 4" of kwool on all sides, and once I get up to 2200-2300°F

    I can't keep the temp down and keep a reducing atmosphere in the
    forge. If I turn the air flow way down and still keep an orange flam
    coming out the forge the temp creeps up >2400. If I turn the air
    up so the temp goes down then I lose the orange. I usually end up
    with the propane pressure around 0.5psi and the air barely on. Then
    turn the needle valve for the propane to get the reducing atmosphere
    then turn the gas off when I pull the billet out of the forge so it
    cools down.

     

    Any help? I tried turning the gas pressure up to 7psi with the needle
    valve almost closed and the air way down and that kinda helps?

  3. To do it right you need to spend some time learning and practicing. If you are only going to do a couple you might talk to a local gunsmith and see what he would charge you to do it. He might even let you sit in and see how he does it.

    g-

  4. I found an old post vise in the local scrap yard and excitedly brought it home. one problem the female threads are completely worn away. The threads on the shaft are worn but still usable. Does anyone have the ability to cut threads this large? I haven't measured them yet but the shaft is close to 1" diam.

    Thanks for any suggestions.

    Greg

  5. I'm at 8500" and I can forge without a blower but not weld. If I added another burner maybe but my burner I'm using is one of those weed burners from harbor freight with a 2 foot section of exhaust pipe stuck on (very red neck). Of course I'm using a old electric leaf blower as a dust collector hooked up to a mickey mouse cyclone dust collector with a port to hook up my shop vac for extra suck power.

     

    So you you built a good burner you might be able to weld at 7000.

    g-

  6. I'm just getting started in damascu steel and had a ? about what color you get after etching from the different steels due just to carbon?

    I know you get light and darker but don't know which is which. I'm assuming that you can expect darker to lighter (or lighter to darker) say going from 1018 to 1050 to 1065 to 1080 to 1095, but which is the light end and which is the dark?

    Thanks

    Greg

  7. For a burl just about any cut is good, first try using either a power washer (easy way) or screwdriver to peal the bark off the burl. If you find spikes under the bark then you can get 2 different grains. If you what more eyes in the grain cut across the eyes, if you want more lines (kinda like fiddle back) then cut parallel to the spikes.

     

    For the crotch I would cut down so I cut through both of the branches of the "Y" Does that make sense??? in other words if the crotch is like this "Y" you want to cut down from the top so the chain saw goes through both of the top arm and down through the middle.

     

    Home this helps

    G-

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