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Everything posted by Cylvre

  1. Very interesting comparison Skip, thanks for taking the time to gather them together for us.
  2. Springfield Leather has 'Economy' double shoulders for $2.99/sq.ft. with a minimum order of 12 square feet so that could get you going for less than $40 (http://springfieldleather.com/store/product/22377/Shoulder%2CDouble%2CEcon%2C8-10oz/). Otherwise, depending on the size of the blades you plan on making, you might be able to buy scrap or remenant packs such as this: http://www.zackwhite.com/product.php?productid=16305&cat=491&page=1 or this: http://springfieldleather.com/store/product/4726/Remnants%2CTooling%2C2-lbs-Bag/. Siegal of California has some really great Friday only specials, they even take requests sometimes if you'd like something in particular discounted. You could sign up for their e-mail newsletter and keep an eye on it. You'll be buying full cuts or hides so it'll be pricier (depending on quality) but you'll get a good hunk of material. Sign up for their newsletter and Friday specials here: https://www.siegelofca.com/friday_special.asp
  3. That is one sharp looking blade... seriously!
  4. I'm going to second Geoff here, especially on the weight. One thing I do have to say though is you really need to resize your picture, we try to keep board-hosted pictures under 800x600 and 100Kb, your sketch is 1716x2464 and 617Kb. Check out this thread for more info: http://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?showtopic=14625 If you would like to have larger images you can upload them at photobucket or another third party site and embed them in your post. Bryan put together some info on how to do that here: http://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?showtopic=15570
  5. These stands you've been turning out look great Serge!
  6. I like how you've tapered the handle back toward the lanyard hole. I've seen a lot of these that are just all right angles and square edges and this just looks much more natural and comfortable to use.
  7. http://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?showtopic=15352&st=-20&p=112&hl=touchmarks&fromsearch=1entry112
  8. Cylvre

    Plastic katana?

    I'd bet it's Amber! Anyone who has ever handled amber will tell you that it looks and feels /exactly/ like plastic, very light in weight and a smooth surface (heck, it used to be used as the resin in lacquer until better modern alternatives were found.) Black amber isn't completely uncommon (less than 15% naturally occuring due to soil, bark, or vegetable matter in the resin) but there are is also red amber (rare, less than .5%) some of which are so dark as to appear black unless viewed against a strong light source. Amber was used for carvings as well (I've seen an entire Chinese chess set with the black side carved of deep orange amber) so in a decorative piece I don't think it would be out of the question to have carved amber fittings. Here are some examples: This is what I think those fittings would be carved like (a very dark red amber): http://www.antiquehelper.com/item/333815 Here are a couple of Chinese amber carvings to show the detail they could get: http://www.antiquehelper.com/item/333826 http://www.antiquehelper.com/item/333817
  9. it reminds me of some british military knives that I saw once upon a time. almost bayonet-like. very cool!
  10. If you're able to burn, which if you're looking to forge you must, and you can find a steady supply of wood then you can very easily make all the charcoal you want for only some time and whatever you spend on making the converter (which, since you can even use a decent sized hole in the ground, can be practically nothing.) Personally I take discarded pallets and cut them down to use for fuel and material to convert to charcoal. If you're living on land that has woods there should be a fair amount of deadfall that could be used as well. Use the search up at the top of the forum, and google, to find some plans and read, read, read. Welcome!
  11. Definitely not your average spike knife. Very fine work.
  12. I'm sure others will be able to explain this better than I but I'll take a stab at it. San Mai, also called laminated steel, is a way of utilizing the strengths of both hard carbon steel (hardness, keen edge,) with mild steel (toughness, shock and shatter resistance.) In San Mai construction you forge a blank with a high carbon middle layer sandwiched between two mild steel outer layers, then when you remove material along the edge of the blade during sharpening you will expose the high carbon inner layer which will take a finer edge but still have the durability of the mild steel 'jacket.' It's a similar idea to setting a file into the head of an axe or tomahawk, if you make the entire head out of a very hard steel you'd have a much higher chance of it cracking or breaking under the abuse and using all mild wouldn't have as fine of an edge so you combine the two for a better final product.
  13. Whoa! That's.... ok, now I feel like an idiot. Totally missed the tutorial link first time around. That's crazy detail. Just imagine how even more convincing those could be after a good patina/finish. Obviously I was fooled.
  14. ... ... ... *speechless*
  15. Bark can tend to be brittle and flaky so I would find a way to stabilize the scales first. If you can do that I think you'll have a very cool handle in your future!
  16. First time I've popped into the chat and I had a great time talking with you all!
  17. Got to love the beautiful steel that come from such ugly chunks of rust. Great work!
  18. I'd hate to cut it down right off the bat. I'd probably sink the thing down into the ground so the 20x5 face was at proper anvil height and have a 1300lbs post anvil. That's a lot of mass to pound on!
  19. Ah, Propriety, my old nemesis. We meet again... I'll get you one day Propriety! *shakes fist* /end threadjack
  20. Looks like a magma vent, straight into the heart of a volcano.
  21. Deaths scythe... oh yes, that would be sooo cool and i am soooo not equipped for it.
  22. That's a good looking daily use knife. I'm going to echo Noah's suggestion of pinning the scales, even just one or two can go a long way to keep them on for years longer than only adhesive. Other that you look to have a great grasp of aesthetics. The thing that really separates an ok or good knife from a truly great one is being able to combine that skill for visual appeal with sharpness, toughness, and durability. So read up on heat treating and making blades that perform as good as they look and you'll do very well. Welcome to the boards! ~Chris
  23. I have severe blade lust for this falchion, and I'm pretty certain that it's only going to get worse. Keep up the amazing work Ben!
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