Hessian

Yes, Wild Rose it's a #2 Trout and Bird knife. Although, I think the blade is before they started full production on the East coast. If I'm correct then it was made by Russell and not Mr.Grohmann. Thank you for the advice, I'll give it a light cleaning with Hoppes and decide if it shall be shop use or returned to storage.

Today the owner of the local farrier supply center came by to give me the run down on the forge I purchsed from him. As I showed him my meager start at tools I showed him a knife I was going to use for scraping the metal after removing from the forge. We at the time had been speaking about quality when it comes to tools. The knife I stated to him had great balance and felt like a tool when held. He laughed as soon as the knife was in his hand. Someone who wants to become a bladesmith and doesn't know when he is holding a piece of Canadian history, although I can tell what quality should feel like. Needless to say out of respect to the builder I was thinking of trying to fix some of the ravages of time. If I could have some suggestions on how one would start to returning a blade or stopping some of the decay. This blade has sat in my garage (unheated) in a tool chest for well over ten years while I have been away. Gotta give credit to the builder he knew how to shape something in a way that gives confidence to the user that the tool is capable of the task. Thanks in advance and I searched but found it difficult to find the proper words used for refinishing.

There is several ways of drying wood. Most countries go with sun dried milled wood. (slatted and turned at certain times through the year) Although it does drop the moisture rate of the wood it also leaves lots of headaches ahead from checkering or getting serious cracks during finishing. A simple tool is a moisture rate indicator, (looks like a cooking tool) if you can get your core wood % in the 4-8% moisture rate you should be good. Of course all things change by species, oil content of the wood and if it is character wood. You might also look into a simple humidity box with a quick exhaust system, basically drawing out the moisture and sweep it away from the wood. I'll look around for a picture of a box used for warping woods, similar process to building the box.

I suppose everyone comes across a tool at some point that draws your attention. For me it's not usually flashy lights and cutting edge design. Two weeks ago tomorrow I attended my first public estate sale. It was a interesting experience to say the least. One of my won lots had a mystery fishing/tool box. You could tell that it had some weight to it from the effort put into lifting it by the auctioneer. I was thinking it was a box of sockets and was happy to find out it was. In the bottom of the box though was a lonely screw driver. The moment I picked it up I knew it had no place belonging with the other mass produced tools. No, this was no simple driver, it had weight, balance and a air of craftmenship. Being from a wood background I don't have many needs to fulfill from it's flat head (Roberts ftw) but all the same I find myself having it handy. Hope the posting works and I'm within the requirements. Please feel free to tell me about your special finds or tools you have inherited that you still use that fill a special place in your shop.

I'm at 36 hitch balls, hopefully that is the last of them. The goal is to not bring more scrap onto the property since I'm off again in June to another country. So we are hoping to learn basic mig welding and basic bladesmithing/blacksmithing skills before then. All three of us have lots of spare time this winter so should make use of that time.

I was thinking of making some Japanese style spear heards (c1670s) with them. The hefty hammer hitters are friends who decided they need a midlife crisis as well. I was hoping to start with something that gives us lots of room and metal to move. Although looks like it's coil springs until they soak. It's all new so it's all exciting! Thank you for the advice. Ken

There is a gentlemen up my way (currently Ontario, Canada) who I spoke with while searching for a anvil. This gentlemen has a 250 pound and a 500 pound for sale. Which was interesting since I have only ever seen 150's. He explained to me to the difference made by using the big boys is incredible. That if you can afford one and have the space in the long run you will be a happy camper. That said I'm having problems finding a railroad rail section.

I have been slowly getting together a shop over the last few weeks. My forge arrives tomorrow and I was looking around the shop for something that I can learn heating and shaping on. This would be a good time to point out that I also have two large men with sledges for assistance. My concern is the chrome liner on the outside of the hitch balls, is there any safety concerns with heating and drawing this metal into the drop forged high carbon metal of the inside? I wanted to work on something I was thinking of trying since for some reason we have a bucket of hitch balls. Propane NC Bladesmiths forge. Thank you for your time. Ken

I would see first how much of the crack can be removed by the old clothes iron trick. After that I would seal and wire clamp and leave for a week or so. Or start over.

Very nice, I especially like the handle.

Beautiful piece, how is the balance on it? If I may also ask if the blackening is from a forge process or is it from a 3rd party agent after. Again, incredible piece.

Excellent work. Thank you for sharing.

After careful thought, I will go with a house hipo.

I'd be interested in 20 please. Knowing the shipping will be extra for Ontario Canada.