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Stephen Stumbo

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About Stephen Stumbo

  • Birthday 10/01/1993

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Near Gastonia North Carolina
  • Interests
    Bladesmithing, blacksmithing, welding.

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  1. Just recently finished up. Handforged 1080 blade @61 RC Stabilized and dyed curly maple, with copper bolsters.
  2. Maybe so, I'm not sure. I do know it's good and sharp. I've never done or used a gut hook before, so I pulled up pictures of other knives with em, and went from those. The fellow getting it is a local friend, and after he uses it, he'll report back to me, and if needed I'll make adjustments to his knife.
  3. Just finished, Skinner/Utility with gut hook. Handforged 1084 blade, with 500 grit working finish. Blued steel bolster w/ red spacers. Whitetail handle (customer provided, from his own hunting). OAL- 9" Blade - 4.25"
  4. Yeah, the customer said when I first talked to him about the knife that he'd likely never use it, but I just can't let it out of my shop when I know I can do it better. A forge welded edge of 1084 will address the issue well I believe. That's a good idea. I'm planning on cutting some pieces of the same mild steel, and quenching in different mediums, etc, and testing them. I'll try to make sure I test hardness at varying depths also. Will report back when I have more results.
  5. As an addendum. I will be moving forward with this blade by forge welding some 1084 to the tine for the edge.
  6. Did a little testing recently with the magical elixer known as "SuperQuench". I hope to do some more in the future, and get some better data, but I thought I'd share what I had so far. Thus came about because I'm trying to make a knife for a customer out of a tiller tine he supplied (he gave me a box full of em). He specifically requested I use the tiller tine, and the deer antler he supplied, that way it's all from stuff that was his. After failing to get the tiller tine hardness above 44ish Rockwell with water quenching(I have access to a tester at work). I decided to try the enigmatic superquench. Here are my results. Tiller tine, raw, untouched, etc. = 44 - 46 Rc. Tiller tine quenched in water = 44 HRc Tiller tine in SuperQuench = 48-50 HRc Mild steel (alloy unknown). As is hotrolled. = 3 HRc. Same mild steel, in SuperQuench = 42-43 HRc.
  7. It's Ironwood of some variety. I have a large block of it that I was given several years ago. Looks very nice.
  8. Most recent knife. Custom chefs knife. 1080 steel, 60 Rockwell. Ironwood scales, bronze bolsters, and SS pins.
  9. Just finished this one recently, as a wedding present for some friends getting married. went with a rustic, frontier inspired style, with a bit of a tip hump, reminiscent of a nussmuk look. 1080 blade, with linen micarta scales, peened copper bolsters, and mosaic bolsters.
  10. Thank you. The inlays had me nervous when I went to do em, because the customer asked me about them after the handles were completely finished (I did charge extra for that, lol). But, all in all, I am happy with them, and I was able to get the refinished area around them to blend back in well, which had me the most worried. Thank you sir! He's a handful, lol. 1 yr old, and thinks he's 3. I can't wait for him to get old enough to "help" in the shop.
  11. Indeed! I found two old wagon wheels in an old family barn. Checked if they were wrought, and I hit the jackpot. But like you say, their pattern is nothing like the large wrought chain I also have. Quite an interesting difference.
  12. Hi guys! I think I said this last time I showed up after a long absence, but I am alive! Between work, and watching the baby when I'm home, so the wife has a break, forging has taken a back burner, but I do manage to finish a few things here and there, lol. Just finished up these new tomahawks recently. First piece: Head is forged from wagon wheel wrought iron, wrapped and welded, with a 1084 high carbon steel bit. Finished up with a long etch to really show off the grain. The handle is a really nice piece of bird's-eye Maple that I special ordered just for this piece. The other two pieces are back to my typical hawks, mild steel head with 1084 bits, on curly Maple handles. The only thing not as per the norm, are the inlaid brass plates. The customer wanted to engrave his sons names on these for Christmas presents. #eagle_eye_forge #tomahawk #handmade #handforged #wroughtiron #blacksmith #hawk
  13. One of my main problems is that the circuit breaker is not tripping, or else I'd automatically assume I needed to take a second look at the circuit requirements. But instead, the compressor has it's own little circuit protector built in, and it pops off. So while my shop circuit may be underrated (I'm actually getting ready to rewire the whole shop soon so I can run my welder, so power needs will be addressed soon). I don't think giving it a heavier circuit will stop the compressors built in protector from tripping. Maybe I'm misunderstanding? I'm no electrician, so that's highly likely.
  14. Hey ya'll, slightly uncommon question for this forum I'm sure, but I figure someone oughta have some ideas. I've currently got an 8 gallon oiled compressor from HF (I know, I want to upgrade asap, but there's more important things on my list first). Normally it runs great, it's not the best compressor out there, but works good. I've noticed however, as it's started getting cold around here it doesn't want to get started. I can't name a specific temp, but it seems like under 40F it starts getting cranky, It'll turn over a couple times, then stop and trip the built in circuit protector. If I fiddle with it long enough it'll finally get over that "hump" and start running, once it does, it's fine. I'm not sure if this is one of the electrical components underperforming because of the cold, or if the oil is getting thick enough that it's stalling the cheapo electric motor I'm sure they have on it. Thoughts? If it is the oil, should I change out the compressor oil in it for a thinner one? Thanks ya'll.
  15. Hey Alan, thanks for the words, I've always found myself inspired by your work when it comes to tomahawks. The blade finish is a satin finish with a scotchbrite belt, and then several coats of cold blue. I find that even though it's hard to get a deep solid color with cold blue, I actually like the uneven finish. It gives it a slightly aged look (to me at least, lol). Thanks Sam, the handles are all Curly Maple, one of my favorite woods.
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