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Stephen Stumbo

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About Stephen Stumbo

  • Birthday 10/01/1993

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Near Gastonia North Carolina
  • Interests
    Bladesmithing, blacksmithing, welding.

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  1. I do quite a lot of steak flippers, forged from old wrenches, but recently I had an order for a custom set of grill tools. A long flipper (approx 24" long), with a matching fork and long handled knife. Here's what I came up with.
  2. For a relatively inexpensive grinder, I have been pleased with my Bauer 4.5" angle grinder (high end Harbor Freight). It has a rat tail, which in my opinon is a great feature. Especially if you use it a lot.
  3. I'm in. Assuming dates work out. It'd be nice to see alot of those guys again. I missed the last several before they stopped. Stephen Stumbo
  4. Hey Man. Shoot me a message, or email me (mail@eagleeyeforge.com) I work in a machine shop and can do this for you in my off time. Just pay for the aluminum and shipping.
  5. The most important thing to note here is that Jerrod is completely correct about the hardness tester. You'll never get accurate results on something as small as a knife. We have an impact style hardness tester, similar to what you linked to (I believe its SPI brand) and a standard Rockwell tester at work. One of the first things I did after I started working there, was test the same blade with both. The impact tester simply will not give accurate results. I tried holding it in a vise, holding it firmly against a granite table, etc. Just isn't useful. I would be more trusting of Rockwell files than I would an impact tester for our knifemaking purposes. While you may not have blades as hard as you want, you certainly don't have 25 HRC blades.
  6. Hey Alan. No problem, I always enjoy learning the history surrounding this craft. As to your question, I do not. I simply finish sand, and whisker the CM haft, then brush on the chromic trioxide. After it dries, I go at it with 0000 steel wool, till the grain is popped out, and the finish is as slick as I want it.
  7. Thank ya. The line you're seeing is the quench line. Behind that line it's un-hardened. I used "majestic maple" it's a chromic trioxide mix that I find really pops the color and chatoyance of curly maple. Thank ya very much sir.
  8. Recently finished tomahawk. I dubbed it the "HammerHawk" as it's previous life was spent as a ball peen hammer. Forged from a ball peen hammer, steel is cold blued, fitted with a curly maple handle, and a leather sheath.
  9. Just recently finished this one out. Same design as the one I did earlier this year, but with Thuya Burl. Blade - Wagon Wheel Wrought / 80Crv2. Handle - Thuya / SS hardware.
  10. It comes all the way down to an edge but its a rather steep angle, so it's not what I would term "sharp" (You would have to try to cut yourself with it). The customer is going to look it over before he uses it in the field, and let me know if wants anything changed or adjusted (He's done this hunting before, so he knows what he wants in the knife. I however, will stick to distance hunting, lol).
  11. Here's the best closeup I have. It did take away from the figuring somewhat, in the stippled area. But I chose a somewhat less figured block I had for that reason. I certainly wouldn't suggest it on a $70 block of gorgeous Koa. But on a nice looking block of stabilized maple, that errs towards the plain side, it makes it a bit more visually interesting, as well as giving a very nice addition to grip retention.
  12. Just finished up and delivered this Hog Hunter knife. 8" blade, long enough to pierce vitals, and a full length semi sharpened back edge to assist with piercing the thick hide. (Customer is providing the brass balls needed to take on a wild hog that up close and personal). Blade is handforged 80Crv2, with an electro-etched boars head on the polished bevel. Handle is stabilized maple, with a blued steel guard, and red fiber spacers. I stippled a portion of the handle for extra grip, and added a lanyard tube/lanyard for knife retention.
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