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Everything posted by Gyuri

  1. Gyuri

    Quench warping

    I'm still experimenting with this, but my method is to stock 10 or so blades from the same material, ready for HT. Then send them to the pr HT company. They charge for it by the kilogram, BTW
  2. Gyuri

    Quench warping

    I think everyone knows the phenomenon. I wrote a short rant about it: https://makesg.wordpress.com/2015/08/26/the-painful-truth-about-blade-warping/ Now I'm curious: is it a daily issue for everyone? How much warpage is too much?
  3. I know someone who started making medieval armor in his apartment. Now he's one of the most well known whitesmith in my country. Anyway, whether your plan comes together financially is a pen-and paper question: write down your financial goals, your expenses, the income from one of your product, etc. - I think you get it. You'll find out whether you'll be meeting your plan or have to change something. Finally, good luck and keep us updated about your progress.
  4. I wrote an article about blade coatings: https://makesg.wordpress.com/2015/08/18/knife-blade-coatings-give-em-a-jacket/ Do you use some type on your blades? Why? Why not?
  5. Collin, I absolutely agree. But I found that cleaning up your workspace does clean up your mind, that's why many points are indeed about keeping order. There are times when I stop the work on one project and work on something else, or call it a day entirely. These are the situations when I just don't feel like I can produce the quality that expect from myself.
  6. I collected the ten habits that I find the worst in the shop: https://makesg.wordpress.com/2015/07/30/workshop-safety-10-dangerous-habits/ What is your opinion?
  7. Dan, The comparison you made is more common than you would think. Talking about composites, it is always a question whether CF or GF should be used for a specific part. GF can be equally strong, it only needs a few more layers than CF, and it will flex more if similarly designed (Its weight, however, will be significantly heavier due to GF-s higher specific weight, which leads to the cause why we see CF in high-end applications). The point is that GF composites need not be much heavier (just thicker), although they have the fraction of UTS than their CF equivalents.
  8. I know that there are a lot who still use carbon steel alongside high alloy material. I wrote a topic to start a conversation on the subject: https://makesg.wordpress.com/2015/07/22/why-i-like-carbon-steel/ What do you think?
  9. When browsing the net for handle materials, I found a lot of information about production knife handle materials, but nothing about the ones that custom knifemakers usually use. I thought that a list of those would be helpful, so I wrote an article that collects the more exotic knife handle materials that a custom knifemaker can use: https://makesg.wordpress.com/2015/07/15/exotic-knife-handle-materials/ Please let me know what you think. Also, I'm aware that the list is far from complete, so any ideas are welcome.
  10. Brandon, Thanks for the input, I appreciate that. Ironically, I didn't have the chance to get near that unfinished handle in the past week or two, but this gives me some hope. On a side note, a fellow knifemaker gave me a good tip: if it sinks in water, it is properly impregnated. Thanks once again.
  11. Having neatly gathered all the necessary equipment, I finally decided to give handle stabilization a try. I drew the inspiriation from Ariel Salaverria's great article on the subject, and did pretty much everything the same. I chose a nice walnut stock, completely dry and carved a handle out of it for one of my nessmuk blades. Joined the vacuum, mixed the polyesther resin and voila - everything went as expected, and when the resin started to show up in the vacuum pipe, I shut off the pump, cleaned the excess off the handle and left it to cure. When I started to sand it next day, I was surprised. I expected something completely plastic-like, but the feel and touch of the handle was barely different than before. It seemed to be smoother and a bit harder though. I have to admit that I never touched any stabilized wood before. Is it okay to have a wood-like feeling when sanded, or should it be more like some kind of plastic? Did something go wrong during stabilization? I'm clueless. Thanks for the input.
  12. Looks like it's time to salvage a reasonably sized blower - thank you all for the input. This one is a long term project for me, but I'll post any progress.
  13. Though I never used one, these respirators do look great. Only problem is, I don't have $500+ for a respirator, so I started thinking: If I attach my shop air to the mask through an adjustable valve and a huge filter, would it work? The air cable would be somewhat a nuisance, but it may work for less than a hundred bucks. If someone tried this, I'd be glad to hear whether it is a viable solution, if not, I may give it a shot myself.
  14. My recently built mini grinder works OK, but it has several disadvantages due to my initial lack of experience. Several years and a lot of lessons later, now I decided to build high-end piece that suits my needs for many years to come. As a design engineer, I start all my projects with CAD, this one being no exception. The attached document is the result of many-many hours of thinking and modelling, and now I can say that the model is complete to the last screw. The machine accepts 2x72" belts both in horizontal and vertical position. Most of its plates can be cut by hand or at your local steel yard (all but one plates are 10mm thick) and welded together with some experience, while the turned components can be made with a bench lathe. It accepts most motor sizes around 1.5Hp and an optional VFD. The tooling arm and the attached components can be easily changed. I tried really hard to think about everything. But now I need your help. Many members have a lot more experience with belt grinders than me, and I could really use some input should something be changed. I greatly appreciate any opinion regarding the design. If I complete the machine, I'm gonna document the process and make all the blueprints available for free. Now let the process begin. kmg_clone_01.pdf
  15. Thanks for the comments. The hidden pin is actually no big deal. The tang had a number of holes, which were copied to the handle scales. These blind holes were then filled with epoxy along with the holes in the blade, followed by gluing on the scales. When cured, I got a number of epoxy pins which are supposed to keep everything in place. I could have used solid pins, but my experience is that cured epoxy alone is strong enough to withstand the abuse. However, this is my first experiment with this method, so only time will tell. Also, if anyone has a good method for this, I would love to know it.
  16. I like this shape, it's quite wicked. How does it perform in the kitchen?
  17. Carved bruyere handle and sheath. Forged Elmax. Come on... I rarely meet this level of craftsmanship. What technique did you use on the copper?
  18. Yepp, viscosity seems to be an issue. I think I will go with a NaCl-CaCl (or similar) mix, may be just as obtainable as borax. Thank you all for the input!
  19. I forged this one more than two years ago, when a customer wanted a simple carbon steel slicer. The business was cancelled when much of the rough filing was already done, so the blade was thrown on a shelf and stayed until one of my friends found it. He liked the shape (just as me), and told me that I should do something with it. My workshop went through quite a development in that period and finishing the blade was a fraction of the work it would have been two years earlier, so I decided to make a decent kitchen knife for myself. There are a number of things that I would do differently. The blade should be thinner, I should have left more of the forged surface, and I swear I will never ever use leather for spacers again. Still, looking at it makes me satisfied. Blade is Uddeholm Arne (around 60 HRC), handle is cherry wood with black leather spacers and fully hidden pin design. OAL length is 290 mm. Let me know how you like it. Thanks for reading!
  20. I've been recently contemplating on building a high temp salt bath myself. BaCl is out of question for me, so when searching for a good formula, it just came to my mind to use borax. I have no experience with this, but no one seems to use it as a heat treating salt. Why is that?
  21. Our progress is slow, but steady. After all, I managed to fix most of the bugs of my grinder and we're through a busy weekend with Peter, the other guy from the crew. The original tip of my blade became too thin, so I had to chop it off. Now it's a tanto tip... On the other hand, I had a hard time grinding the recursive edge, especially the plunges. Any tips on that? Anyway, I wrote a new blog post about the latest updates, if anyone is interested: https://cerberuscutlery.wordpress.com/2014/12/15/mp-monkey-on-the-grindstone/
  22. Although this topic is doesn't see much updates lately, we are actually making progress. If you're curious about how business to business purchases are made the hungarian way, check it out on our blog: https://cerberuscutlery.wordpress.com/2014/12/01/mp-never-trust-your-suppliers/
  23. Doug, thanks for the reply, I decided to go with the chisel grind. It’s been a while since the last post, so I think it’s high time to shake things up. From now on, this thread is going to be more show and tell, so feel free to move it to the appropriate section. Two of the three blade blanks arrived a couple days ago. It was a wild ride (more about that on the blog), but at last we made our supplier send a decent cut. In the meantime, I finished my mini belt grinder, so nothing held us back from a well spent weekend. Since Peter didn’t get his blade blank in time, only Matt and I travelled to my shop to deal with the rough grinding and abuse my new custom mini grinder for three days non-stop. I still have some issues with belt tracking, but I’m satisfied with its overall performance, not to mention that it’s a 60 years old 1kW (~1.5hp) motor working there. The thing could still be touched with bare hand after two hours of constant heavy duty work. I only got to rough out the profile and drill the holes on the tang of the big blade besides running a couple blades on the 36 grit belt. Still, the results were close to a marvel after several years of hand filing. I can’t wait until next weekend! I also narrowed the big blade towards its point. It’s still a bit tip heavy to my taste, but now it’s much better. So much for careful prototyping… Anyway, Matt dispossessed the grinder most of the time, so he made it to 120 grit with his kukri-ish blade. Since I still don’t have a large enough contact wheel, he ran the concave section of the blade on the table. This proved to be a bad idea – the surface was full of grooves by the time he finished. By then, it was time to clean the shop and head back to Budapest. It was hard work, but we had a good time. To all the kukri experts out there, how do you grind the concave section?
  24. Thank you all for the feedback. I can't really argue with the critics, Peter and I took the plunge with the design without the aim to improve any traditional design. We respect traditional knives but wanted to make it our way anyway. My experience is when I cut myself a stick, it is hard to fashion the ends with the same chopper. That's why I put a concave chisel ground section at the base. The protrusion at the point is supposed to enable a firm grip to use the knife like a draw knife. All of these however are just assumptions that I'll have to try out on the finished piece. Jerrod, thanks for the kind words. I make blueprints on a daily basis as an engineer, but I still have a long way to go with hand drawing. This kind of feedback makes me feel that it is worth the effort. Anyway, I don't have any experience with chisel edges. Is it good or bad? Why can't they be seen more on knives?
  25. This is an ongoing project that I and two of my friends work on and intend to finish by next march. Since it is currently in the design phase, I post the topic here. The concept of the whole project arouse in a pub where we decided to make our version of war knives. However, instead of making a single design together through endless debates and bitter compromises, we agreed that everyone should materialize his own thoughts and see what happens. To be honest, we are not sure what we will use these blades for when we are done, but the way is what really matters for us here. Once again, the aim was to create an interesting fighting/survival chopper. And the results are: My humble design: https://cerberuscutlery.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/knife_1.jpg Peter's (one friend) concept: https://cerberuscutlery.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/kes_2.jpg Matt's (other friend) solution: https://cerberuscutlery.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/10486863_10201970616378965_1732100062_n2.jpg I cannot resize the pics properly, that's why I'm providing links. Anyway, if anyone is interested in the process, more can be read on our blog: http://cerberuscutlery.wordpress.com/ We already have a lot of work in this, so I'm eager to read any feedback. Also, feel free to ask any questions, I'll do my best to make everything clear. Thanks for reading!
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