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Guy Newcomer

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Portland, Oregon
  • Interests
    My wife, my hearth, my forge, and then...
    cooking, kung-fu, gardening, renovation, whiskey,
    steampunkery, history, melville, american literature,
    and pretty much anything else crafty and interesting....
  1. do you have a web site?

  2. Geoff, Thanks! I am quenching in water. From what I've read, it's pretty key to control for the mineral content, and thus I blame my success (so far) on using distilled or rainwater. I think I'm going to move towards oil, but I was hoping I could get away without needing big tanks of oil sitting around the shop of quenches. I'm not really worried about fire as much as costs and mess (kicking over a quench tank, for example). What oils might you recommend? Is household stuff like canola oil suitable for 10XXs, or should I be sequestering my pennies for a five gallon jug of Quenching
  3. Matt, Thanks for clearing up the normalization / grain size + quench cycle question. Much appreciated. Any others want to weigh in regarding how hot the blade is when you're done quenching (I'm thinking simple carbon steels here)?
  4. A few questions spawned by a disastrous water-quench of a 1095 kitchen knife (I know, a recipe for failure given the thin blade, but hey, they're quick to forge and grind, so what the heck?) For the real ferromancers out there: A: What I think I understand: Normalization prior to heat treatment with the 10XX series = good. Three cycles just over critical and then back to air cool to below a black heat. This is to reduce stresses in the steel and tighten the grain. My question is: I've noticed "over-normalization" being linked to bringing the hardenability up to high in various disc
  5. Beautiful fit between the bolster & the blade - nicely done.
  6. Pretty sweet - I think my favorite bit is the mouthpiece. The way it's spiral inlet for the wood is so unusual. I feel like it's a wonderful display of the unique strengths of what I assume is your cast-in-place procedure for these fittings - there's likely no way to make that mouthpiece by means other than casting in place, and that's pretty baddass. Super authentic feel - it seems likely that someone coming upon your hawk would assume it was a well cared for antique. Captivating! Cheers, Guy (edited for typos)
  7. I'm fine with the fiery bit, but my lovely wife has only banned 2 things from my possession: motorcycles and facial hair. Motorcycles are dangerous facial hair is apparently only allowed for her dad. Which is somewhat okay since my facial hair growing skills are also not very impressive. So, if I ever get there, it would have to be an aura-beard.
  8. Thanks Jake! I'll take a look at Jim's tutorial too, but that's a pretty clear explanation. Definitely going to have a go at it.
  9. Jake, That's awesome! The detail in the shrike is great. I've been following all these beautiful tsuba being carved around here from Charles Wu and Jim Kelso & others. Usually they are working in materials I'm not really ready for (gold inlay, etc.) so it's really exciting to see something similar in copper. Would you be willing to explain a bit about your process for seating the inlay? Is it a mechanical key by hammering the copper into an undercut relief pocket in the steel, or do you solder it in as well? It looks like a lot of fun. Cheers, Guy
  10. Thanks for the kind words, folks. Richard, I did indeed have a big grin on my face. There might or might not have also been some skipping. Alan, re. the inscription: It's kind of an odd hang-up I have. I don't feel comfortable using languages of which I have no understanding. Language is one of our most precious & potent cultural skills, and is the currency of our communication, art, and love. I guess I feel it would be arrogant of me to try to name something in Mandarin. I'm not exactly an Old English whiz, either, but it's at least a language I've studied some and can claim
  11. I actually don't trust a project that didn't draw blood while getting made. A little melodramatic, I know, but a blade that hasn't bit you is a blade that's gonna... I really like your twisted guard - that style is one of my favorites! Cheers, Guy
  12. Thank you Sadid! I really wasn't counting, and I'm not sure I want to know. I would guestimate, once I cleared major process roadblocks, that I probably put 80-100 hours in, including its cedar box and some other accessories (all the little do-dads can sure add fiddly time to a project. I'm a very crude woodworker at best, so a simple unfinished box was a head-scratcher. That doesn't include research and design time, which was probably another 20 or so.
  13. Hello! I've been a long time lurker and have benefited greatly from the shared experiences and incredible knowledge and craft present in these forums. Thanks to all for that. I feel it's time for me to give a little back! I got bitten by the iron & fire bug in high school, piecing together a rude forge & knifemaking setup from pieces of forgotten equipment in the school shop. However, college and starting a career intervened, and I was shopless for the better part of a decade. I made jewelry & small knives out of a chest under my bunk to keep the fire-bug alive... Last ye
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