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cwatson1982

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  1. best one so far! I am in love with w2
  2. Here are a couple of mine. I'm not quite where I want to be but am slowly getting there through trial and error, lots and lots of error! both are 1075
  3. Got this guy all done - thanks for the suggestions on keeping or re-heat treating:
  4. Just got started polishing and etching tonight. I am stopping here until I have some better light tomorrow but I think it will turn out pretty good if I can get enough contrast. I was happy that I even got a hamon on the back edge.
  5. The saw spine looks like dragon scales from the top (what is what I was going for) it was all done with a bunch of different files over a couple of days. That said - I think I am going to keep it as is and polish it up. It's the first time I have gotten hitatsura? so I might as well. I will post some pics when it is all done - though it might be a while since I have some orders to fill.
  6. I switched over from furnace cement to satanite for clay coating and haven't quite become used to the stuff yet. After a quick once over with a 120 grit belt and an etch in FCL I got this thing. There is a lot of activity connecting the "bubbles" that sort of look like ashii What say you guys, re-heat treat or keep it as is? it's a bit close to the edge in that one spot but It's so unique I want to keep it. I triple normalized at descending heats and soaked at 1485 for about 20 minutes before quench, Do you think it was too hot or not hot enough? (I am heat treating in a BIG digitally controlled pottery kiln so the thermocouple reading probably isn't exact for the entire inside of the kiln).
  7. It's stock removal. I wish I could forge something like that! some day maybe. The steel is from Aldo and happened across two different batches. I stopped normalizing the steel I got from him after testing across batches (breaking heat treated blades apart) showed no visual difference in grain size between the stress relieved ones and the normalized ones. I am probably going to go back to normalizing bigger blades just for insurance. I guess 1095 has been known to crack post quench if it doesn't get tempered immediately. Both of these cracked roughly 5 minutes after they were cool enough to touch so I think I am going to build a smaller oven to stick next to my kiln so that I can go directly from the quench to tempering.
  8. Pics of the knife and of the crack which goes all the way through to about the same height on the other side. Edit: I etched it after it cracked to see if I could spot any more
  9. I haven't posted here in a while but thought this would be the place to ask for advice. I have been running parks 50 quench oil for about 8 months now and just recently the last two large blades I have made have cracked on their way from the quench to the tempering oven. Both were 1095 and over 17 inches long, one 1/4 inch the other 3/16ths, clay coated, edges left about .05 thick pre heat treat. Stress relieved at 1200 for an hour then Austenitized at 1480 with a 30 minute soak time in a digitally controlled kiln. Anyone else had issues with parks cracking things? I can't for the life of me figure out what is going on since this is the exact same procedure I have used for months with no issues. I like the hamons it gives but these were both 500-600$ blades and a weeks worth of work each. I am getting tempted to go back to canola oil or start using 1075 again for large stuff. Anything I can check? I keep wracking my brain and can't come up with anything that I am doing differently.
  10. Alright, did some sanding since someone had painted it. It's marked Peter Wright Patent, 1 0 10 with solid wrought around the 0, no england mark and a small A in the center near the base.
  11. I ended up picking it up today, I'll have to do a bit of rust removal to see the markings on the side but it had a good ring, flat face with a little chipping along the edges and gave me ~75% or so rebound with the bearing test. The anvil belonged to the guys father who passed away. He has an immense amount of old cool stuff I wish I could afford! Cincinnati toolmaster mill with powerfeed, a metric crapton of tooling for it including some nice old rotary vices (one measured something like 16 inches in diameter) and a nice metal cutting bandsaw (I'll probably pick that one up from him soon!). I'll snap some photos of it when it's light outside but I am guessing it's a hair over 100lbs.
  12. Thanks a lot guys. I am going to take a look at it today. 100$ is what he is asking for it so I am really hoping it checks out!
  13. cwatson1982

    Anvil Help

    I'm not sure if this is the right forum area to ask but I found an anvil locally for a very good price and need some help identifying it. I am a stock removal guy and would like to get in to forging soon. Anything I should test for other than rebound? I can't tell from the pic if it is bowed in the center but the work surface looks fairly good I think. The guy says it weighs about 100lbs and is old but other than the attached pic that's all the info he has. Thanks a lot in advance for any help given!
  14. 1/4 inch 1080, differentially heat treated. hollow ground, bead blasted, etched and oiled. OAL is about 9.5 inches, both blades are around 4.5 inches (one is longer than the other). The finger hole is 1". These are basically bladed knuckles with handles and were alot of fun to make/test. 150$ shipped, each.
  15. Thanks! They really are a lot of fun to use, we butchered a lot of 3 inch sound proofing foam with them along with a half dozen cardboard boxes or so It's roughly 2.5 inches from the spine to the edge of the blade at its widest, the hole is 1" if that gives some perspective.
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