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jackdog20

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  1. I have just finished a new kitchen knife and in the past I have used a gloss sealer over the surface of the handle for protection. But now I have begun to question whether this is necessary. The knife is obviously going to be used in the presence of water. On this blade I have used stabilized box elder and a black paper micarta spacer. In the past I would buff the blade and then apply the sealer so there is already a sheen on the handle. And if applying the sealer is necessary could someone give me a few tips on how to apply the sealer without streaks. Any advise would be most appreciated.
  2. The material was dyed blue maple burl and it was realy cool buffing it and seeing the grain for the first time. Got it at arizona ironwood.com
  3. finished used a salt bath and i am very happy with the results. Its my first damascus and first full tang knife.
  4. I need a way to find the temp in my salt pots other than just by eye and I think the best way is by thermocouple. I was wondering what would be the best thermometer and probe set up or if it’s even possible. Sorry if i just used all the wrong vocab. thanks in advance.
  5. i did a sample and i had to turn my forge up to 20 psi to get up to where the 52100 would weld I had the pattern going 15n20 1084 52100. I haven’t tried to heat treat yet but i think ill use my salt tanks and go a little hotter because I heard that the chromium pins the grains for higher temperatures while heat treating.
  6. Is there a way to heat treat Damascus with 52100, 15n20, and 1084? I saw this combination idea on another forum but didn’t know if it was actually possible. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
  7. I think you can play with settings in Google sketchup to make it look more like a cad program ive had to use it at school and it can be pretty accurate.
  8. OK i just did the thermal cycleing again just to be sure and used ashe to anneal. thanks for the advise.
  9. I im making a small 1095 knife for a friend and I did the usual thermal cycles of heating and cooling. I then put the blade in to the already hot forge at about 1500 degrees. The problem is that the forge was still very hot and kept the blade at that temp for at least 5 to 10 minutes. I am wondering if in that period of time at that temperature if I just undid all of my cycles and caused the grains to grow again. any advise would be greatly appreciated.
  10. thanks guys i think i will try all three at some point and ill let you know which one i like.
  11. I have D2, L6, and 1095 stock in my shop which one of those should i use to make gravers? And if not any of those what should i try to find?
  12. so is the idea that i quench the blade and then put the steel in WHAT EVER i find for about 6-9 hours?
  13. i think im ok on the forging part but is there a way i could do a cryo quench in my shop with something like dry ice or does it require something else.
  14. I have been researching D2 tool steel to see if i could forge a couple knives out, and saw that the common heat treatment for stock removal D2 evolved a sub zero bath for something like 10 hours. I was wondering if this was necessary or if it would take away some of its benefits.
  15. ok thanks guys. i think ill just stick with 1095 and l6 or 15n20. for the sake of my arm.
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