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Robert Burns

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Everything posted by Robert Burns

  1. It's been quite some time since I have posted anything new. I made this one in collaboration with a friend, Luke Dellmyer, we went with an east meets west theme. This was a true collaboration with us working side by side working on each part together. The blade is just under 11 inches long and 2.2.5 inches wide, the hibaki is silver/copper mokume, the guard is blued mild steel with bronze dots inlayed on each side, the spacer is a piece of mosaic damascus, ivory g10 for the handle, and a domed bronze pin. Well thanks for looking and any questions are always welcome.
  2. This is such a great thread. The first knife is when I started back in 2010: and the second is one that I made I believe four years ago of which I am still very proud. The last knife is one of my most recent but personally most significant.
  3. Thank you everyone for your comments. Joshua that's a very cool concept. I would love to see that if you have photos. You are correct there are six hidden pins within the handle plus the visible pin.
  4. Ledus (Lay-dus: Latvian for ice) This bowie was a commission that was inspired by my La Brea Bowie from a few years ago. I think the new one came out quite well, what do you think? Specs: Blade Length: 12 inches Overall Length: 17.5 inches Guard, Spacer, and Frame: Shibuichi Liners: silver Pin: silver Handle: stabilized blue maple burl For those of you more knowledgeable on knife history I am trying to find out if anyone has used shibuichi to make a frame on a bowie before. The frame, guard, and spacer were all carved in wax and cast. I d
  5. I thought I might share a recent collaboration I did with Matthew Berry. If you are unfamiliar with his work he makes absolutely wonderful European swords and other historical blades. Matt and I wanted to do something that was totally outside of either of our wheel houses and I think it came together beautifully. I was responsible for the blade with a tight Turkish twist damascus, Matt did the the all of the bronze work and gem setting, and I did the final shaping and finishing on the fossil ivory handle. What do you think? -Robert
  6. Thanks Doug, the handle is Minnesota birch burl, a birch bark spacer, and water buffalo horn for the rest.
  7. Thanks guys for all of the kind comments. Gary, this is 1084/15n20 done with a coffee etch.
  8. It's been forever since I posted, but I am still forging. I wanted to share my first attempt at a mosaic pattern. I have two more large bowies I was able to get out of the billet, but this was the first knife I forged from that bar of steel. What do you think?
  9. Thanks for all of the kind comments guys, over all I'm pretty happy with how it came together and how all the textures worked. What wasn't fun was when I was working on the scales and had to use double the ivory because I was a moron ;P
  10. I thought I might share a recent build of mine, this has been a side project for the past month or so in between paid work. Let me know what you think! Specs: Overall length 18 inches Blade: wrought iron over 1084/15n20 damascus Hardware and pins: bronze Handle: fossil mammoth ivory This is off to get a Paul Long sheath here shortly. What do you think? Thanks for looking!
  11. Geoff, nice photos, I' curious about the push dagger construction for how the blade attaches to the handle. Is it a through tang?
  12. For those of you that followed the build I wanted to share the final photos that just came in today. Thanks for looking! And the other side of the handle: Thank you everyone for following along on this build and Happy Halloween!
  13. Well the final photos just got in from Caleb and I think he really did the piece justice. Here she is finally done and just in time for Halloween. And the other side of the handle: Thank you everyone for following along on this build and Happy Halloween!
  14. Here is one I just finished up. This is part of my "relic" series of knives and features damascus and brass. Pricing includes sheath. Please send a private message for additional questions. First I'll take it gets it. Specs: Steel: 1084/15n20 Blade length: 3.75" Blade width: 1.125 Handle length: 4.5" Height between blade and end of handle: 2.25" Sheath: horizontal carry Construction: The tang of the push dagger is peened directly into the brass handle and the damascus is riveted to the brass via two 1/8 inch thick brass rivets. Accepted pa
  15. Thanks for the comment Alan, it actually sparked much of the design of this knife. I was at a local gem show looking for fossil ivory and came across a handful of these beautiful stones, once purchase I ran home to begin designing. Now today is nearly the last day in a mountain of work to get this knife done. In my eagerness to finish I did not document the process as well as I could have, but hopefully it will make sense. First thing I had to do was stitch the sheath together and trim the edges. Now with the structural sheath done I have to start on the frog
  16. Thanks guys I appreciate the comments, I'm glad you are enjoying the thread. Here is today's progress. Today was mostly about the sheath but I also wanted to finish darkening the background of the carving with the charcoal and oil mixture I talked about earlier. It wasn't getting the results I wanted (I believe because the ivory is so dense or the charcoal powder wasn't fine enough) so I opted for a leather dye and this worked very well. Then I had to practice stone setting. The plan is to place some blood red T-rex shin bone as the broach for the sheath. This i
  17. Thanks for the comment Garry I'm glad you are enjoying the build. Today I finished up the carving. First we have the carving before it was scraped. I used charcoal and oil to darken the background. Then after a bit of scraping I added the touch of the dragon by very carefully heating the ivory to color the carving. I tested this method on several scraps before doing it on the actual knife and so long as you control your temperatures I have not noticed any ill effects to the ivory. And aside from a bit of cleaning and the odd touch up here
  18. Thanks guys! Working in Matt's shop was a great experience, I learned a ton! But there is so much more to learn! Now to the most recent update. First I had to begin cleaning up the casting with files, wire wheels, and carbide tools. I am trying to get a heavily aged effect with this piece so sharp precise lines are kind of the enemy. Unfortunately I got caught up in the process and did not document the refining process well, the above photo is the casting after running over it with a wire wheel.. But after getting the desired finish it was time to distress and pati
  19. This type of lost wax casting was 100% new for me. I have done sand casting in the past but other than that it was all new. Due to my ignorance I opted for going to a more experienced friend's shop, if you don't know Matt Berry you should as his viking work is awesome and his castings are superb! Matt very kindly welcomed me into his shop and walked me through the whole process. The first thing we had to do was sprue up the waxes I had made. The sprue will create the channel for the molten metal to flow through. Then we placed them in the flasks th
  20. Thanks Scott! This is all flying by the seat of my pants as I have no clue what I am doing with carving or wax, but it will hopefully turn out alright. Here is another small update on the knife. I am still working on the wax to have everything ready for casting this week or early next week. All of the fittings will be cast from shibuichi (an alloy that is approximately 25% sillver and the remainder is copper). To start off the center of the guard is finally roughed to shape. Then the decorative elements are carved in and the fossil ivory handle is finally fit up.
  21. Thanks Garry! Another small update on the wax carving, the guard should be complete by the end of today, and the butt cap and finial should be done by Friday, then on to casting. But here is where the guard stands after refining the one side and starting the other. Then carving mostly done on the other side: Lastly I seated the guard up further on the knife and now need to tweak and correct certain aspects on the center of the guard. Thanks for looking! -Robert
  22. Just a small update today. So when planning for this knife I knew I wanted to use shibuchi for the guard and but plate (in the same way I did on the Van Helsing Bowie), but with this one being more refined and complicated I decided to try my hand at lost wax. This is my first time carving wax and it really has been fun beginning to learn the process, definitely something I want to do more of in the future. First I made the rough cuts in the wax and roughly fit the tang. I also cut my wax too short on the back part of the guard, but as I learned that is very easy to fix. First th
  23. C Craft, The nickel line is there to separate the edge and back bars to give the knife an overall more bold appearance.
  24. Catalin, Thank you so much for the correction and additional information! As I am making the knife I am learning more about your country's history. My plan is to replicate the Iron Crown of Romania for the top but that holds the knife together.
  25. Thanks guys, I was able to finish the carving today and do the etch. Overall I am pretty pleased with the pattern and look on the blade. Here is the finished carving: And then the etch:
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