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Robert Burns

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Everything posted by Robert Burns

  1. A good thread, I look forward to seeing everyone's work. I normally make a wooden template to check against as I forge. This one turned out fairly close.
  2. Jacob, I agree. I think this is probably more in order.
  3. Well after completing the La Brea Bowie back in February I have been looking for my next skill building project, something as challenging to me as the La Brea Bowie but in a different way. After much thinking and scrapping of designs I cam up with the idea of doing my first full integral in a complex damascus. I am thinking of doing a multi-bar with black ash burl and six silver pins. There is still something slightly off with the pin placement so if anyone here has any suggestions of change I am all ears. Let me know what you think! I'm thinking for the damascus to make two high laye
  4. Definitely heat treat before adding the liner, you'll avoid a lot of headaches that way.
  5. So the purpose of heat treating the ring is a) to make the steel have more contrast and to create added toughness. Your ring looks good Gabriel, my first one came out on the thin side as well, just part of the learning curve. Fitting the silver can be a touch tricky until you get used to it.
  6. Gabriel, I use the high temp silver solder and handy flux plus map torch.
  7. Here is another tutorial by my buddy Craig at Barefoot Forge on how he makes his. As far as I know they are the only ones out there. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dHCfD4mWkDc Gabriel, I wouldn't go higher layer on a ring as it get's very difficult to discern the pattern from a distance. Something like a 20 layer twist (a very tight twist) looks beautiful.
  8. Thank you everyone for the comments, and sorry for the delay in responding, but here is the latest update. All eight of the rings should be finished today and I thought I would show an alternate insert technique for the liner. Just to preface one is not better than the other just different looks. So here is the beveling I was talking about earlier, it is a bit more significant than this photo makes it appear. Then you add the liner. Note when you pressure fit the liner it should be tight enough that when you insert the precious metal the steel should shave small slivers off of it
  9. John, awesome it will be a ton of fun! Kenneth, I have not down a ring with a silver rail yet, but I am going to be doing some early this summer. From my understanding it is a similar process but it uses a thinner guage of metal for the liner and requires the use of two cupping tools.
  10. Thanks for the comments everyone, I do have a ring that needs to be a VERY specific thickness in this batch so I can show you some tricks for getting everything looking nice without just free handing it the way I do. Austin, I think I got in a rush covering this (I'll point it out more specifically next week) but when I fit the liner I slightly convex the inside of the steel blank so that each edge "rounds out" toward the external face of the ring, Almost like counter sinking. Then once the silver has been pressure fit, then peened it acts like a rivet and grips the sides of the ring. You can
  11. Emiliano, the only thing that is soldered on the ring is the liner to close it as a ring, but certainly having a tight fit as I described is secure enough. After everything has been brought flush it is time to trim off the excess and reveal the ring underneath. Normally I will use a cut off disc to trim the corners and save the cutoffs to be made into scrapmascus later on. Then the corners are knocked down and the outside is buffed. (I finish the outside at 320 grit on the grinder and then scotchbrite, then buffing wheel. Then I etch the ring for 45 minutes, then neutrali
  12. Thanks for the comments guys, I totally slipped a step though. Prior to inserting the liner make sure your ring blank is heat treated. Standard heat treat for 1084/15n20 damascus but tempered to blue instead of straw. Then insert the liner and proceed.
  13. I ended up having to come home from my shop for a little bit to wait for a package and figured I might as well post the progress so far for today. I will post the rest tomorrow morning. So when we last left off the silver had just been prepped for cutting and soldering, and the ring blanks had been rough sized. In case you missed it in my last post it is important to just bring your ring blank up to the final ring size FIRST then measure your liner's external diameter BEFORE over sizing it, otherwise you might make your blank too big and then have to start all over. But here are the prepp
  14. Thanks for the comments guys! John, if I see you in Michigan this spring we can totally work together and make you one! Dan, I was going to get to that in my next post so you beat me to it. At the first stage of sizing the steel part of the ring is brought to a bit over the final ring size, but not by much perhaps 1/8 of a size over. Once I make the liner then I take an exact measurement of the liner's external diameter and then size up the steel to accommodate it.
  15. Okay guys, just a small update from today. This ring production would be so much easier if I had a mill or a lathe, but hey work with what you have right? After annealing yesterday the ring blanks were drilled and shaped to their preliminary ring size, in this case sizes 7,8,9,10, 10 1/4, 11, 12, and size 13 so eight rings in all. For other patterns of damascus drifting the ring to size is a better option for conserving material, but in this case I find the pattern can become too distorted to be desirable hence the drilling to size. Also my silver arrived! I use 18 gauge fine silver f
  16. Kenneth, These ring blanks are all 1 1/4" square and 1/4 inch thick. These are going to end up being bands that are about 3/16 wide when finished, the customer just desired more narrow bands in this case, but a 1 1/4 x 1 1/4" square will accommodate all ring sizes from 1-15.
  17. Sorry for the delay everyone, I forgot my camera at the shop. Here is the next round of photos: After welding the jellyroll together it is drawn out into a thirty inch long bar and twisted in ten inch sections: Then each section is cut free from the bar. And each mating surface is made clean and square: Then tacked together and prepped for the final weld: The resulting bar had enough material for eight rings: Here is a quick peak at the pattern inside: Right now the blanks have been annealing over night and I can start to turn them into
  18. Well after a long delay I am finally starting a thread showing how I make my damascus rings. There are many ways to approach this technique and a lot of it depends on the desired look you want to achieve. In this case I will be showing a series of rings with a multi- jelly roll pattern (this is my most requested pattern for rings) each with a silver liner. Now there are several forum members that also make fantastic rings, such as J. Arthur Loose. Only a few people are doing stainless damascus rings Jul being one of them so I will defer any questions in that area to him if he wishes to co
  19. Joshua, The picture in my avatar is me working at a forging press with head phones on in a dark corner of Dave Dellagardelles shop versus me clean lol.
  20. This knife was done as a collaboration between myself and Jason Kraus of North Star Forge. I forged, heat treated, polished, and did the leather work while Jason did the grinding, base polishing, and handle work. This knife is pretty unique as it bears both of our makers marks. Please PM me any additional questions Specs: Steel: W2 Blade Length: 9 3/4 inches Handle Length: 5 inches Over all Length: 14 3/4 inches Handle material: Top grade stabilized curly Koa from Burl Source with Northern Minnesota Birch bark spacers, and nickel silver pins. Payment Options: Paypal, Mone
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